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J Henderson

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Posts posted by J Henderson

  1. Yep, along with boring out the centres. The only thing then would be whether the tyres would rub on the wheel arch or not.

    With the spacers, the front wheels will be very close to flush, possibly even poking a few mm, and a 235/45 is a pretty meaty size to have on the front. So, you might need to get your arches rolled, or fit a narrower tyre.

  2. Even with the correct bore, no, since the high offset is another hurdle that still needs to be overcome.

    I believe those wheels are 8" wide, and the only way they'll fit on the front is if you use spacers to lower the offset.

    Due to the shape of the arm that connects the upper and lower wishbones, you need an offset of around +40 to clear it with an 8" wheel. My wheels are 8x17 et45 and I need a 5mm spacer to avoid contact with it.

    In a nutshell, you could make those wheels fit, but it won't be straightforward, or cheap.

  3. I've got those 25w Q5 CREE bulbs in my reversing lights and they're excellent. They take a few seconds to reach optimum brightness just like HIDs, but even when they initially come on, they illuminate what's behind the car way better than normal bulbs.

    I think they might be harder to see during daylight though, especially bright sunshine, because some old dude stopped and complained that I "didn't have any reversing lights" after I had reverse-parked in front of him.

  4. Eibach Pro-Kit springs & KYB dampers are a great combo for a daily driver.

    The car handles bends, dips and bumps much better and feels more planted on the road, plus the ride comfort is largely unaffected so it still feels like a Lexus to drive. The drop is around 30mm which keeps the camber within spec.

    Here's how my car sits.

    IS200-30_zpscde7c601.jpg

  5. The tailpipe on a standard exhaust has a diameter of 90mm so you'll need something slightly bigger than that.

    My advice would be to keep checking eBay for a genuine Lexus chrome tip. A removable slash cut one was fitted to some Sport models and they pop up for sale quite often.

  6. Ideally, I would've liked to have done the same as Ian and made use of an OEM motorised screen, but my lack of electrical knowledge was a stumbling point. I'm not keen on having an aftermarket head-unit either, so, I just settled on a semi-permanent solution by trying to install/position an off-the-shelf unit as neatly as possible.

    IS200-34_zps1092a863.jpg

    It's fixed to the dash using the normal windscreen sucker on a self-adhesive mounting disc. Pretty solid, doesn't vibrate etc and it can be removed and replaced quickly. Plus, I retain the use of my pop-up storage bin.

    The power/charging cable is concealed by running it down behind the air vents and stereo etc and fits into a flush-mount USB port in the cigarette lighter socket ( one of http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200944699285?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649'>these ).

    Something that looked messy would annoy me, but I'm quite happy with this. As a bonus, the nav unit has Bluetooth for hands-free calling.

    Assuming the footprint area of the standard dashboard shelf is big enough, you could do something similar. In fact, it would look more discreet than what I've got since it would be sitting lower down in the dash.

    • Like 1
  7. That's where the buttons should be, Stuart. The ones in the picture have been moved.

    The switches are all the same size and interchangeable, so lots of people swap the TRC/SNOW button into the middle to make things more symmetrical.

    For what it's worth, my button doesn't illuminate either. Until now, I had assumed it wasn't supposed to.

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