johnatg

Does that apply to the pre-facelift GS300h, as I see that is also not on the list of cars for the security fix?

Have you checked all the earth points for engine and 12v battery? Make sure all are clean and properly making contact with the body/engine/battery terminal.

An interesting and useful comparison. My car is a GS300h Premier, pre face lift. A couple of nit-picks: My car has RCTA and head-up display. It has 18" wheels and the larger discs - I didn't know 17" wheels wouldn't fit but can well believe it. The sat nav shows speed limits (not always accurately, but my last map update was 2019). I think that improvements/spec changes are incremental and come in randomly during model life, so some pre face lift will have features that others don't and that probably carries on for post face lift as well. I don't think the ride is all that wonderful - I'd agree with the post somewhere that gave it 6/10. I understand that pre facelift cars are Euro V and post are Euro VI My road tax is £25 per annum. I love my car and expect to keep it for many years!

Definitely sell it - it must be much too good to scrap. If you want minimum fuss and no risk you could try carconverter.co.uk I think most of the 'cash for your car' type people won't quote for cars over 15 years old but carconverter say any age. Or there's Autotrader but then you've got potentially quite a lot of hassle (crooks, people not turning up, time wasters, bouncing cheques or bank drafts, etc) Or send it straight to auction - BCA etc. Better all round if it has a MoT (but don't worry about any other tarting up - you're unlikely to recoup the cost)! The battery should just need jumping and you may be able to get the tyre fixed at low cost (borrow a pump?)

I think it depends to an extent on how long you plan to keep the car. If you are going to drive it for say 4 more years or past 150K it might be judicious to change the gearbox oil in the near future. Otherwise probably don't bother. 'Lifetime' fluids don't necessarily mean real lifetime when a car gets older - most manufacturers don't really expect their cars to last more than about 15 years or 150K miles and if you're still driving then you're on your own! Having said that I'm sure there are GS cars around with many more miles without the fluid being changed (as Colin just said whilst I was typing this reply 🙂) IMHO The GS300h uses the L210 transmission - GS450h cars use the L110 transmission. It looks rather easier to change the fluid in the L210 so it shouldn't cost too much. Probably best to have it done by a Lexus dealer or a really experienced indy. You can change most of the fluid in one go - the 'bit at a time' as per Lexus auto transmissions doesn't apply to the CVT boxes.

There's an auto headlight function. Whether the lights are then on high or dip beam depends on the position of the headlight lever (switch). There isn't an auto dip function on my 2014 car - I don't know if there is on facelift Phase 4 GS cars. Personally I hate auto headlights. People depend on them too much, and there are lots of situations where headlights are necessary (or at least desirable) where the auto function doesn't work - eg in fog, rain, low sun etc.

Worthwhile using an aircon 'bomb'. That will at least eliminate the aircon system itself (or should!)

Push the lever forwards - away from you. Then backward for dip. Pull again towards you for main beam flash. If pushing away from you doesn't put main beam on, you have a fault.

Your OBD2 scanner probably only shows engine faults, which you don't have. A failing battery is not an engine fault.

Back to the dealer I guess.

Try resetting the TPMS. Set the pressures you want manually with a compressor (maybe at a garage). Then locate a hard-to-see button under the dash - it's about central and set back from the edge of the dash. There are two buttons there - one is for TPMS and one for AFS. Press and hold the TPMS button until the tyre pressure warning light blinks 3 times (you need to have power on while doing this) See the Owners manual!

Welcome to the Lexus GS OC! It seems that we aren't very familiar with this code. Personally I have no idea, but see here: B2287 Lexus Code Meaning, Causes, Symptoms, & Tech Notes (engine-codes.com) The code indicates a wiring or ECU fault but it could be anywhere. Check for chafing of wires or any obvious damaged areas Good luck!

PS - Hazel - if you have or can get hold of an endoscope you might be able to find a clean cylinder by looking through a plug hole - might save having to remove one cylinder head. But again - I hope it's not that - removing a head on these engines is a real task! Mention of a recent overheating problem doesn't bode well though.

Not if it's going directly from a water passage to a cylinder. You only get water in the oil if there's a leak between an oil passage and a water passage. If there's no leak into an oil passage but there is to a cylinder the water will just get vapourised and blown out of the exhaust. Water leaking into a cylinder actually improves combustion....for a while. My supercharged MX-5 has water injection - it's there to act as an intercooler but it keeps the cylinders nice and clean!

Here's a video of how it's done. But I'm afraid - if you can't see the leak from outside the engine, the coolant is likely to be going inside - ie into a cylinder via a head gasket. Hopefully it's not that.

I think you would have more to worry about than the plug. The seat controls are managed by the main body ECU and operated via CANBUS. I suspect that the higher spec seats will have different settings in the ECU. I could be wrong - all the functions may be built in to the ECU with redundant circuitry and software but I don't think that is the usual Lexus way. They generally set up the ECUs for what is in a specific car type.

The usual cause of this is switching to valet mode by the switch in the glove box. The button should be pushed in - then you should be able to open the boot. But you say you've tried that? Maybe a fuse? I don't understand how the manual key won't work. Could there be something caught up in the lock?

You might be right. But I have to say - the by-pass valve is only there in case the filter gets blocked - I always change the oil and filter every 5K miles so it is very unlikely that the filter will get blocked. I don't think there's anything very precision about the valve mechanism. The plate carrying the filter centre tube pushes down smoothly against the spring. The ally housing looks very well made - smooth casting and sharp lettering where the torque specs are 'embossed'. I think it's an improvement over the plastic original. I think 'made in China' is nowadays a rather dated dismissive. We used to say that about 'Japanese' Those days are long gone.

I don't see why you shouldn't tow a caravan. Just check the weight limits in the Owners manual. The car has adequate power and torque and it would be way better than a Landie or a Rangie.

I've used Mannol 0W-20 but I've switched to 5W30 - it's a compromise between engine protection and fuel consumption. Have you checked how to drain and remove the oil filter? In theory you unscrew the cap with a 3/8" driver extension bar, then insert the plastic spout which comes with the filter. However I've always found that the whole filter unscrews when you try and remove the cap. Anyway, if it doesn't you definitely need the special oil filter removal tool which fits most Lexus and many Toyota models. You need it to replace the filter to the correct torque before replacing the cap to a much lower torque. There isn't room around the filter to use any generic filter removal tool. My drain cap is completely jammed into the filter housing and I risk damaging the plastic filter housing in attempting to unscrew it. I've recently bought a metal (alloy) filter housing to replace the plastic one but I haven't fitted it yet - that will happen at my next oil change - quite a while yet. The torque for the oil drain plug is 30 ftlb, oil filter housing 18 ftlb and the oil filter cap 9 ftlb.

Here's an extract from the Workshop manual. For the usual oil and filter change it takes 4.5 ltr (I find maybe a bit more - up to nearly 5 ltr) From a dry engine (eg after rebuild) it would take 5.9 ltr.

I think I'd try changing the gearbox oil - the whole lot, which I think will mean doing several drain and refills using the drain plug, or remove the sump to get it all out in one go.

Colin Barber explained in the thread posted by Christopher - automatic central locking was reintroduced at the facelift for the Mk 4 GS. Pre-facelift didn't have it. Your car, Robert, is a facelift version.

I'm pretty sure that feature doesn't exist on Phase 4 GS (rather surprisingly). The only mention of automatic door lock control in the Owner's manual is to unlock the doors on impact or if the drivers door being opened or if the gear lever is moved to P unlocks the other doors . Those functions can be set/unset with Techstream. But locking has to be done with the switch on the door or with the mechanical key.

It may be a blown fuse. My manual is a bit vague on where they are located but it looks as though there is a Junction Box in the boot (we are in UK - trunks are in US!), in the general area of the battery. It has about 16 fuses in it, including ones which feed the boot opening functions. There may be more than one fuse. You may need to track down why the fuse has blown (if it has). May be a short - eg a trapped wire somewhere. Sorry I can't be more precise!