ROYT

I have a 1/18 model of my LS400, and I resprayed it the same colour and repainted the interior as well. How sad is that?!

If you have 2 fans visible at the front, these rarely come on unless the aircon is on, stuck in traffic etc., look in front of the engine for the big fluid coupled ,not electric fan.

As above,thermostat first and check the engine cooling fan, these have fluid coupling and this may be faulty, not lifting the fan speed.

That would be great if it all was consistent UK wide. I live on a lane, with 30mph printed in 3ft high letters in the road. At rush hour I reckon about 2% of vehicles, apart from the residents, pay any attention to them and at evening rush hour you can see plenty doing 50 to 60mph, these are speeders. Despite complaints, police speed checks are vitually non existent. Most sensible drivers don't condone speeding but there's speeding and just going over the limit, we will be spending more time looking at the speedo than watching the road, a little common sense is needed not a £60 fine for thirty two mph.

Have no idea how much my 94 LS does to the gallon, don't do enough mileage to bother If you are doing 24K a year, the thing to avoid is being stuck in a traffic jam with 8 cylinders using petrol while you aren't going anywhere..........

Manc,try Kurust or similar to kill the rust then prime/paint the area. I've used Waxoyl for years, brilliant for underneath and cavities.....

Been there!.......I was racing along at 38mph, went on the course,it was OK. A lot of stress placed on being more aware and observant, actually seeing more as you drive. Must have been about 20 people there, all ages except no boy racer speeders. Mostly just folk trying to earn their living or going to pick up the kids up from school etc One guy was doing 32 mph!,.... I don't condone speeding but think a little common sense might be applied. They caught me on a road with no houses on it, only seen two pedestrans on it in 12 months . So keep a tighter grip of your speed or they'll have you, nice little earner at 60 a quid go.

Agree with WIM above, just a lot of different members, annoying for me are people who ask for info but never give an update if the info was useful. Thereby helping themselves but offer no help to others....or is it me thats the paranoid one?

Welcome! and suggest check auto fluid level is spot on!!

There is a seal kit available from Lexus for the pump. or try the 'O' ring between the body and the reservoir...

Also check distributor caps for tracking,damp inside etc

the slide pin guide is spot on!! Many owners are blaming stuck pistons when it's the slide pins at fault. I have had the little rubber seal on the pin swell up so tight, the pins had to be hammered out. This fault prevented the slideing action and was holding the pad against the disc, giving the impression that the piston was stuck.

It's normal, mine is the same . It should quickly drop down to about 700 rpm, when the weather is warm..

I always start with the farthest away from the master cyl. Not sure if it makes any difference,but worth a try..

For my two pennorth I would bleed them all again into a jar. Don't re-use the fluid and don't shake the new fluid up. If it's still not right, back to the master cylinder.

Going back to greybeards query as to why the compressor won't run when no errors are showing, this is normal when it needs regassing etc. The compressor is prevented from running, presuably to prevent damage when the a/c system is empty. mine was the same, works fine after regas. Tip: Get a proper aircon firm to do it, the quantities of refrigerent are critical and the system needs evacuating before new refrigerant is added.[ There is a small amount of special oil in there too, but this is unlikely to need attention.] it's not a five minute job, allow a couple of hours...

Don't know about the companies, but Blueprint parts are OK...

Hello and welcome.......look on Ebay and the USA LOC club for the LCD panel or have it done for you. Trawl past posts for info.......Chris Vince is the man. Upper and lower arms, are yours faulty?...Or do you just need them checked........they don't fail every five minutes.......!

First check if the diff has oil in it,up to the level.[usually the filler hole] Unless it's a diff. bearing, they usually whine either on drive or overrun Jack the car up and spin each wheel to see if any run rough, to confirm it's not a wheel bearing If you are certain it's the diff. try an oil change usually, EP90. Look in the old oil for any metal fragments etc. if it still makes grinding noise, check your bank balance...

You could try swapping the coils over to see if the fault changes to the other bank, if it doesn't I would think that means the coils are OK, and you can look elsewhere.....

Did you do the most obvious thing and make sure the fluid level is absolutely perfect? Trans fluid levels are critical on all makes of automatic.....

Start with the cheapest,can't see why the old method shouldn't work. Open a bleed screw, then get your mate to push the brake pedal to the floor and hold it down, then nip the screw back up, BEFORE he releases the pedal. Repeat TILL NO AIR comes out all round, I always start with the brake with the longest run of pipe, but that may be just me. Or using a tube on the nippleand expel the fluid into a jar. Don't re-use and DO NOT shake the new fluid up!

Also check the inhibitor switch, that stops you starting the car in 'drive'.

Wow! Suggest start at the basics, check the spark plugs and HT cables first to see if thiese are causing the stutterring, which might just be misfiring..... I would have thought any disconnected vacuum hoses would cause the engine to idle too fast...... If this was my car I would disconnect everything to do with LPG until the car runs right on petrol.

If '96 same as my '94, look on top and behind the splash guards for the discs. At the same time check your pads for wear as that is the whole point of the warning light! Plug on top has two wires going to small block in disc pad. If there is a break in any of the wires, on any of the four wheels ,the light will come on. Note this is for series two LS, yours may be different, someone else will answer if they are!!