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KentIS300

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Posts posted by KentIS300

  1. I am removing one of these days my vinyl film... from my lights and clean them once I do that I will take pics.

    After reading a bit online.... apparently on HID units the end cap is set to a different marginal distance from the factory HID light bulb, also the angle/distance of the bulb will be different to a factory HID unit compared to a factory Halogen unit.

    It is way easier to modify HID's to H7 reflectors...

    H4 are a pain to control lol ... and results are not good.

  2. OK I have taken some pics

    The quality is not the best and glare is mad.... lol it is only a Nexus camera phone :( ... could not be bothered to take out my proper camera.

    You can see the cut off lines... they do not go above the height required.

    If you retro fit HID bulbs on a standard reflector... it will not be able to manage the exta light "rays" and flood them all over the place, this is what makes the lights more dazzling to the oncoming traffic.

    I think it is the bulb end-cap and the reflector pattern different.

    IMG_20121120_161821.jpg

    IMG_20121120_161823.jpg

    IMG_20121120_161815.jpg

    IMG_20121120_161830.jpg

    IMG_20121120_161656.jpg

    IMG_20121120_161702.jpg

  3. I use fully synthetic oil, and the oil filter ... well it is a pain lol ....

    I changed it from the top I think ....my oil filter strap ... managed to do movements of 10 degrees .... so it is a slow process.

    Make sure you tighten it well as the previous owner when they did oil change did not bother double checking the fliter and it was leaking oil.

    Once I tightened it, then it was OK.

  4. Guys the light pattern is not correct though :( ... I will try and take a wall shot tonight of the beam reflection on the wall.

    This is with the factory HID's (Xenons)

    The pattern of the pictures I see seems a bt flooding all over... but I might be remembering wrong from my car lol ...

    will keep you posted

  5. Well I got it sorted today, I repaired the cabling... and siliconed etc .. .to stop any water going in with the solderings etc. tested with the voltometer and it seemed to be OK. But the car would still have the lights on...

    I think the sensor got damaged internally from the hammering to try to get it unstuck!!

    So I went to the local scrapyard today and they had a Jap Spec IS200 ... got the passenger sensor I needed for £20.

    I went to fit it on my IS300 and it would NOT fit!!! AARRGGGG I got fed up with the thing ... lol there is a place to hold in place the rubber ring on the sensor, my IS is not designed for this type of sensor ... so it will not go in all the way.

    I got my stanley knife and shaved off all this plastic rings and remove the rubber ring seal.

    I installed it ... bolted everything... and presto!!!

    worked like a dream after 100 yards all the lights went off! :D :D :D :D

  6. OK according to the Lexus Manual ... the Black key is the master key.

    The grey key is the Sub Key which will not open the glove box or the boot (trunk).

    Here are the pics of my keys and the manual.

    This Manual is for a 2002 model IS ... so maybe the earlier ones might be different.

    I do not think 2 buttons or 3 buttons make a difference... the master key has black colour and the sub key has grey colour.

    Patrick accoring to the manual if your sub key (grey) does not have buttons or remote function you don't have deadlocking feature on the car?

    IMG_20121007_212726.jpg

    IMG_20121007_213025.jpg

  7. Hello Alex,

    I must admit I have not tried a "cheaper" manufacturer of springs. I had the pro kit installed on my Ford Cougar with some firmer shocks and while firm, it was beautiful comfortable and very stable on high speeds especially around my European trips.

    I now have installed the Eibach Sportline on my IS300, although they are expensive ... and I have installed them with the stock shocks (which have done 100.000miles!) they do ride perfect...even better ride than before I recon, plus the car does not rock right and left like a boat ... as it used to with the factory rock hard springs. While before the suspension felt dry now ... feels perfect like a new car.

    I think Pro Line are around £200.00 .... I would prefer to spend about £50 more and get Eibach rather other make to be honest.

    The SportLine I installed are excessively expensive ... to my eyes at least £320.00, but they give the lowering I was looking for I think around 50mm ...

  8. I installed last week the Eibach sportline can see the pics on my post a couple down from yours.

    There is no bumpy ride with the factory shocks ... and my new Eibach sprintgs, if you put other shocks then it will be harder cannot comment on that though as I did not try it.

    I must confess the suspension feels much nicer now ... than before, more progressive.

    (I think the IS300 SportCross comes with the sport suspension.... I read it somewhere ... although mine looked like an MPV in my eyes !!! lol).

  9. It should just be a straight swap ...

    Regarding the connection of the handbrake it is your call to be honest, I used a relay to bypass it.

    The new Pioneers do work with a simple switch install to "fool" the system. But you need to flick it several times every time you start the ignition ... annoying in my opinion.

    Earthing will not work with new Pioneers either... so you need

    And for definate

    The last post on the thread shows how to install a relay :) Good luck

    http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=78078

  10. OK today I took it to WIM and they have done the all around tracking and steering so it is now all sorted drives like a new car :) :)

    I have camber issues as the car is too low, but I knew about it before I even lower it ... lol it is about 50mm more less lowered hehehehe.

    I need to get the front camber kit before I install new front tyres to replace the old shot ones.

    Any suggestion on camber kits? I assume there is no rear camber kit? only for front?

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