ROYT

Is the fluid coupled engine fan, the big un behind the rad. seized and running at full speed all the time? Is the engine thermostat stuck open?

Is the engine thermostat stuck open allowing the engine to run cool?

Before you start dismantling the dash, check for airlocks in the heater system. Can you hear all the flaps and vents moving inside, when you change the air distribution?

Is your engine temp. normal when hot? If not it may just be the engine thermostat

Could be anything, jack up the rear and rotate all driveshafts,check bearings, prop. shaft couplings etc.

Do you feel happy that it's running on all 8 ? You say you have changed a coil pack, is the other one OK?

If the electrics are good you can just get the mast. Or look on ebay for a car being broken..

Part # 89615-50010 anti knock sensor quantity 2..............Oct 1994- July 1997 LS400 just in case....

Some makes recommend removing the battery cables. Personally, on my Series two, I have never removed the cables when charging and never had a problem. On a scrap series one I keep to rob for some parts I keep this charged the same way to keep the electrics good and so I can move it to wash it. If I forget and it is totally discharged, when I put the charger on the alarm goes off until you turn the key in the ignition. If the radio has had a code put in this will need updating again, otherwise all as normal. Hope my laziness doesn't catch up with me...

Start the engine and put your voltmeter across the battery terminals. Should show approx 12 volts. Get someone to press the accelerator up to about 1400 revs...you should then see 13.8 to 14.2 volts approx., certainly more than 12volts. Get your helper to switch on the headlights and the heated rear screen, it should still show about 13 volts plus showing that the alternator is charging under load. It may not charge at tickover speed. If not as above alternator fault or bad connections......

Agreed, go with Steve first.........if no fix give model year. UCF20.....1997-->? have 1 knock sensor for each bank.

Anti-knock sensor?

andrew1976 is right! incompetance is rife! Modern parts suppliers can't seem to operate if the picture and part number doesn't come up on that computer screen for them I dread to think what would happen if the electricity supply failed for any length of time. We are so reliant on computer technology now, if the power goes off it will be as bad as a war. I'm just hope some of these people don't get jobs at Boeing.........

Before we all rush out to save the planet by buying a lower polluting car,I want to know how much pollution is created by making the new one, and scrapping the old one.

The obvious fair system would be to scrap road tax and put the tax on petrol. Ahah!..but government greed prevails here! Lots of people with cars, don't do much mileage, I'm one of them, so they wouldn't get much tax off me, or the others with Nissan micras and the like. So the so called Road Tax, slyly changed to Car Tax, gives them maximum grab of your hard earned money, giving them the best of both worlds. The excuse now is so called global warming, as it's minus 10c here, with the coldesr winter for 30 years plus I'm going to need a little bit more convincing.

if you do the job yourself, GET SOME SUBSTANTIAL SPRING COMPRESSORS, THE SPRINGS ARE LONG AND STRONG!! [you can hold the strut in a vice, don't squash it, put some lead flashing or similar to line the jaws]

Find where the wires go to the rear screen, switch it on [ignition on]. Set your meter to 20V DC, connect probes to screen connectors, if no reading, swap probes around it won't do any harm. If no reading of 12 volts, check for corrosion, broken wires, bad earth connection, if there IS 12 volts coming to the screen, look for breaks in the element in the screen.

Merry christmas and Happy New year to all!!

At the front of the seat base about 8 inches in from each side there are U shaped thick steel rod pieces that press down into plastic clips. Mine were tight ,you just have to pry them up. The bolts will be then be visible for the back, side ones may have flap over them. you will have to remove lap belt straps in the middle for access. When the bolts are out get help and push both sides of the seat back in together and it will come out without removing the side trim. You can just put something under the parcel shelf to lift it high enough to undo the shocker bolts, no need to remove it. On mine the spring had broken right near the top and we had to do a bit of juggling with the spring compressors to get it all out.

There are three manuals available, Vol !, Vol2 and electrical......expect to pay about £150 Expensive but these are not Haynes manuals and the cost soon recovered, usually on the first job you do yourself!!

The mast has a toothed nylon tail that the motor uses to wind it up and down, sounds like this may be broken. The mast [with its tail] often seen on Ebay. No need to replace the whole motor unit unless you want to get one off a scrapper.

If your brake fluid is topped up, the fault is usually due to a pad wear warning wire broken at one or more wheels. The pad wear warning light comes on if any of these wires are open circuit. Stalling fault often cured by cleaning the throttle body

Are you sure about all switches, rods and cables, no wires knocked off the trans. etc whilst working on the diff. The w/shop manual says 'forward clutch' fault for no drive in D,2 or L'. Means trans strip to check it. Seems odd you had no previous slippage or fault prior to working on the diff. Have another look around the transmission. Is it the same with the O/D switched on or off?

Check the drains are clear on each corner of the screen for a start..

Manic and Steve ,spot on! Also full closure of windows and roof like my wifes old Merc!