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johnatg

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johnatg last won the day on March 7 2020

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  • First Name
    John
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    Male
  • Lexus Model
    GS300h Premier
  • Year of Lexus
    2014
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Cheshire
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  1. Indeed it is too much. I do my own servicing - I use the checklists at https://www.kbb.com/lexus/gs/2014/maintenance-schedules/?vehicleid=392660&mileage=100000 - Kelley Blue Book. You can navigate to your car and mileage - GS means GS450h but the schedules apply equally to GS300h. OK they are US service schedules, but hey - these are the same cars - why should the schedules be any different from UK. They give a recommended list for every 5000 miles. PS to see the pages you may need to turn off any ad blocker if you use one - or open the link in something like Brave browser. 10 years = 100000 miles usually - here's Kelley's list for that service: Replace engine oil and oil filter Rotate tires and adjust tire pressures as required Replace air conditioner filter Replace engine coolant Reset maintenance reminder light Check installation of driver's floor mat Inspect wiper blades Visually inspect brake pads, calipers and rotors Road test vehicle US drivers are obsessed with tyre rotation - I try and equalise tyre wear so I replace all tyres at once but I don't do it religiously at set intervals. Do we even have 'maintenance reminder light'? I've never seen it. You can price the consumables needed - oil, oil filter, aircon (cabin/pollen) filter, coolant. I'd say approx £150 for premium brands but you can do it for much less depending on brands used. The rest is Lexus's premium for labour (and posh surroundings and coffee!) If you want the hybrid health check you'd need to pay Lexus as Notamech says. (I think they just do a bit of jiggery pokey with Techstream - it's the warranty they really charge for)
  2. Yes - mine is a Premier. I don't think it has heated/ventilated rear seats - as I remember there were only the two electrical connectors I mentioned. If yours does have seat heating / ventilation, there will just be more or more complex electrical connectors.But really just the same procedure as above.
  3. Most of the manual sites are based on USA model years - and in USA model year 2007 were introduced in 2006. So your 2006 car would be described as 2007. So the manual shown for 2007 will be fine for your 2006 car.
  4. There's a video on YouTube - Car Care Nut - about changing brake fluid. Main points are: 1) It doesn't need doing as often as people think. Do it when needed - see 2). I do it every 3-4 years. 2) Get a tester - you dip it in the master cylinder and lights show if there's too much water in the fluid. Not 100% accurate but a good guide. 3) You don't need Techstream - according to the workshop manual you do, but apparently dealers don't use it for fluid changes. Even if they did, not all the fluid would be flushed from the ABS unit. 4) Use a vacuum extractor to suck the fluid out of each caliper bleed screw in turn, adding fresh fluid to the master cylinder as required. (They are quite cheap on Ebay) 5) Don't use old fluid from your garage. 6) Won't apply to GS250 but for hybrids - DO NOT OPEN THE DRIVER'S DOOR WITH A BLEED SCREW OPEN. So for a GS250 - you could use any trusted garage. For a hybrid, use a dealer/independent who knows what they're doing. I changed my brake fluid just recently following Car Care Nut's instructions to the letter - no problem.
  5. Yep - it's running mega rich. Won't be an exhaust leak - that would give a high lambda reading - too much oxygen in the exhaust. Unlikely to be the lambda sensors - if one or more had failed the car would resort to default values and lambda would be much closer to 1.0 And there'd be fault codes. Could be a spark plug but not very likely, or a coil but I think there would be fault codes with a coil. My money's on a leaking injector. It would be worth checking the spark plugs - 4 are easy and with luck one of them will be sooty. That may indicate where the sticking injector is, (if that's the problem) Live data on Techstream might help. In the normal course of events I'd think to put in injector cleaner (I favour Liqui Moly but plenty of others) and / or Cataclean. But your problem is that you can't legally drive the car on the road (except to a booked Test or repair place)- under the new regime the unexpired part of your old MoT is cancelled once you've got a failed MoT But all conjecture from here. Good luck!
  6. It's a bit of a mystery as to why these are so hard to come by. Dealers replace missing/damaged ones with different types to those originally fitted. I haven't used them but vehicle-clips.com might be useful See here: Lexus Car Trim Clips, Fixings & Fasteners — VehicleClips Part number 9046707201 is claimed to be for Lexus Engine covers and shields. Prices are given in US $ but they are based in Newbury - there a phone number so I guess you could call them and ask for a £ price. Let us know if that works!
  7. There is no significant/visible grease in these joints. The boots are there to protect the joints from dirt etc. You can feel for play if the grip the boot enough to feel the joint, then get someone to turn the steering wheel, just slightly one way and the other.
  8. I'm somewhat amazed. Every car I've worked on steering wise has had replaceable inner track rods, usually known as Ball Joints. But the GS workshop manual says to replace the rack if there's a problem with them. The joints wear - but what really wears them is turning the steering wheel with the car stationary. It puts enormous stress on the joints so don't do it. The car just needs to be creeping forward or back as you turn the wheel to dramatically decrease the stress on the joints. You didn't do it when you had no power steering - ah - that's probably not most of you! 😐
  9. Since most services involve just changing the oil and filter and giving the car a coat of looking at, why don't you just change the oil yourself? That's an awful lot of effort just because the dipstick is a bit hard to read - it's not that impossible if you make sure it's clean and dry when you insert it then look for a difference in reflectivity between the wet and dry parts when you extract it
  10. Ah yes - here's a nerd! Lexus RX Dashboard Warning Lights (All Models 2001 to 2024) - Dashboard Warning Lights
  11. Well, I disagree. Any oil is better than too low, especially when the car is going to get an oil change in a few months time. The Toyota or Lexus garage will use whatever oil to the correct spec is cheapest - I doubt that they will use Toyota branded oil. The service sheet in the workshop manual for the Mk 4 GS300h and GS450h has a whole list of acceptable oils: 0W20 SL (which is the preferred grade) 5W20 SN 5W30 10W30 15W40 SL, SM or SN 20W50 SL, SM or SN I would put in 1/2 a litre of the 5W40 fully synthetic. Once mixed with whatever is in there now the engine won't notice the difference. But it will if it's low on oil. (It's still got 6 litres or so in the sump) Incidentally, isn't the light for low oil pressure, not low oil level?
  12. Had my GS300h Mot'd yesterday - as I was paying and collecting my (pass) certificate, the tester happened to be in the office. He said to me 'That Lexus is a lovely car'. Couldn't agree more! 🙂
  13. It's a cold morning. It's quite possible the wiper blade was frozen to the screen.
  14. If that doesn't work don't try to get the screws from a Lexus dealer - they might sell you a fob but not the screws. Try a model shop - take the screws in and see if they can match them.
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