ChrisIS200SportTTE

That looks normal mate but I found that gauge not to be amazingly accurate lol. It goes up once started I assume.

It always showed there on my 200 and 300 yet the Battery died on both.

IS300's in good condition below 100k and with good history are still fetching £2-4k

Go on autotrader etc... Going rate for any IS200 is £500-£2k.

Anything priced over that either needs to be completely mint or they're dreamers.

I run a IS200/300 buy and sell site mate, see these change hands daily

Hi,

Mine turned out to be a sticking caliper, so a new one is being done and a skim of the disc. Hopefully that will sort it out!

Most common cause of brake judder above 50mph is a sticking calliper on these cars. Not surprised mate lol.

When removing the old you should've removed the negative terminal first(black) and when connecting he new you should connect the negative last.

Start with the black, end with the black

Tell me you disconnected the old Battery and connected the new Battery properly?

Yeah could well be the backing plate^

Good shout 👍

Also whilst the bushes are perished Its impossible to do an alignment. You'll literally drive off the ramp and back up onto the ramp and the alignment would've changed.

eBay... £18 each.

You can't buy OEM bushes from Toyota/Lexus unless you buy the whole arm at £300 per arm!!!

Front as that why it makes the steering wobble and they are notorious for perishing. I've had to replace them on both IS's I've owned because of similar wobbles, misalignment problems.

http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/81690-completly-bushed/

I missed the post where you said it's not calliper, apologies.

If you have accelerated front inner tyre wear and juddering under braking I really would think this'll be you lower control arm bushes.

Don't let Lexus do your alignment. Get WIM to do it. They'll also tell you what's causing the juddering. I really do suspect the bushes.

I'd suspect sticking calliper. A bad alignment shouldn't give serious judder under braking, it can, but if it's bad I wouldn't think it's this. Also if your alignment was so far out it causes steering judder under braking you car would be pulling everywhere and feel like a boat lol! If it's warped discs then you need to find out why the disc(s) warped, a sticking calliper will do this.

A wheel balance issue won't show itself under braking, that will show itself as a steering wobble in a certain speed window, normally 45-60mph.

First thing I would do if I were you would be to take the car for a spirited 15-20 minute drive. As soon as you get home jack the car up. Temperature of the wheels should be a constant, front two slightly warmer than the rears but not hot. If one wheel is very hot suspect a stuck calliper on that wheel. The front wheels should spin freely and easily buy hand when jacked up, If they don't, then it's a stuck calliper. Also when callipers sieze on strongly you can't help but notice the smell of burning brakes as you get out of the car.

Another thing often overlooked that causes judder under braking is the rear lower control arm bushes. If these are perished it'll judder under braking.

With £30k I'd buy the best ISF I could find lol

£3k??

IS200's sell for half that these days mate. Even the best sub 50k milers struggle to reach £3k

Symptoms of a bad wheel bearing... A grinding noise.

Find it hard to believe a dealer wouldn't have checked that if you took it in complaining of a grinding noise tho

Never known a clutch to last that long lol

You must have very good driving habits :)

Maybe it's nothing to do with the DVLA? Maybe it's the fact the seller took a while to post the V5 off or even still hasn't?

Just realised I actually started this thread lol

Oh well I've researched and answered my own question! :)

Snow button....

Decreases the angle of the butterfly in the throttle body. All it means is you have to give it more throttle to go anywhere. The idea being you don't spin the wheels up on snow by just touching the throttle. That's all it does. That's why the mpg gauge changes, by pressing it, it has the same effect as if you took your foot off the accelerator. Some say you can get 2-3mpg more by driving with it on. I don't think so and I've tried lol

The sensor is at the bottom right hand side of the radiator. 👍

Ok fair enough. Apologies.

I've been around these cars a long time. I also admin 2 forums myself of which we have over 8000+ IS200/300/altezza owners from all over the world.

I see failed ball joints at least once a week, normally in the US or another part of the world (IS300 shares exact suspension parts with an IS200) as they don't have MOT's and in theory a ball joint with play should be picked up on an MOT. Due to the design of the ball joint however some mechanics do not test the ball joints for play correctly.

Here's what will happen if your ball joint fails

And yes the orange can be removed. It involves splitting your headlights open by softening the glue up by putting the light unit in the oven.

There's guides everywhere of how to do it. Search this forum or google it

What's the actual fault code?

Sounds like your coolant temp sensor has gone. This means the car can't tell when it's at optimum operating temperature therefore it's unable to go into closed looped fuelling. Your mpg will suffer as it'll run rich because the car thinks the engine is cold. Running rich for a long time can also lead to further problems such as the catalytic converters dying.

Was just pointing out some preventative maintenance that needs doing that will in fact save you money and maybe even your life in the long run.

Oh well ignore me.....

Change your front lower ball joints ASAP. 300,000 miles is well well past they're use by date! Most give up after about 10 years/100k. I've owned an IS200 and IS300 and the first thing I did when I bought them (both cars bought on around 80k) was to replace the front lower ball joins.

Even if no play is picked up in MOT's and Lexus say their 'fine' still change them! So many reports of them giving way with no previous noises or play detected.

I've seen so many of these lower ball joints just give way, ripping the wheel off and taking the front wing with it. And imagine it fails and you're at motorway speeds. Doesn't bear thinking about!

For £90 a pair of genuine OEM ball joints it's not worth the risk is it?