johnatg

PS - if you are getting a standard (non-smart) charger, take the battery to someone who can test it for you - maybe there is a local garage with a battery tester open, or most car accessory shops will do it for free, but I guess they are still closed.

Have you ordered a smart charger such as Cetek? Whatever, don't try and charge with the ignition on - for one thing, you shouldn't have the ignition on for long periods without the engine running (it can damage the ignition electronics) and for another it will just take longer to charge the battery. A smart charger should tell you if the battery is retrievable - if it is, just follow the charging instructions. If it isn't buy a new battery and drive the car a few miles at least once a week

12v. It switches on the computers and they can react in odd ways with low volts. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

P0100 is caused by a MAF circuit malfunction. P0010 is a timing issue - between crankshaft and Bank 1 camshaft. They may well be glitches caused by a low battery, as mentioned. I'd suggest you clear them (you should be able to do that with the tool you used to read the codes), then see if they have returned after a few days.

I hadn't seen the episode before - I guess it might be unfair to judge the programme from here - it was recorded 14 years ago - but why, oh why do they have to mess with the cars they are so-called restoring - fitting tacky wheels and gadgets for example - in other episodes Brewer complains about such things fitted to the cars he buys. I make a point of looking up the subsequent MoT history of the cars featured. You would think that the restoration would get the car to a point where it got a clean MoT but no (and it's typical). It did pass in 2006 but with advisories and was clean in 2007. Next MoT was a failure in 2009, with a pass with advisories a month later. And that was it - no more MoT history. And that's pretty typical of WDs cars - they go to a sector of the motoring public who buy a cheap car, spend absolutely nothing on it - not even an oil change - then chuck it away. This LS400 did apparently cover some miles before the chuck away, although the MoT in 2007 said 'no odometer'. Strange! Very often the car featured in the prog does about 3000 miles in about 3-4 years subsequently then disappears. Hardly worth all Edd's efforts! Usually (with exceptions) the 'enthusiast's mint car' doesn't fare much better, either! PS - one lesson (already well known here) from the LS400 - cheap replacement suspension parts are a waste of money - the new upper suspension arms Edd fitted were the subject of advisories, maybe even the MoT failure, by 2009!

It's on Quest - channel 12 - at least where I live (Cheshire) Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

Late 2014. There was some rearrangement of menus - nothing very significant, but I don't use the sat nav much anyway - I generally know where I'm going! For when I do use it I want the maps to be as up-to-date as possible. The update was in two phases - it said it was updating the software, then rather worryingly the screen went black for half a minute or so then came back and it said it was updating the mapping. I posted full details of exactly how to do the update on here somewhere.

I updated mine with the May 2019 version. It updated the software as well as the maps.

Yes - it should be an AGM battery. The original was a Panasonic, which you are unlikely to find in UK. I'd be looking at a Yuasa YBX9027 (but check for yourself that this would be correct,.) Other brands are available.

Mine just comes up with the map on switch-on. Don't know what I did to achieve that - I did update to the latest May 2019 version recently, but I think it did it before.

I don't wish to be pedantic but just for the record Lexus (and Toyota hybrids in general) don't use Lithium batteries - they have NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) batteries. That technology is a bit dated now, but Toyota made it work well and they've stuck with it. NiMH cells have an alkaline electrolyte, usually potassium hydroxide. The positive electrode is nickel hydroxide, and the negative electrode is hydrogen in the form of an interstitial metal hydride. But Lexus have switched to Lithium Ion batteries for the new Lexus UX 300e - the first all-electric one.

I shouldn't have forgotten that - my chauffeured executive grandkids drive me bananas with it! Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

Don't know about the GS450h ones but on the IS250 the official way was to just hit them with a hammer from behind, but there was no space to swing so the easiest way was to lever against the silencers with a crowbar or similar. There were no clamps, just claws. They are probably stainless steel - you can clean them up and repolish with a lot of patience.

Climate control, heated seats and radio - well, you wouldn't want to leave your ambience up to the chauffeur, would you? (Quick reality check - this is the Lexus GS forum - you haven't wandered into the Bentley forum! 😊) (The controls are a feature of Gen 4 GS models)

The value of a cat isn't to reuse it - it depends on the amount of precious metals it contains - eg Rhodium and Palladium. Earler hybrids (eg original Prius models) had more precious metals than they do now. The cat on a Prius is particularly easy to cut off as it is on SUV hybrids. It's rather harder on a GS but not impossible and of course you get several for the price of one on a GS450h (how many cats do they have?). So far we haven't seen reports on here of cats being stolen but it might be just a matter of time.

Do I surmise that you are from or have been in USA but are now in Devon (with a US keyboard with no £ key?) But I'm puzzled by your reference to GS350 which I don't think has been offered in UK - 2015 was pretty much GS300h or GS450h and a few GS200t models If I'm correct about that - what about getting a quote for a GS300h or looking for a slightly older GS450h - saving a few K on price will pay for a lot of extra insurance costs and/or alternatively the GS300h is perfectly adequate for UK roads and will help you keep your licence! The Mazda 6 is a great car - stay away from diesels - but you'd do better with a GS300h. I'd avoid Infinity now - they are withdrawing from Europe and were never that popular so parts etc might get difficult - they never got good press reviews. If you are in USA all bets are off!

Nothing wrong with the battery if it will churn the engine for 10 minutes - but don't do it - it will do the battery and starter motor no good at all. If it doesn't start within 1 minute of churning, it's not going to. Recharge the battery. Possibly your injectors are gummed up. From here, I would buy a can of Bradex Easy Start if you can find somewhere open selling it - some garages will) and inject it into the air intake, preferably beyond the air flow meter. If your sparks are OK, the engine will start - maybe it will only run very briefly. Try about 5 times - with a bit of luck action in the cylinders will unblock the injectors and it will run OK or at least sort of. If it doesn't you may need to remove the injectors and get them cleaned. If it runs roughly get some fuel treatment/injector cleaner - probably do that anyway. You may have no sparks - check by removing a plug and see if it sparks out of the engine. But if it runs get rid of the old fuel, either by driving or draining and put fresh fuel in - a full tank full. If you are going to store again for a long period, buy some fuel stabiliser (Try Sta-Bil - get it on eBay) and drive a short way with it in the fuel.

My service book hadn't been stamped for a couple of services. The dealer I bought it from said he had to send it off to the dealers concerned for stamping, which he duly did - it took about three weeks to do the rounds. Apparently only the dealer which performed the service is allowed to stamp the book - they each have a code number on their stamp..

Batteries generally should be subject to Recond only very infrequently - it involves overchaging to promote gassing, which is supposed to stir up the electrolyte. I can't actually see that working very well with an AGM battery. Setting to AGM doesn't make any difference to the recond function - the battery gets hit with 15.8 v whether or not it's set to AGM. Probably not a great idea. You can leave a smart charger connected indefinitely - chargers like Ctek ones will cycle the battery near full charge and keep it in good condition (stage 8 - Pulse). Stage 5 (Analyse) of the Ctek cycle is supposed to check the battery for holding its charge. A red light should come on if there's a problem - I dunno - I've never tried to recharge a really faulty battery with the Ctek.

Well, there's a simple version (a schematic) of the power steering system and there's a detailed version - both attached! EPS.pdf

I'm not familiar with the particular set up, but in general you shouldn't use stainless steel for suspension bolts - it's not strong enough. All suspension bolts need to be high tensile. Best to buy original manufacturers parts for suspension applications or anywhere that is under stress.

I guess re charging settings you are referring to the CTEK MXS 5.0 instructions - although they have an AGM battery setting, obviously intended to be used for AGM batteries, the instructions also say that the 'Car battery' (alone) setting is suitable for most AGM batteries. So nothing to worry about, although it might be preferable to use the AGM setting. The Panasonic S65D26R battery is AGM - AFAIK all Gen 4, at least, GS cars are fitted with AGM batteries as OEM - most Gen 4 GS that have not had their batteries abused (eg by standing uncharged or regularly being completely discharged) will still be on their original batteries. AGM has nothing to do with stop/start - they are often fitted to cars with the battery in the boot (my MK1 MX-5 had an AGM battery from new and that was 29 years ago, well before stop start technology was common), although it is true that most cars with stop/start are fitted with AGM batteries.

My guess is that it's had a crash and some fool has stuck the numbers on in the wrong order during the repair! Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

No - CTEKS are all smart chargers not fast chargers so you would expect them to be fine - as they are. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

You should connect +ve first (and disconnect it last) in case you accidentally touch the body with the spanner. Harmless if - ve not connected. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk