lexus22

Changed the ATF on Saturday, the old oil was blacker than black! Car has done 110k so not mega high mileage. Noticed on top of dipstick there is a label that says the oil should never need to be changed...whats all that about? obviously oil will deterioate over time/mileage as mine has, so tad confused!

Hi Ken, yep mine is still judder free, must have done at least 10k since hub assembly changed.

Changing rear discs had no effect on mine.

I can only think of two factors that would cause damage to a brake disc, 1/ excessive heat (caliper or slide pins problem) 2/ uneven wear ( hub assembly problem) but it appears to be different on each car!

As soon as juddering occurs don't just replace discs (as I stupidly did!), get the run out checked on both discs, as the problem will more often be shown to be on the n/s.

I have no idea if any bushes can cause the disc/hub to run out of true, has anyone had success by changing a bush?

I assume your mechanic has checked the run out on the discs? This will at least confirm if problem is with n/s or o/s.

The second hand hub flange assemblies you had fitted, was this a complete hub assembly inc wheel bearings and arm?

Yes mate, I use EBC greenstuff brake pads, they are for fast road use. Only draw back is the price! Think think it's something like £60 or £70 for the fronts. They work fine with your normal discs, google EBC or greenstuff brakes for a full description.

So had front wheel bearing replaced by garage 18 months ago, done 25k since, bearing went again last week. Garage only give 12 months warranty on parts and wanted me to pay again for parts + labour, but agreed to supply a new bearing (as I was a tad unhappy) free of charge but I still had to pay the labour. According to them, It must be all my fault...going down a big pothole or hitting kerb etc etc, which was all boll##ks as my wheel is unmarked (18 Areo) and it's drivers side.

So why would a bearing go bad after only 18 months and 25k? Didn't think they could be fitted wrong?

Well, running Vreds at the moment which have been a great tyre regards to wet/dry grip and looks good, bad points are "F" on fuel and are very, very noisy. They have done around 25k so getting close to wear bars so looking to change all four now.

Confusing when looking on-line at different tyres and finding some that have "B" fuel "B" grip "68" noise which sounds good, then reading reviews that slate them! Obviously tyres work differently on rear/front wheel drive cars which doesn't help, and the noise rating is for outside the car (who cares) and not noise generated inside! Bloody mine field!!

Had Bridgestones on my old is200 which were a very good tyre but wore out much to quick.

Can anyone recommend tyres for is300, need to be good on grip and fuel and most important must be quite!

Good chance that this problem is the front tyres, swap rear wheels to front and see what happens.

No, Sean it wont. My first dabble with Lexus was a is200 sport with only 35k and the gearbox made the same noise. I thought that there was something wrong with the box so bought a second hand one for £100 and had it fitted which also cost a few hundred, same bloody noise!

I later found out that all these boxes make that whine noise, it's something to do with the way the teeth are cut on the gear cogs although I have no idea why Lexus have done this. Sold the car a few years ago but still have the original gearbox in my garage which as I say, has done about 35k. You are most welcome to it my friend, but it's gonna make the same noise!!

Hi Chris, i got the discs on the front skimmed with an on car lathe. There was an issue with the run out on the NSF hub, NSF disc was badly warped. Mechanic reckoned with my long history it was the best and cheapest thing to try. It will compensate to suit my car. Discs would now not work on any other car. I'll know in about 2k miles i guess. But it is now perfect. Rules out front lower arm bushes and a whole lot of other things but hey they are probably not all100% either.

Tip: Put car on lift and get someone to lightly apply brake, then try and turn the wheels by hand on both sides, you will find what side the issue is.

Others mention the rear caliper noise, don't overly worry about that, the rear caliper is a completely different design to the front. Save your money for the front ones and the recurring nasty issues they have! You will need it!

The entire front brake assembly is a disaster on these cars, Calipers, Pistons, Rubber boots, Sliders, Carriers, soft hub flanges, font lower arms and bushings...need i go on!

Yes please...!

Yeah, that's what leads me to believe something else is at play. I took the discs off last night (one was seriously rusted to the hub and required some percussive maintenance to remove it) and cleaned up them plus the mating surface. I couldn't see much wobble when I tried again- maybe that was it.

However, the brakes haven't changed- still wobbling like mad at 50-60 when braking with any force. I did find the nearside hub doesn't spin freely, so maybe that needs doing too - wheel bearing?

Calipers are here so i'll fit them tonight, I have a feeling this will solve most of the problems.

Yeah, that's what leads me to believe something else is at play. I took the discs off last night (one was seriously rusted to the hub and required some percussive maintenance to remove it) and cleaned up them plus the mating surface. I couldn't see much wobble when I tried again- maybe that was it.

However, the brakes haven't changed- still wobbling like mad at 50-60 when braking with any force. I did find the nearside hub doesn't spin freely, so maybe that needs doing too - wheel bearing?

Calipers are here so i'll fit them tonight, I have a feeling this will solve most of the problems.

Reckon the disc(s) are either warped or worn due to being out so far, replace them both as cheap enough from Eurocarparts, think Pagid ones are £42 each which I used on mine and seem fine. Wheel bearing would normally make a noticeable noise if playing up though.

Is the car sorted Ken?

Yeah, it's got to be worth a go, mines been fine since changing the hub assembly and disc, must have done 7 or 8k since then so that must have been the problem.

1000 miles is nothing on a new disc, assuming that only one disc needs replacing, then just change that one and save yourself fifty quid!

Had mine done a few weeks ago by a good independent garage (who I know), blueprint belt and bearing and fan belt and coolant re-done with use of new loan car for £220+vat. Car going great.

Hi buddy

Thanks for the note.

I was after more of a mechanic who does private jobs on the weekend really. With that price you have quoted I would rather let Lexus go ahead and fit the belt as their fixed price is only £299 all in. OK so it doesn't include the tensioner but having owned lots of Type R Hondas and discussed with their Master tech, tensioners/rollers are only changed if deemed required upon inspection. They just don't really go wrong on these Japanese cars, the bearings are of such high quality! You may end up putting on an inferior part to the one being removed so just bare that in mind mate.

I remember asking my Honda Master tech to change the cambelt, tensioners and waterpump on one of my Accord Type R's. He gawked at why I wished to change the waterpump! When removed, it was clear to see that the one removed (Honda) was miles better in terms of quality than the one fitted (GMB Japan I think); the impellor was a rubbish tin item on the aftermarket.

Blueprint do put the highest quality Japanese parts in their boxes but since I have not had one to hand for this job I don't what make is in there. It is most likely Koyo or something.

The discounted belt and tensioner are on ebay.

Did you get the belt done?

Don't give up until you stick a s/h hub assembly on it, only one of the discs needs replacing! Gotta be worth a try.

Mine wasn't sorted swiftly, took 2 years and more new discs and money that I care to remember!

Changing the complete hub assembly did eventually sort mine out but yours may just be a sticking caliper as mentioned.

Having cambelt changed this week and thought it would be an idea to replace the spark plugs at the same time.

Fancy using Denso's but Eurocarparts list more than one, does anyone know the correct plug number?

Thanks Steve, assume the oil has to be a specific type? (not from Eurocarparts etc)

Guess also it's best to let the fitter supply the parts just incase the belt snaps after a few months...

Not sure about Jap bearings not really going wrong though, they reckon wheel bearings should last life of the car but my fronts collapsed at 80k...good job it wasn't the belt bearing!!

Yes, that was the plan, is this a diy job?

Checked auto gearbox oil and it's a brown colour rather than the normal red, assume the oil has done it's job and needs to be changed. I read somewhere that flushing the box is not a good idea, just drain and replace what comes out? Is the drain plug easy to get to? If anyone has done this before any tips would be appreciated.