johnatg

Here is a wiring diagram of the mirror heaters and a location diagram for the relay. (It ain't where you expect it to be!) mirror heater.pdf BodyL-R.pdf

I don't think you need to replace the dryer unless the system has been open for a while (longer than an hour on a dry day?) You should get the gas extracted by an aircon place (it's illegal to just let it go) Wouldn't the dye be included in the regas? The aircon place will need to fill with Nitrogen first (that will be where the dye is introduced?) to check for leaks then refill with R134a.

I guess a new compressor comes with the correct amount of oil for fitting to a new completely dry system, not a used previously filled system. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

Repeat of my post yesterday in the topic about IS250 breakdown (You need to remove some oil from the new compressor - ie 130to145cc minus the amount left in the old one) At least I think that's what it means! : Ah - I was wrong about visible/measureable oil in the compressor. This is the last step in assembly of the compressor /when fitting a new one. Quote: (from the workshop manual) 3. ADJUST COMPRESSOR OIL When replacing the compressor and magnetic clutch with a new one, gradually discharge the refrigerant gas from the service valve, and drain the following amount of oil from the new compressor and magnetic clutch before installation. Standard: (Oil capacity inside the new compressor and magnetic clutch: 130 + 15 cc (4.6 + 0.51 fl.oz.) ) -(Remaining oil amount in the removed compressor and magnetic clutch) = (Oil amount to be removed from the new compressor when replacing) NOTICE: When checking the compressor oil level, observe the precautions on the cooler removal/installation. If a new compressor and magnetic clutch is installed without removing some oil remaining in the pipes of the vehicle, the oil amount will be too large. This prevents heat exchange in the refrigerant cycle and causes refrigerant failure. If the volume of oil remaining in the removed compressor and magnetic clutch is too small, check for oil leakage. Be sure to use ND-OIL 8 or equivalent for compressor oil. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

Possibly radio interference? It's quite common with fobs with push buttons, but I didn't think it affected the button on the door or back of the handle. I guess no reason why it shouldn't, though.

I think that's probably correct, although I can't find my brochure for 2006 ish cars just now. Note that early cars at least had heated and ventilated seats - I think the ventilation was dropped on at least some later cars. Perhaps more to the point - does the recipient car have the controls (rotary switches) just in front of the gear lever?

Hmm..it must be immobilised and the key fob de-immoblises it. Ergo, the key fob is probably not working. Is there a spare fob? It's easy to change the fob battery - remove the mechanical key, then use the tip of that to prise open the fob - there's a little cut out in the corner where the key goes to insert the tip of the key.

Is the key fob operating correctly? Lock and unlock with the buttons, or lock with the button on the door handle and unlock by touching the back of the door handle? Hold the key fob against the start switch and operate the starter button. Try changing the battery in the key fob - it's a 2032. Are you sure the car battery is connected the correct way round?

Bernie said he's reserved a S4 068 - that's correct! A 9 year old battery doesn't have long for this world - I think it would be a good move to get the new one even if the old can be resurrected for a while.

Ah - I was wrong about visible/measureable oil in the compressor. This is the last step in assembly of the compressor /when fitting a new one. Quote: 3. ADJUST COMPRESSOR OIL When replacing the compressor and magnetic clutch with a new one, gradually discharge the refrigerant gas from the service valve, and drain the following amount of oil from the new compressor and magnetic clutch before installation. Standard: (Oil capacity inside the new compressor and magnetic clutch: 130 + 15 cc (4.6 + 0.51 fl.oz.) ) -(Remaining oil amount in the removed compressor and magnetic clutch) = (Oil amount to be removed from the new compressor when replacing) NOTICE: When checking the compressor oil level, observe the precautions on the cooler removal/installation. If a new compressor and magnetic clutch is installed without removing some oil remaining in the pipes of the vehicle, the oil amount will be too large. This prevents heat exchange in the refrigerant cycle and causes refrigerant failure. If the volume of oil remaining in the removed compressor and magnetic clutch is too small, check for oil leakage. Be sure to use ND-OIL 8 or equivalent for compressor oil.

A/C isn't actually essential - we've only really had it for 20 years or so. You can use the heating as much or little as you like. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

There is no visible or measurable oil in the compressor. It's a mist carried in the gas. I don't have any part number references - someone here pops up with them sometimes. I don't think there will have been any changes in the first five years or so. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

Rarely do mechanical components last forever. Engine oil only lubricates engine internals - not external accessories. If you can unbolt an item without oil leaking out, it's not being lubricated with engine oil. (eg even the water pump). Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

I keep mine on all the time - it keeps the gas, and therefore the lubricant, circulating and well distributed at all times. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

I think you'll be OK with the aircon off. The pulley should spin freely and be disconnected from the seized compressor innards. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

I think the electrical connector is for engaging the pulley clutch. Have you tried switching the aircon off? Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

Try - you should be able to you. But I think it likely that is what will have seized. Try the other pulleys, too. All but the crankshaft should be turnable. I wonder why it took a long crank to start. Could it be that the battery was low - possible question over the alternator?

The RAC are wrong. It's a belt driven unit. Turn the tensioner with a spanner and lock it with a 5mm drill or similar. Slip the belt off. Now try and turn each pulley by hand. One will be hard or impossible to turn. Viola! Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

If the belt is removed, it will start. But don't run it for more than a few seconds or drive it - there'll be no water pump and it will very quickly overheat and do lots of damage. With the belt off, you can find out which of the pulleys (or the units they drive) has seized.

Something driven by the auxiliary belt has failed/seized. A/C compressor? Alternator? Water pump? Tensioner?

Hmm... can't see how that could affect the aircon. Compressors do just fail spontaneously sometimes. Try an aircon specialist rather than Lexus. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

Wouldn't have thought so. Not for the test anyway. What work was needed? Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

A/C compressor seized?

Isn't it in the handbook? 😉

But if it's the IS200d you're talking about (ah just flashed in - it is) - just put a multimeter/voltmeter across the battery terminals with the engine running - should read something over 14 volts. If it's less than 14v, you need to get a full check on the alternator and battery