johnatg

That would probably involve quite a loss. I'd try several oil changes, using engine flush and a new oil filter each time. (I use Comma Engine flush and Mannol oil - I'd suggest using a 0w20 for the first oil change then 5W30 after that.) You can run the car for a few days with Comma flush in the engine. You should get a noticeable improvement and there's a reasonable chance the motor will last for ages. I revived a Mazda 626 like that about 30 years ago - it lasted another 70K miles and I sold it still running well. It had solid crust in the rocker cover, let alone sludge. But there is a danger that stuff will be dislodged and stick in an oil gallery - that might be terminal.

For once I agree completely with Linas. Emission tests on diesels prove nothing. Presence and correct operation of all emissions equipment is key.

From Wikipedia: Statutory speed limit in Japan defaults to 100 km/h (62 mph) for divided national expressways and 60 km/h (37 mph) for any other roads, unless otherwise posted. The highest speed limit in Japan is 120 km/h (75 mph) on some sections of Shin-Tōmei Expressway (E1A) and Tōhoku Expressway (E4). I guess that's why. UK spec CC works at higher speed - don't know how high. Set at indicated 80mph matches the traffic on most fairly uncongested m'ways.

Why would you recommend anyone to buy a Lexus diesel? He could buy a IS250 and have a far more satisfactory experience. It's not just egr problems - there are several other potential problems with any Lexus /Toyota diesel - head gasket, dpf and so on. There's little or no fuel consumption cost advantage, then there's the potential problem of being barred from cities.

Yes - I am in UK and my car is a UK-spec car and it is missing some features. It is definitely a Premier. The options supplied probably changed over time - mine was delivered December 2014.

My GS300h Premier is Meteor Blue with Ivory trim. Really nice combination, but you need to keep the leather clean. Check the options fitted - mine has some things missing - eg Dynamic radar cruise cruise (it has ordinary cruise), Lane keeping assist and various other things described in the Owners Manual. Not sure which were/are usually fitted or were options available in UK

Just drive each window up and down with its own switch on its own door. That will reset them and then they'll all work from the drivers door. Pause for a few seconds at the up/down positions You don't need to do all this draining stuff unless you're working on the airbags or seat belts.

You probably all know this (I did too, but it was still a bit of a 'doh!' moment!) Yesterday my nearside mirror got folded in - I think when I pulled in on a narrow lane to let someone oncoming past. I didn't notice until I had to reverse for another oncoming vehicle. Anyway, I operated the mirror fold switch and mirror function returned to normal. Except - the mirrors then didn't auto fold/unfold on locking/unlocking. I eventually worked out that the 'auto' switch next to the mirror fold switch had been unset. Pressed it to switch back to auto (green light on) and everything worked again. I wonder why the forcible mirror fold back had unset the auto function?

All magic relies on misdirection - illusion and distraction! Wonder which is in play here?

Hi Waleed I'd find it really hard to diagnose your problem from here. Maybe you have a hole in the exhaust - perhaps the pipe in front of one of the silencers. Does the car feel smooth when you drive or is it missing? It could be a semi-blocked fuel injector or a failing plug coil. Do you run on premium petrol? Try a tankful or two of Shell V-Power. That's all I can suggest really. An actual engine problem is unlikely if the car has been properly maintained - oil changes etc. I wouldn't start changing things on spec - you need to find out what is actually causing the noise, even if that means spending money at a Lexus dealer. I have no idea about Lexus indies near London - I'm in Cheshire and rarely visit the smoke and certainly not to get any kind of Lexus service/repair.

But look out for shock absorbers (they get to leak and are expensive), exhaust (they last a long time but get to rust and again expensive, brake calipers, especially rears - they seize but can usually be freed so service rather than replace, but a Lexus dealer will just want to replace - at your expense! Apart from those - just the usual things with any used car at that mileage - but will probably be in much better condition than most makes.

PS - But it's like any other service item - you wouldn't (shouldn't) wait for problems before changing oil, filters, etc. Likewise plugs. But at sensible intervals commensurate with the expected service life of the item.

It's fair enough to consider a plug change any time after 60K although they would probably be OK up to, or even beyond 100K depending on type of car usage. The contention is really about the 6 year recommendation. Lexus dealers try and persuade you to have it done even at much lower mileages. Maybe less so now but they tried to twist my arm at 6 years on my 2014 GS300h - 41K miles. No sir.

The Lexus recommendation to change plugs based on age is ridiculous. These plugs (they are both iridium) are good for 60-100K miles, regardless of age, within reason. It is unlikely that you will face any running issues at less than 100K miles so long as oil change intervals have been adhered to. It's a good moneyspinner for Lexus.

A fair warning and be careful who you buy from. I think Lexus dealers will steer you towards the original recommendation of FK20HBR11 which are considerably more expensive. Denso now specify IKBH20TT. I had no problems with them.

Here's the post - mostly all you need to do it yourself.

The Denso recommendation is Denso IKBH20TT. You can get a set of 6 on Ebay for £40. It's a moderately easy job to do yourself - I wrote a guide on here somewhere. If you get it done by a garage it will be a couple of hours labour.

I'd guess that the original problem was caused by interference which has gone away so your fob worked anyway - eg some equipment has been switched off. Hopefully where you're parked now is not going to suffer from interference. Worth remembering that this can happen though. Anyone got any tips for overcoming such interference if you need to?

Just a heads up on the Eagle F1 Asymmetric 5 - I bought two a couple of weeks ago from Black Circles. Whilst searching I noticed on the Goodyear web site https://www.goodyear.eu/en_gb/consumer/tires/eagle_f1_asymmetric5.EAGF1AS5.html that they are now Run Flat. Don't know if all F1 A5s are or if that is an option. Anyway there was a few days delay in them arriving and when I had them fitted I noticed that they were quite old - made week 27 2020 and this was in May 21. They are not run flat. Also they are no longer listed on the web site as being available in my size 235/45 R 18 - the only people who had them in stock was Black Circles. Run Flats have advantages and disadvantages - be aware of what you are getting. I had them fitted at Black Circles Pit Stop (Tesco service station Handforth) - brilliant! Very small place - two bays, two fully equipped tiny workshops, appointed time, no waiting - took 20 minutes. No hanging around with a queue discussing prices, MoTs, tyre problems etc. All they do is fit tyres you've ordered from Black Circles at the appointed time. They have a rack to hold a few tyres but no stock.

I'm afraid I don't think you'll get anywhere. When I got my car (Lexus used approved) from Lexus Stoke they did an MoT that day (they'd forgotten to do it during pre-sale prep! - it had an MoT certificate but they advertise at least 9 months and it only had 2 to go) and it had two tyre advisories - nearside rear worn close to legal limit and nearside front tread breaking up. I complained to them and to Lexus UK - they both said they only replace tyres if they are down to 1.6mm tread. I was not a happy bunny. Tyre wall cracks are a bit subjective - if they are not deep the tyres are probably legal. Whether you want to drive on them is another matter.

I assume you've tried new batteries in the fobs?

I have a gs300h Premier with AVS and 18" wheels. It has 4 modes - eco, normal. sport and sport+. AVS switches in on sport+. It just makes the ride stiffer / harder and the steering heavier. I rarely use it - it is largely a waste of time unless you really want to hustle along country roads - and who wants to do that - it does not suit the character of the gs300h. And don't get bigger wheels than 18"-the ride will just get harder and more crashy. But the car overall is brilliant if you want a luxury saloon with perfectly adequate performance for today's road conditions . BTW my other car is a supercharged and highly modified MX-5 - so I don't always drive like the old codger I am.

Well, that certainly looks like a failed head gasket. It can't be too bad yet if it takes a while to lose that much pressure - perhaps it's worth trying Bar's Leaks Head Seal Blown Head Gasket repair. Might at least put things on a bit - or delay doing a proper head gaskets job.

You need to reset the windows. Drive each window up and down with its own switch (ie in its own door). Pause for a few seconds at the down point. Then they will all work from the drivers door panel.

About 45 mins. You do need to book. Call on 01606 212326. Directions on the web site https://www.blinkmotorsport.com/ On both occasions I've been there they quickly dropped what they were doing and put my car on the rig.