ROYT

For my two pennorth, the thermostat is my prime suspect...

Directly behind the keyhole is a small switch, well made but light construction, this went faulty on mine and the car would not lock etc. I got one off a scrap car but the switch may repair by cleaning it up inside, mine did but I already had the replacement. For door card, remove all screws,handle rim etc, pull at the bottom carefully to unclip it, then the card MUST BE LIFTED UP to release it. Go slowly to avoid breaking clips etc.

Don't know about %, but I've almost got a full house now: Flickery speedo/revcounter needles, blacked out LCDs, PAS leak (and not from the O-ring as I've changed that AND put a load of instant gasket around the area). Just need the radio light to fail now I guess... Still, all things considered, that's not bad for a +200K motor. A member on here can fix your dash, there is an overhaul kit available for the p/s pump a couple of hundred quid should fix it...a friend of mine just paid £132 to have a bulb replaced on his Merc. ! Get it fixed you know you want to.. Oooh, where can I get the PAS pump refurb kit? Maurice hasn't had any pumps available for ages, and mine is really starting to leak big style. I'm aware of the dash fixes, but until all the lights fail (or flicker), I'm willing to put up with it. Same with the LCD, it's been blacked out since I bought the car, the only annoyance is trying to see the time in the dark. Interestingly, after about 2 hours driving, the LCD usually starts working after a fashion - enough to read at any rate. The thing is, this is a 200,000+ mile car now, it's got a few dents & scratches, the PAS pump is noisy & leaky... the starter motor doesn't turn off when you release the key when its cold (longest overrun time - 5s, luckily, the solenoid is disengaging the gear just fine, it's the motor that doesn't stop), fixing all the issues is going to take time & money. Having just done the timing belt & water pump, I'm kind of committed to keeping it - the only reason I might not is if I upgrade to a Mk4, but while mine remains reliable, I don't see the point. And it's still a hoot to hoof it off a roundabout in the wet for some sideways V8 action :) Gasket kit for p/s is: 04446-50010 all other parts available seperately

Don't know about %, but I've almost got a full house now: Flickery speedo/revcounter needles, blacked out LCDs, PAS leak (and not from the O-ring as I've changed that AND put a load of instant gasket around the area). Just need the radio light to fail now I guess... Still, all things considered, that's not bad for a +200K motor. A member on here can fix your dash, there is an overhaul kit available for the p/s pump a couple of hundred quid should fix it...a friend of mine just paid £132 to have a bulb replaced on his Merc. ! Get it fixed you know you want to..

You need the code from the trans. self diagnostic system. Think the P codes are general diagnostic codes.

On my series two, according to the w/shop manual the solenoids are accessable after removal of the trans oil pan. You need to try and isolate which is faulty first, use the built in diagnostic system. code 46 open or short circuit in #4 solenoid valve code 62 open or short in #1. code 63 open or short in #2. code 64 open or short in #3. there are other codes for speed sensor fault and kick down switch.

All very nice if the same fault does not happen the day after you fitted it all!!

hi Steve 2006,in your post you said some people cut slots in the end of the starter bolts to aid removal of the starter,[i was one of them!]. This should read to aid refitting the bolts, not removeing them! After removal if the bolts are slotted at the threaded end and are clean they can be 'wound in' with a thin screwdriver. This saved me about 2 hours. Also a longer than normal spanner is a graet help as ' things are in your way with anormal one! cheers

Did you check yhe trans fluid level and its condition?

Make sure coolant level topped up to max. If still cool suggest faulty thermostat.....

A sign of the times.... Hope thing soon improve for you!!

This is for '94 series two. Before you replace the switch check this: loosen the neutral start switch bolt and set the shift lever to to the N position There is a line on the cover Align the groove and the line and then tighten the bolt the groove is on the lower hexagonal below the fixing bolt, tighten 9ft.llb[13 n.m] This is the basic neutral switch setting I think you may have to remove part of the exhaust to replace the switch

Try a different insurance company, if you have a new MOT the car should be insurable without all that trouble.

Worth a try but I think you would have heard it pinking when you floor it, if it was that?

Hi Dale V This issue was covered recently by myself and another Member in the LS400 general discussion section under "strut rods and bushes" I fitted the bushings to the lower arm and the trailing arm hubside on my Mark 1 and they are perfect replacements with no hassles, unfortunatly the other member had issues because the rear suspension was changed on the Models produced after 94. I cannot comment futher on the issues as I did not have them ,but I think if you read the post and check out the workshop tip that accompanies the post it might help you to make a decision. Google ADUS 505 and look on 'club Lexus'

Also check the USA owners club, look for 'bushings' USA name Try 'Superflex' and 'Polybush'

If it clicks when trying to start it's 99% sure to be the starter contacts. Eventually they wont connect and it's stuck where you are. Long slow job [contacts are available], do it now before winter! Having to move the gear lever about to get a connection is likely to be the inhibitor switch as you describe.

I,ve had Blueprint discs on my Mk 2 LS for a couple of years and never had a scrap of trouble. Whoever fits them must clean up the hub properly so they run perfectly true. At the same time the calipers must be checked for even pressure: ie not partially siezed on either side, pins not sticking etc.

After checking all from the above posts,if no better, try a fuel line pressure check...

Haven't read every single post on this, so if youv'e tried this sorry to repeat it. Did you check that when you floor the accelerator, that the throttle really opens to its fullest amount? i.e wide open

I think you can get bushes,but the ball joint is part of the arm. I'll stand correction on this 'cos I'm not sure for '95.

Although I don't have same car, when I had weird alarm problems on my LS, it all went away when I fitted a new car battery.

Another senior moment. Mike Not quite a senior moment! According to the w/shop manual, removal of the bumper is needed to access all the fixing bolts for the wing!

We could have a whip round.....

The handbrake adjustment is not difficult, just fiddly. previous post with instruction is good, just follow it, turn the disc until you can see the adjuster through the hole provided, cheap LED torch helps to find it.