ROYT

0238 is for Avensis......don't know if interchangeable...... Look on www.clublexus lots of info and some Bosch equivalents listed....

Your part #'s don't appear on my list, give vin number PM'ed VIN These are the part #'s shown for your model 48530-80156 RH rear-marked 48530-53031 48530-80163 RH rear marked 48530-53041 80163 says 'sedan europe' 80156 just says 'sedan' Both for GXE10---1/7/2003->31/7/2005 Nothing else is said about them Hope this helps..

Your part #'s don't appear on my list, give vin number

Can't believe nobody replied to say how helpful this post would be

I have checked my diff and the numbers on it are F20SZ 3-2 Does anyone know what these mean..?? I have found the only one available in the uk and it is off a 2003 sc430 the numbers are F20SZ 3-1 Will this be ok or am i wasting my time..?? Thanks for all your help Stick with the original 3-2. If 3-1 is a different gear ratio ie rotation speed of the diff. in relation to engine revs performance and or fuel consumption will differ.

I replaced the starter recently on my MK2 LS. Prepare yourself for a slow job, theres lots of dismantling before you even get to the starter. A tip you will appreciate when you get to the motor bolts..buy a long 14mm spanner, the standard length spanner is virtually impossible to work with because of things in the way. No chance with socket,ratchet ring, or swivel head spanner. the bolt heads are against the bulkhead[firewall if you prefer that name] and you are lucky to get a half turn on them. Here is something I did to to speed up refitting them. When the bolts are out clean them up so they are immaculate. Cut a neat accurate screwdriver slot in the threaded end. Once you have got the bolts started back in,you can use a thin screwdriver on the theaded end and 'wind' them back in fully and then just final tighten. You will only appreciate this after struggling to get them out! This job is easier if you are 6ft tall or more as you have to reach over the wing and engine to work[ or sit on top!. Get new gaskets and carefully plug all open engine intakes etc, dropping a bolt down into the engine will.....well just imagine!

Cheers....luck more than judgement tho! Glad you are getting there!!

Search for Chris Vince on this forum.......

Have you tried Saga?

Need the money for the oil spill......??

If its the same as earlier LS's the a/c compressor wont run if the refrigerant has leaked away. Have it checked and recharged by a specialist, not any quick fix recharge. The quantities of coolant and oil are critical,and the system will need evacuating etc.

'Difficult to start cold' gives these options in the w/shop manual. water temp sensor circuit intake air temp. circuit injector circuit cold start injector circuit ISC valve circuit fuel system circuit fuel quality vacuum leakage plugs/distributor engine ECT ECU Scary list but not every thing can be faulty! If it wont start or idles rough, could be the cold start injector faulty/blocked/disconnected If the car will idle smoothly but not rev up this is often lack of fuel pressure. This could be the fuel pump or some restriction in supply,say fuel filter blocked. These are cheap enough and worth a try but I think you will need to have a fuel line pressure check to eliminate the pump. You could try removing the plugs one bank at a time to find which are misfiring, if all on one side swap that coil will be faulty A code check may save time and money...

Kinda sounds like the alternator, if the engine was running but your voltage was low, but check its not a bad connection / earth before getting a replacement alternator. Sounds like you need a good auto electrician Check your alternator output with the headlights and heated rear window on. Put voltmeter across battery terminals and increase revs to say 1500rpm, if voltmeter reads 13volts or more the alt. is OK

You could try fishing around with one of the commercially available pick up tools. One with a good magnet on the end.

Do the boot loom check and fix if needed, this fault causes weird problemss. If it were my car I would go for the crank sensor first.

Was the roof open when it happened?, if so its' just to remind you...

Sometimes need doing more than once to eliminate all air. Don't shake the fluid up before use,this will aerate it!!

Are you sure the caps are seated properly?

If the system is the same as series two[upto 1994], you can just short them together to put out the light and then get new wires. Or like me just check the pads visually every few months.

Also check wires on the pad wear system for bad connections.

Just make sure you fit them to absolutely clean hubs, so that they run perfectly true.

Mine's a 2001 'Y'. My guess is the paint around the holes where the trim attaches is thin/missing/damaged and that's where the rust is coming from. Since that trim has never been off, it must have been a build problem so I wonder if more owners will see this? When I took it in, they took photo's to send to the warranty people and they said that they might send an assessor to confirm it hadn't been incorrectly repaired. The guy from the service department did a good check for overspray, but couldn't find any so said it should go through fine. It took about 4 or 5 weeks to process and they said it could be more if they insist on sending an assessor. The sticking point was that the warranty people didn't want to pay for a new plastic trim, but the service guy said they often break when they are taken off. I think they'll put a claim in for it if it does break. Good luck with yours! :D KEITH. There is no rust on my '94 Ls400 and at LS430 prices there shoud be none on yours

Welcome to rip iff Britain, I notice the MP's got a sly rise to cover all these increased taxes. Just to cheer everybody up I read an article in a car magazine Of an old car rally that passed through Ethiopia. Petrol there was 16 US cents a litre, how much is that?

If you fancy side markers then just run a wire from your sidelights...

Ebay...?