ROYT

Three manuals available, 1, 2, and wiring. Expect to pay approx £150, expensive, usually pays for its self pretty quick. Also look up Mitchel repair info USA

If everything brightens up when you rev up, it sounds like the alternator is charging. Some don't charge at idle speed. Try another battery, if you have one bad cell this problem will never go away. If the alternator is not damaged by PS fluid leaking, go for a battery fault first.

There is a kit available with all PS seals etc from Lexus, not too expensive. If the alternator is shot, get recon or breakers yard, make sure it's not full of PS fluid!

Yes 2 of each!

Hope not! Think we've all been there.........!I can remember changing a Citroen CX gearbox on my drive with hardly any tools and expecting to drop selectors during reassembly! Changing rear brake cylinders on a Vauxhall in the snow! nice! Happy days....

It was just the usual copper contacts worn thin, readily available as a kit. I had them already, but decided to fit a new motor 'cos of all the dismantling needed.

Check alternator output with heated rear screen and headlights on. Should show more than 12volts, say 13.4. If it does your battery is duff!

Mine's a'94 so this may not apply but the manual show another test. 1 Disconnect the connector from the GAUGE 2 turn on ignition gauge should read cool. 3 ground SAME CONNECTOR through a 3.4watt bulb 4 switch ignition on, check bulb lights and needle moves toward hot. If not right measure the resistance on the 3 terminals on the gauge,B at 12 o'clock,A at 7 oclock C at 4'oclock connect A-B approx 54 ohms A-C approx 146 ohms B-c approx 200 ohms If values not right change the gauge Worth a look, have no info except parts list for '95

Check for wet carpets, headlining,water in the boot etc. Use aircon to demist it, sounds like water inside somewhere...

If they are the same sort of plugs as the LS, they usually have a clip on the side to press before the plug will pull off.

Re jellybean,'odd for starter to fail at 70k' Agreed, can only assume previous owners, did a lot of short journeys. I think the starter should be twice as big for reliability 'cos of where it's sited!" mines done 220k (ish) and is still fine.... but i was planning on doing my egr pipe soon so would it be an advantage to change starter at same time too? is it really that bad I would while you have it stripped, there is so much to remove to get to it. At the back is a boxed in harness bolted to a crossover water pipe, there is not enough slack in this even when its unbolted and creates another fiddle of a job to work around it.

As you have no replies I'll stick my 2 pennyworth in. Back axles when worn usually whine on 'drive' or 'overrun' I.E may whine all the time with power on or only when 'coasting' When assembled the gears are preloaded to mesh correctly. When they wear they whine. Start by changing the back axle oil usually Hypoid 90 grade and see if this helps.

I saw this but as mine is a '94, have no ideas. If his is OBII would a scan find anything?

http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=62634&st=0&p=692614&fromsearch=1entry692614 Some photos here of my mk2, one bolt gets the sidelight out of the way, 3 bolts for the headlight assembly I had a struggle with the sidelight, it needs come up a bit then forward to pull it out.

Re jellybean,'odd for starter to fail at 70k' Agreed, can only assume previous owners, did a lot of short journeys. I think the starter should be twice as big for reliability 'cos of where it's sited!"

Try a different battery!

I don't think so either, but if they do there will be a queue at that price! I already had parts ro fix mine,but there is so much to dismantle I bought a starter from Lexus in case something else failed and I had to do it all again!

Sender shown on top of engine on the centre left near the front as you stand in front of engine

My '94 LS 400 starter finally refused to engage with the usual contact wear problem. After making a brilliant car Toyota spoiled it by putting the starter in the most stupid place they could. The labour charge for replacing it would now exceed the value of the car, even though it's only done 70 odd thousand miles. So if you are handy with the spanners you have to do it yourself! Everything imaginable is in the way when you try to get to it and after you have removed all the inlet manifold and attached parts you can finally see the motor. In their wisdom they bolted this in with two bolts FROM THE REAR so its damn near impossible to get any spanner on them. I left the EGR pipe in place which didn't help much, but the 2 lower bolts holding this on are too far down to reach from the top and I didn't want to lie on the floor looking for these! Now here are a couple of tips which are the point of this saga,for anyone doing this job Buy a LONG 14mm spanner, the standard length is almost impossible to work with 'cos of things in the way. [Couldn't get any ratchet or swivel head spanner or socket in.] Even with this you are only going to get a 1/4 of a turn on either bolt right to the end, allow more than an hour for each! Faced with the same problem putting them back I devised a cunning plan! When the bolts are out, carefully cut a neat sawcut in the centre of the threaded end and don't leave any burrs on it or mark the threads, make sure the threads are clean. Once you have started the bolts back in you can get a thin screwdriver and WIND THE BOLTS RIGHT IN FROM THE THREADED END. This just leaves final tightening and saves hours of aggravation. Put rags or something in all open cavities, you don't want to drop something in the engine do you! Hope this is some help, it's a lot of dismantling, don't forget to get new gaskets.

Try Ebay ,plenty breaking

Look right at the back of the plenum[ top bit on engine!] it looks like stainless steel, about 12 or 15mm approx diameter. As you face the engine it slopes to the left, 2 bolts at the top 1 part way down 2 at the bottom. nightmare to get to!

Try an oil and filter change first, use a decent quality oil 10w 40 or 20w 50

Keep it to the minimum, its wasting fuel and may send unburnt fuel into your cats which eventually will do them in!

If its tracking as you say, it will certainly cause uneven running. Trace it and check it is not trapped or cut and reroute it if poss.

Start by checking all the fuses, include the ones on side near the accelerator. Put a known good fully charged battery on and try again. The dash light problem is widely covered on this forum,or checkout Chris Vince for repair