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J Henderson

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Posts posted by J Henderson

  1. I recently completed an order with Amayama (my first) and was quite satisfied with how it went on their end.

    I went through about 7 days worth of status updates before my parcel was eventually shipped. I believe they can/will source parts from different locations before shipping the complete order from Japan, so that might explain the delay. As I recall, one of my items was sourced from their UAE warehouse.

    It then took about 3 days to arrive in the country...BUT, the parcel then languished in the hands of HMRC and Parcelforce for well over a week before they sent me notification via snail mail that I had an import VAT charge to pay before it would actually be delivered.

    This is terrible service compared to companies like UPS or FedEx who will let you settle a charge like that before your package lands in the UK, or even just bill you at a later date.

    Anyway, hopefully you will receive your goods soon. Luckily my order was only for something cosmetic (illuminated scuff plates), so I wasn't in too much of a hurry to receive them.

  2. Decent winter tyres and a bit of weight in the boot.....

    This.

    I always negotiate the winter months with a large and heavy tool kit strapped-down in the boot. Even on summer tyres it can make a noticeable difference. A shovel and some de-icing salt aren't bad things to keep in there either for some extra weight, plus a warm jacket in case you do get stuck...

    As stated, the "Snow" mode just dulls the throttle response, which in theory makes you less likely to spin the wheels. It's possibly more useful on an automatic car than it is on a manual, but personally, I preferred not to use it and trust my ability to control the throttle & clutch on a car that I drove every day, rather than deal with a lethargic pedal that felt unfamiliar...

    Also, when setting off in slippery conditions in my IS200, I would actually turn off traction control most of the time as I feel you can often make better progress and build momentum quicker with constant (but controlled) wheel-spin until you find some grip, rather than have the TCS cut-in and kill your momentum.

  3. I stand to be corrected but I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter what type of lights are fitted. There should be a step or rise in the pattern on the near side for the purpose of making road signs, pedestrians etc more easily visible.

    Whether the "step" is legally-required or not, I'm unsure to be honest, but I do know the general shape of Billnick's beam pattern (higher on the left), is quite normal, even with projector HIDs.

    An MOT tester chiming in would be handy right about now. :)

  4. Whether your lights need adjusted or not, that beam pattern is not unusual. The near-side cut-off line will always be higher in a RHD car.

    As an alternative, there's also a sensor on the rear suspension (passenger side), that can be adjusted to alter the height of the headlamp aim. This might be quicker/easier since it'll affect both lights at the same time.

    I would probably stick to using the adjustment screws on the lights themselves though in case that sensor underneath is rusted solid, or ends up getting broken.

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  5. Hi everyone,

    Some of you may remember me as I've been a member of the site for a while, albeit I was mostly active in the 1st Gen section and haven't been visiting much at all in recent times.

    I'll be a lot more active now though as I just bought an IS 250 a few days ago and I'm delighted with it.

    I don't have any pictures yet, but it's a late-2010 F-Sport with the auto box and ML Navigation system. It has the Baransu / G-Spider wheels, which I'm kinda undecided about, so I might try and change them for something else at some point. Sometimes they look great, but I dunno...I think I prefer the Hoshi-style wheels that most F-Sport models of a similar age seem to have.

    Anyway, that's nit-picking because the car is brilliant and a joy to drive. My old 200 was always in good mechanical order and felt smooth & refined to me (and well-equipped for that matter), but the 250 is on another level altogether.

    It helps that the newer car is much younger, and has done way fewer miles (only 21K), but considering there's only 7 years difference between them, I'm amazed at how much more advanced it feels and the level of technology and equipment it possesses - I'm constantly finding something new every time I get behind the wheel!

    I'd love to tell you what colour it is, but I don't actually know the name. The car was advertised as "grey" so I thought it might be Cadoxton Slate, but as soon as I went to view it I could tell it was clearly something else. The paint code is 4T5 and I don't think I've seen another IS in this colour. A google search suggests "Truffle Mica" is the US name, but since Lexus paint often has a different name depending on region, I'm wondering if anyone knows what the colour is called on these shores?

    Cheers,

    John

  6. RE050A is an ancient model dating back to the '90s, I wouldn't go near those. If it was my money, the choice would boil down to either of these;

    Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2

    Michelin Pilot Sport 3

    Continental Sport Contact 5

    They're all reasonably new designs, and the ones that consistently score highly in all the tyre tests conducted every year.

    Next time I need some rubber, I'll probably lean towards the SC5 as they're supposedly better in every department than the older Sport Contact 3, which is what I currently have on my car, and have been very impressed with. I previously had Hankook V12 Evo's on, which rode better and were quieter, but the Conti's are considerably more grippy in the wet or dry.

    Regarding 215 vs 225. I've run both and the wider tyre obviously offers more grip, plus the ride is a little more compliant due to the taller sidewall. On the down side, the steering response isn't as sharp, plus acceleration off the line is also slightly worse. 225s are a better fit for my wheels (8" wide) though, so I'm happy to accept the slightly compromised performance.

  7. The Battery should cope fine if it's in good condition. The biggest concern would probably be the potential for the calipers seizing up - if there's any underlying problems with them, a long period of inactivity might finish them off.

    That's what happened in my case when I was unable to drive my car much over the winter and had to leave it parked-up for long periods.

    When it was MOT'd in December, a slight fluctuation in the braking performance was flagged-up as an advisory, and sure enough, when I could finally drive my car again on a regular basis (in March), the brakes were sticking and the pedal was juddering, which, in turn, LED to a pair of warped discs and ruined pads.

  8. Probably Bilstein or Koni Sport if money was no object.

    I thought about getting those but, apart from the cost, I was a bit concerned how stiff they would be as I mostly just use my car to commute to and from work. Went with OEM-spec replacements (KYB) in the end.

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