ROYT

If it misfires, have a look at the plugs first, make sure it's firing on all eight Check HT leads for damage or tracking, some times you can see this in the dark with engine running. Look for any flashing.

Glad she made it! Rear discs not too bad,make sure you slacken the parking brake adjustment right off, so the disc pulls off clear of the shoes. Readjust when new discs on

I think series one cars had two electric fans, you might get the whole shroud complete with fans from Benfur [this club] or Ebay..

Contact Benfur on this club or Ebay?

Spray a bit of WD40 on the belt whilst it is running,if it goes quiet, it's probably just the belt Check it for cracks and wear. If its still making a noise, check all the things it's driving!

On my '94 I removed the whole front strut, and worked on a bench to replace the broken spring This was more convenient and made the whole job fairly reasonable to do. If you try it, get [or borrow ]a proper spring compressor, don't try it with any mickey mouse quality ones. You can see how thick they are...

Ahhh...now you've hit on something, I had my hand out of the window & could feel a lot of excess/abnormal heat coming from somewhere below, being in the car I could not determine ecactly where but for reasons I could not pin I did not think it was the exhaust but now you mention trans fluid thats starting to paint a wider picture of things going on at the time, is the trans box below the trans stick? that area would account for the abnormal heat I felt coming up from somewhere, I also wonder if theres a final boost on the fan because at the end of the day it was fractionaly below the red & not over, what would have happended if I had not started turning it on when we moved a few metres & off wwhen that came to a standstill again I dont know, wish I knew how long it had been like that before I noticed it. Do you think I should have turned AC off, as I said that was coolish but not cold as it normaly is when turned to cold Theoretically, I would have thought leaving the aircon with it's fan or fans [there is only one on my '94] running would help to cool things. There would be additional air flow over everything, but this is speculation on my part...

If you are creeping along under the circumstances you describe, I would imagine the trans fluid would be very hot indeed. This is cooled by the radiator so you have combined heat above average at the radiator itself The fluid coupled fan would be at its highest speed acording to engine speed. If it's not at peek performance this would aggravate the problem. It has to pull air through the a/c radiator first.

When I got a loud bang like that when just reversing out of my drive, a rear spring had broken right at the top. Missed it first inspection, couldn't see it.

Those are more or less the removal instructions from the w/shop manual. I think side gear is something lost in translation. It boils down to : Remove the wheel etc. to expose the hub etc. Paint matchmarks on the driveshaft where it joins the flange at the diff. Remove six bolts and two washers here and disconnect it. Remove the large nut at the wheel end of the shaft, tap the shaft back to release it[soft face hammer] Support the shaft inboard end to prevent excessive bending of the outboard joint. Beware not to damage seals and boots. You may have to remove the rings holding up the tailpipe and support it with wire.NOTE: The fixing bolts are not all the same, the two bolts with a ridge on must be directly opposite to each other when fitted. torque 850 kg-cm/61ft-lb/83n-m Torque for large nut 3,500 kg-cm/253 ft-lb/343 N-m Hope all this makes sense

I've not done this job but it looks like you have to remove the driveshaft. Sounds scary but only says to remove the end nut,then remove six bolts from other end, when its free tap the font end of the shaft to release it. Must put match marks[paint] on drive shaft and side gearshaft Hold shaft to prevent excessive bending.

Check the cooling fan for the engine is running at high speed when hot, fluid coupling may be faulty. Were the fan/s running for the aircon? Thermostat OK, coolant level Ok radiator not blocked???

Blind guess here re the alarm ,I think the door pillar switches are connected to the alarm. Did you disturb one, are any sticking? Is your car battery good, I got lots of alarm problems, because of a failing battery.

As all the above, try a diffenent known good battery

Re the bushes, you could move the rear wheels quite a bit when tightening the wheel nuts, indicating that the whole axle moved. Strangely enough this didn't show much when driving but looked really bad. I don't 'leather it' so maybe that's why. The steering was just less precise, more vague According to my parts list no match is shown after 1994

I did my axle carrier bushes with some from the USA, it's no too bad a job to do. Try BENFUR on this forum, he has parts from cars he breaks.

Yes, agreed, well worth a try if the wiring is all good

Right, wonderful info, Ign on, O/D off switch on ("OD off" light on on dash), linked TE1 and E1, codes are (flashing engine block light):- 25 26 31 not what I want, that's air fuel ratio lean, rich, and air flow meter signal. back out to the car... Got it this time, with the o/d on (button in) I get 63 and 67 from the flashing o/d light I have a txt file of codes, 63- open or short on no.2 solenoid, I think its sticking, sometimes seems to jump from 1st to 3rd when driving off 67- OD direct clutch speed sensor signal malfunction Could you confirm if these are correct, and suggest what to do? Thanks, Ian Yes these are the codes, I would go over all the connections to the trans. first. If'short' or 'open' might be just corroded or bad connections or damaged wiring. After that it's looking at sticking or faulty solenoids etc. As an aside are you sure the trans fluid is at the correct level?

According to the w/shop manual 'there is a malfunction code stored in the ECU memory' Turn ignition on, but do not start engine Put o/drive switch on..MUST be on. Connect terminals Te1 and E1 of the TDCL or 'check' connector read the code indicated by the number of times the O/D OFF light blinks It should blink 2 times a second. if there is more than one fault the lower numbered code is displayed first. There are 8 codes listed, get the code then post again.

Get the WD40 out and give the hub a spray, leave it a few minutes ad try again, wheel may need a tap [ or a kick!] and it should come off.

Trying to make my '94 last forever, I had a poke around the sills for any access holes to inject some Waxoyl. Under the kick plates [pull up from inside the car] on each doorstep, there are three holes large enough to poke the lance in and give them a squirt. There are more holes with blanking plugs at each corner of the bonnet, give them a treat as well.I did all arches and pipes visible underneath as well. [keep it off the exhaust]. Put something under the car to catch any drips that may leak out, especially if it's a hot day.

If there are no leaks, [ no loss of brake fluid] if the pedal is soft there is air in the system If you bleed it again use new fluid,don't shake it up!

You might not need the puller, mine was loose enough once the nut is loose. That's was the hard bit, the nut wss really tight. I changed my belt at 61000, not done water pump. The whole job was slow for me due to the amount of dismantling.

I had a similar problem with the sensor for the windshield wiper fluid - it took me a very long time to fill it up but even overflowing it was still showing the empty light. Lexus suggested replacing the sensor (a little over £100 just for the sensor so I passed up the opportunity). Several months later, for no apparent reason it fixed itself! Of course I do realize that with the fuel gauge it is quite critical. Personally I would fill up the tank to the brim and this might just move the float off. (yes, there is the matter of the cost - if really low figure somewhere between £80-£90, ouch!) If it doesn't I would guesstimate about 300 mls (to be on the safe side) on a full tank. To bear in mind that if you were running on empty £30 would not make a huge difference. No doubt, one of the more technically-minded guys on here might have better advice. Welcome to the LOC and enjoy the ride! Try some Redex in the tank,say half the small retail bottle..won't do any harm, might just free the float....

Did you check that cooling fan? The big one not the electric ones...