ROYT

If you are handy, the simple deterrent I use, is to find the fire feeding the fuel pump, cut it and insert a hidden switch. Just need to remember to operate it! Not much use if you are all electric but there must be some way to cut the 'switch on' wire, physically or electronically.

Does anybody think any tax will go down if we were not paying £7 million a week to keep fake asylum seekers in 4 star hotels?

OK. I still think it's the main battery cables that are suspect, 1. bad earths as most people think. 2. Possible internal/ external corrosion of either lead, creating intermittent connection. Worth a look for damp in the fuse box[s] but most of starting system is usually separate. Let us know what the end result is!

I don't quite follow your post, you say as soon as I ' switched the charger on', at that point do you mean 'switched the ignition on' If the charger is connected to the battery it will supply power to the car for limited systems. The ignition should be off until you remove the charger, indeed I always take the key out if I have to charge the battery, until the charger is removed. You say more and more things start to work, if the battery is charged everything should be 'alive and come on straight away not one after another. Look at the fuses carefully, see if any look like they are running hot or are corroded.

How are you re- charging the battery? Are you convinced the battery really is fully charged. Once you are driving the alternator should maintain the battery, unless you are doing very short journeys and it doesn't get time to replace the starting drain. After leaving the car overnight does it crank over 'briskly' or poorly? If it's dead flat and you are sure it's not a faulty battery ,borrow one and if that goes flat you know it's a parasitic drain.

If the battery is draining ,parasitic draw as previously suggested, also check the glove compartment light goes off, vanity mirror lights and any footwell courtesy lights etc along with boot light you have tested already. You say all goes dead, if it won't crank and you know the battery is fully charged and everything is completely dead you are back to the main thick battery cables. There must be a break in the wire somewhere or a bad earth connection.

Here is my 2cents worth Fit new battery cable ends, deleting the wing nuts. Remove all chassis earths, clean them and the metal where they are attached Any earths to the engine do the same. Look at high amp fuses for corrosion or bad connections Look everywhere for signs of powdery green corrosion If everything goes completely off it's likely to be the main thick cables. When it's running OK, wiggle the thick cables and any you think suspect to check for an intermittent break or poor connection

The plan appears to be that private car ownership is to be phased out entirely, except for the 'very important' people and the very rich. Despite the fact the car is very low down on the pollution scale compared to air travel, ships and industry. The net zero brigade ignore the true facts. The 'stop oil' protesters never explain how they will get food supplies to supermarkets etc. or how they travelled to their protest site, or how people will get work. 20mph is only the start, next it will be tolls to drive on the road, despite the ever increasing car tax. Satellite spying on you and your car is already in the pipeline. If you get that donkey and cart, remember if the donkey makes a mess in the road you will be taxed on it!

More Looney Tunes ideas, to get you off the road. The usual nonsense about saving the planet etc. with less pollution. OK drive at 20 mph, you will have to use a lower gear which means higher revs.= MORE pollution more fuel, longer journey times = MORE pollution. The UK cannot stop global warming. As usual we get punished while the rest of the world do what they like. The clue is is in the words GLOBAL WARMING. Race to electric cars, create pollution to make one and to dispose of your old one. No proper infrastructure in place for them and the way things are going no electricity either. Go on Youtube and watch one burn, toxic gasses and very difficult to put out. Did anyone see the figures for poisonous emissions given off when the volcano was erupting in Spain, why wasn't Greta Thunberg out there complaining about it? The looney left are pushing us backwards, better get that donkey and cart ordered...

I have a good working unit off my '93. You can have for a reasonable price but you will have to come and get it! If it's a decent day I will fit it with you! Sorry, not prepared to post or courier it

Thanks Steve, that would be great.

MALC Think risking one off a breaker might be worth it.

Steve's magic formula worked, I've not had this problem on mine. If it did get a problem I would try HOWPLUM's suggestion. LOC wins again. Still want that wiring book ,anybody, any luck Steve cheers Roy

Hi Steve Thanks, will try that little persuader, owner is away , so can't check if the speedo was working before. This ECU fault was an instant no spark failure, lucky the owner not doing 70mph on the motorway, with no hard shoulder. Leaking cap. corroded away one leg and part of the circuit track.

Hi everyone,long time no post! Has anyone got this book for sale, I'm trying to fix a 1993/4 series two for a friend. This was a crank no start and replacing the caps. in the ECU fixed it but there is no speedo. I have the series one wiring book but all the ECU plugs are different. Trying to confirm speed sensor fault [trying to avoid crawling under the car, getting too old!], instrument panel fault or further ECU problems.

1994 Electrical Wiring Diagram Has anyone got this wiring manual for sale not "pub.No EWD080Y"

What is the problem with the car?

Look on Ebay 'LS400 breaking'

You think you've got problems, after a trip to France I had to top up the screenwash...

I have done this job myself and it is a long job.[93/4 Ls 400] Bag up bolts etc and mark where from, don't try and rush it. I suggest replacing the timing belt tensioner as well.

CVT designed to fail, check how it works!

Re the query ,'will the car be easier to steal' The alarm 'security' system still works as normal, flashiing led etc. This is switched on by the door key as well as the remote. I did disconnect the 'remote off' switch left of steering wheel, so I don't know if this would have caused a problem if left switched on. The remote uses the same electrical arrangement as operating the door key 'but remotely' There is provision to flash the indicators also by the remote, haven't looked at this yet.

When I got my LS [I've only had it About 15 years] there was no remote locking key. I have just used the door key for locking and unlocking. Now I am in lockdown, so decided to have go at an aftermarket Ebay remote system. These are available from about a tenner up,depending if you wanted to convert a manual lockiing system to remote which has more components, you don't need that just the simple one If anyone is interested [ can't be many of us with series two now!], I will list how it's done. It's not too difficult, carpet needs pulling back right hand side of footwell and does not affect the alarm system. [Why have I got two line spacing?]

Try a different battery, I've had new batteries that are faulty and always buy brand quality. Also as previously suggested check all earths, [or grounds if you prefer] and battery terminals are clean and tight

Regarding co2 and polution from the last remaining petrol cars,a previous writer is correct, that the green lobby will do their best to campaign against them. They are being paid to do so. Nobody seems to have seen a map of the UK, we are expected to lead the world to remove polution at more expense to UK residents, when huge countries just do what they like to suit themselves. The climate changes, it always has, let China.India,the US etc fix it if they think they can and give us a break. Have the antipolution brigade measured the polution from the numerous volcano eruptions? How many cars would it take match that? If you want less carbon, stop deforestation globally. [good luck with that]