ROYT

Don't forget if you have the aircon on [if it's working OK] there is an automatic 'idle speed up' to about 800 rpm, 650 is about the norm.

Go for the IRIDIUM, they should do it all..

Thanks for replying. In normal circumstances I would agree. However the brake pipe corrosion was an MOT advisory. In less than 400 miles it is now leaking and classed as dangerous as it could pop at any time, which is why it is being done on Tuesday. This has only come to light because of the other checks being done. If I had decided to do this at my leisure then I hate to think. It only goes to show that sometimes a second opinion can be worthwhile. I do know one thing though. I think I need a crash course in Lexus mechanics. Does anyone know where I can get a manual for an LS400 Mk2? Haynes don't do one apparently. :D From Lexus, there's three books Vol1/Vol2 and electric diagrams..expect to pay about £150.....!

I would pay the extra £200 to be 22 again, in fact i would pay Matts insurance every year to be 22 again ME TOO!!

Instrument panel flickering when cold is a classic fault, follow previous recomendations or contact LOC member Chris Vince

Like it!

If the engine is not misfiring or running rough, leave the leads to a later date. Use a second hand steering rack from a breaker. Brake piping is cheap,full length replacement obviously better but there are joins in it along the, car flexible hoses, etc.so a competent repair should be OK. It's not all a disaster yet!

Yes and ball joints..

It's like mine '94 series two registered '95 The switch on the gear lever is in a different place on gen. one models etc.

Welcome, bags of help on here and on the USA club

Absolutely right! Car makers are making all cars so complex requiring £1000 testing equipment [probably cost a fiver to make in China],and are very reluctant to give any tech. info. to owners. When my LS 400 is worn out I will be looking for an old classic, going back to 'new set of points, new plugs, oil and filter, job done!!

Try cleaning the idle air control valve, if you haven't fixed the fault yet....

As a stab in the dark, check the inhibitor switch for the gear lever. [Prevents you starting in DRIVE ETC.]

No clutch! Fluid coupling,make sure your trans fluid is clean ,the right type and exactly the correct level..

As above, try changing the fluid, give it a run, then change it again. Might clear it, before you start dismantling things...

Popular fault is the boot lid seal, have had water in the left side rear. I drilled a hole and made a little drain in case it happens again, then Waxoyled it . Pull out the corner covers under the carpet and check..

HT lead/s?

Based on the smell of burning rubber and the fact it stopped dead, your diagnosis of a failed cambelt sounds correct! Check nothing else has siezed up, w/pump or idler etc to cause it...

Keep looking, it's not a thing to ignore. If fuel consumption rises, look for leaking injectors, any fuel lines rubbing where they run along the body etc.,all the usual things Is the fuel filler cap tight?

Had 3!......... seperated by several years between, pain is unbeleivable, last one I had to wait about an hour before they gave me the morphine. Usually and hopefully you will pass it, apparently we do not drink enough fluids[ I can't drink beer!] So drink plenty!

For a start try to keep the borrowed battery on for a few days! I think despite the tests that it's the battery......don't like the sound of your smoking alternator tho'!!

Aren't we ACE at LOC .........?

As above ,sounds battery cell failed, try another batt.

If you get no joy,find a company who make up and repair hydraulic pipes for heavy machinery,diggers etc. They should be able to make one up for you ,no trouble. A friend of mine had one made up for a Merc. oil cooler and it was cheap conpared to OEM and is still working OK [6 years]