noby76

this link is from Lexus bham ebay page for IS200 front discs and pads also has the part number at the buttom of the page. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Lexus-Front-Discs-Pads-IS200-IS300-/180668328011?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a10abe84b

Guys thought i'll share this link. was gona get a K&N panel filter but changed my mind and thought i'll go with OE parts instead as i feel thats what was designed for the car. I think its Lexus B'hams ebay page and they stock anything from filters, grills, cambelt kits, spark plugs etc... worth a look http://stores.ebay.co.uk/lexusbirminghamparts P.S i dont work for them just thought i'll share...

silly question but when you press load do you wait for the flashing lights to go green at the sides before inserting? as mine will not allow an insert before it goes green and try loading from another tray to see if it works so if you trying to load into tray 1 but already have a cd in tray 6 switch to tray 6 eject the cd and try loading into that tray instead if it doesnt work then the CD mechanisim might be playing up.

i think they had the same wheels as IS's but i might be wrong. either 17 inch which where 215 45 zr17's or if its sport will be 225 40 zr18's. am guessing tires will depend on brand you prefer and how much you willing to spend but these cars prefer premuim tires so Pirelli's , Bridgetones, or Continentals will all do the job.

dont worry mate these things are built like tanks so chances of engine dropping is one in a trillion! most things to concentrate on is engine clutch and gearbox the rest are just cosmetics. so long as there are no leaks coming from under the car al fluids levels are on full (oil, coolant,brake fluid) starts ok, does not over heat, fan kicks in to cool it down when warm, shifts from 1st all the way to 6th and no lengine ights are coming on when driving that shows the most vital things to move a car from A to B are all in place... so for now i will concetrate on two vital things cam/drive belts change as thats what drives the cams of an engine and fresh oil change as thats the blood line of any engine. everything other issue is cosmetic can be put right later.

yeh they nice cars and hardly go faulty but if they do then its big ££$$, but if you can keep ontop of things like belts and fluids i.e having belts replced, changing oil every 10,000miles changing coolant i think every 5 years, brake fuild every 20,000miles they can run for a long time. pads, discs and tires will always depend on how the car is driven by the owner..

No prob mate i actually picked mine up in Bham which is not far from wlverhamton so try Lex bham aswell or even Leicester or Coventry just give them a quick call and compare quotes between them. I'v also noticed Lex dealerships are good with doing deals so dont really go with the first quote you get try and knock the price down by say £50 and chances are they will do it for that price but if they don't, hey at least you gave it a shot... Yeah, i'll ring around a few... The thing is, from where i live, Wolves is about 40 mile away at least and the further i go, the less relevent the quote becomes because i'll be forking out in fuel.... I really do feel ready to cry for being so bl**dy stupid. I'm 6ft 5", heavily tattooed and been through a lot in my life, and this is getting to me to the point that my head is going purple and i dare not check my blood pressure. Also, i'm absolutely skint now, so this is going to be fun, finding money for all of the belts, tensioners, pulley's and full service etc... I don't live near any high buildings to jump off either if everything goes t*ts up.... :megaangry: well you dont have to get a service done just the belt changes will do. and work out how much it will cost to drive 40miles each way if say Leiceter quotes cheaper and add the fuel expese to thier quote and if it still works out about £50 cheaper to that of say Wolverhampton then its a no brainer... and when it comes to service just get an oil change by buying the oil and filter from places like eurocar parts go to a local garage with your parts and they will drain and refill for you for about £30 labour. 5W-30 oils are best. then untill you get some cash you can splash out on a full service. :hocus-pokus:

oh also dont forget to ask if the quote will include idler and tensioner aswell as its best to have those done aswell when changing the belts and why not have the drive belts done as well whilts they are there! I think the water pump on IS200's are driven by the cam belt aswell most people tend to change this as part of the cambelt change but can be inspected if its in good condition you can leave it !!

No prob mate i actually picked mine up in Bham which is not far from wlverhamton so try Lex bham aswell or even Leicester or Coventry just give them a quick call and compare quotes between them. I'v also noticed Lex dealerships are good with doing deals so dont really go with the first quote you get try and knock the price down by say £50 and chances are they will do it for that price but if they don't, hey at least you gave it a shot...

had mine done in January on IS300 with Lex Milton Keynes and was charged £488 all in. this was for cambelt, drive belt, idler,, tensioner and drain and refill of engine coolant. so might be a bit cheaper on the IS200. decided to go with Lex as I felt they will know what they doing when it comes to cambelt changes and will also have 12months parts gurantee if it snaps. i know other reputable garages can do this aswell but just went with Lex for peace of mind. So if unsure the belt has been done i will get it done ASAP get quotes off Lexus round your area first and compare with other garages if the price difference is not that great go with Lex but its all up to you.

VVT-i is always on guys as its continously varying the valves in all driving conditions and not fixed to a specific rpm like Hondas VTEC or VVTL-i which comes in at 6000rpm on the celicas. what you are feeling is when you hit 4500rpm is the second intake opening to suck in huge amount of air into the cylinders of the engine and this effect feels like something just kicked in had this on my previus ford cougar v6 aswell. Lexus calls it Acoustic Control Induction System which has the effect of a super charger but not quite like a super charger it just helps your engine breath better at higher speeds which results in better performance. see link below about this and other Lexus technologies they use in thier cars. http://www.lexus.com.bh/technology_explorer/acoustic_control_induction_system_ACIS.asp?model=All

That's not a feature of ect/pwr, It'll hold on all the way to the max rpm in normal mode too if you plant the pedal into the carpet. What??? you dont beleive me ? put you car in snow mode before moving off drive till about 30mph and turn if off your rear wheels will feel like some weigh has been lifted off it and become more free in motion! drive at the same speed about 30mph trn ECT-PWR on and keep dipping the throttle pedal quckly like up down motion and feel the rear wheels or the whole car respond instantly to your foot. turn it off and try the same thing again by dipping thotle pedal quicky in up down manner and although it will respond wont be as sharp. and yes you right car will still rev to 6300 when ect-pwr is off but wont shift agressively between gears thats both on up shift and kick down... i have tested all this and can feel the difference so no toyota/Lexus will note have a feature if it doesnt really do anything when it comes to performance of a car ever little helps and this helps free the car up a bit! just like trc off button turn it off and see your car will send more torque to the rear wheels (drift) when handled agressivly. so that button really works. just like VVT-i although one does not notice any difference in performance but its working by either advacing or retarding the cams to give the engine the best performance in any rev or speed. so these things do work so it will not give an IS200 0-62 in 6 secs when its on but mid range acceleration will be enjoyed when its on. The reason you feel what you feel when you switch from snow mode to normal is that in snow mode the throttle is desensitised for want of a better word. i.e. with the same movement of the pedal, you don't get the same throttle response. So, if you move along at 30 with snow mode on, and turn it off, the throttle sensitivity resturns to normal and the same position of the pedal has more throttle. Hence the feeling of suddenly unlocking something. The change in throttle feel in ect/pwr mode is because when you blip the thottle in pwr mode, the gearbox is more likely to change a cog or two, and hence feels more responsive.... that's the point of the switch. On none of the Lexus have I noticed a change of "aggression" of the gear change, but you can make it feel more aggressive as when you let off the throttle when you have got to the speed you wanted, the car may have to change more gears in one go to get back to cruising, and vice-versa. I understand vvti - it works all the time, in snow, normal or ect/pwr mode. Not quite sure what you are saying regarding trc. With it on or off, the car will send the same amount of power to the rear wheels, the only difference is with trc off, it wont cut that power when traction is lost. There is nothing magical about the diff, no electricary going on with it. With all that above, in all three cars I've had, the etc/pwr button worked better on some than others IMO. My Mk1 GS300 Sport I always had etc/pwr on. It made the car much more responsive in normal conditions, with it off, I found I had to kick down too hard to get a gear change which normally resulted in much higher acceleration than I actually wanted for the situation. On the Mk2 GS300 Sport, I actually couldn't tell that much difference to be fair, no where near as much as the mk1. In my Mk2 GS430 Sport, I think the other electronic wizardry has dulled the point of the switch down. The 430 apparently (so Ive read) has intelligent shifting whereby if it feels the engine can deliver the power it thinks you want from the throttle position you are in, it won't change gear. Which leads to having to give more thottle than you actually want to get the gear you really want - or use the selector instead which is what I tend to do now. As you rightly say, it won't give a 0-60 of anything better, but it won't improve mid range either on full throttle, it will make the car "seem" more responsive though purely due to the gear it has selected. As I said, on my Mk1, that made the car much more pleasant to drive, but no quicker in any scenario if you wanted to drive fast. you have just confirmed exactly what i meant by agressive behaviour when ect-pwr is on like you said "but you can make it feel more aggressive as when you let off the throttle when you have got to the speed you wanted, the car may have to change more gears in one go to get back to cruising, and vice-versa" in this mode the ecu and behaviour of the transmission is different with regards to the way it manages gear changes hence i used the word 'aggressive' with trc on or off the car will send the same amount of power/torque as you said but when trc is on, the ecu muzzles some power/torque when traction is lost but when its off you get all power/torque to the rear wheels which results in 'more' or shuuld i say 'uncontrolled' power/torque. so again we are saying the same thing but in different words. regarding differencial maybe differencial wasnt the right word i was looking for but what ever transmits power to the rear wheels when ect-pwr is on sharpens up. mite be something else but for all i know differencial is what transmits power or what splits torque to the rear wheels of a car.

3UZ is old give me a 2UR-GSE

That's not a feature of ect/pwr, It'll hold on all the way to the max rpm in normal mode too if you plant the pedal into the carpet. What??? you dont beleive me ? put you car in snow mode before moving off drive till about 30mph and turn if off your rear wheels will feel like some weigh has been lifted off it and become more free in motion! drive at the same speed about 30mph trn ECT-PWR on and keep dipping the throttle pedal quckly like up down motion and feel the rear wheels or the whole car respond instantly to your foot. turn it off and try the same thing again by dipping thotle pedal quicky in up down manner and although it will respond wont be as sharp. and yes you right car will still rev to 6300 when ect-pwr is off but wont shift agressively between gears thats both on up shift and kick down... i have tested all this and can feel the difference so no toyota/Lexus will note have a feature if it doesnt really do anything when it comes to performance of a car ever little helps and this helps free the car up a bit! just like trc off button turn it off and see your car will send more torque to the rear wheels (drift) when handled agressivly. so that button really works. just like VVT-i although one does not notice any difference in performance but its working by either advacing or retarding the cams to give the engine the best performance in any rev or speed. so these things do work so it will not give an IS200 0-62 in 6 secs when its on but mid range acceleration will be enjoyed when its on.

mate trust me the 2JZ was designed by toyota to take on Nissans RB26 in its day.. i tend to keep my car naturally aspired and only go for bigger capacity when i need more power! and although i know IJZ will do the job nicely a 2JZ is its bigger bro so you can image the stress , heat, and power bigger bro can handle.

agree with monter mat thought i dont have a turbo in mine i have read a lot about 2JZ-GTE engines and these things are crazy POWER both in toyota Supra or IS300.. well in your case second generatioin IS but as suggetsed weigh the options and see if just getting an IS-F will be enough but if you know how to build your engines then go for Toyota's best ever engine which has three letters 2 J Z...cus this thing will take 1000bhp and give a bughatti a run for its 1 million price tag

yes but come on we all know 2JZ rules they dont cal it a 2 for nothing..

will test that and see!

though i dont have the answer to your question can i suggest some thing? go for 2JZ-GTE instead but you might have to change your transmission due to the INSANE power those engines chuck out and the cars chasis can handle them with know sweat!! how does 500 rear wheel horse power sound using the same 2JZ engine block, piston, cams, and GE head..yummy

my 300 has this feature! which i have tested couple of times and worked....i filled up at the pterol station locked it then unlocked it after about a minute after queing and paying for my fuel walked back to my car and doors had auto locked its self. just so i wasnt seeing things i tested again at my works car park when i was on my way home. the remote range on these keys are really good as i was able to unlock my car about 50 metres away when walking to the car about 30 seconds later it locked itself automatically and lights flashed that was just before i got to the doors and i did hear the cetral locking activate itself. nice feature though. I think it was really meant for when you accidentally unlock the car within a range when the keys are in say your pocket when walking away from the car, hand bag, baby/kids playing with the key in front room without your knowledge with car parked outside! your car will still be there when you get back to it the next day.

Doesn’t produce any extra horse power to the already factory power of the car. What it does best and effectively is it sharpens your throttle input, kicks down to the best gear ratio based on speed and rpm travelling and hangs onto any gear all the way to 6300 rpm before aggressively shifting up to the next gear. In a nut shell it overwrites the system which softens the rear differential and throttle input between gear changes when ECT-PWR is off making for a more aggressive drive with a bit of help coming from the intelligent timing of the valves(VVT-i). I personally think it makes my 300 feel like it has more gear ratios but am guessing its just the way the ecu manages the shifts when in this mode which feels that way. it’s the fact that it shifts up at the highest rpm (6300) and kicks down to the best available gear ratios with more torque at hand when slowing down to say a roundabout so you will have the best torque acceleration when exiting the bend. always puts a smile on my face

sounds like a rattling noise! roll your glasses down and check if its coming from your wheels or the engine bay. if its from the wheels have all four inspected including suspension. to check if its engine bay related stop the car stick in N and rev it if you still hear the noise the might be engine related i.e drive belt, cam belt, power sterring etc. if you getting engine mngt lights on the dash then have it code read by Lex or indie garage that can read Lexus ecu codes and take things from there.

you guys always think more cylinders and bigger bhp is always faster Lexus LFA 4.8litre V10 , 1480KG, 552 BHP, 480NM of tourque, 0-60 (3.7sec), power to weight ratio 373bhp per ton Nissan GTR 3.8litre V6 , 1730KG, 523 BHP, 612NM of tourque, 0-60(2.9 sec) power to weight ratio 302bhp per ton as you can see it doesnt really matter if an engine has 4 more cylinders over another or more bhp per tone over another if the car has an excellent gearing it can keep up. LFA has a V10 and 71bhp more power to weight ratio wise compared to the GTR but only won by a thousand of a second. M5 has a V10 and 133bhp more power to weight ratio wise compared to an IS300 so you can now start getting the picture if i say IS300 with its good gearing is not far off performance wise LFA 11.8sec GTR 11.9 sec

haha well its been fun having this discussion. will just get it dynoed for the fun of it and post my results... !!

nice one guys live near south too hit me up when you guys are meeting!