normski2

Think this is referring to Paint Protection Film ... which kinda does what it implies

As said above the choice is yours. There are quite a few makes out there Varta, Yuasa, Bosch come to mind. You just need to make sure the size is correct and the poles are at the bulk head side or you will over stretch the cabling. I have a Bosch S4 type 068 that I fitted a few years back. I’ve found it to be excellent and obtainable for around £84 delivered. Tayna batteries had a good deal on them last month.

Well done you … good result!

Defo check this one first

True that. You could also get the Bosch S4 026 068 from Tanya Batteries at £81.47 delivered. Choices are always out there 🙂

I concur whole heartedly with all of that. Just retired and no intention of letting mine go. Just back from 2 weeks in France where the car was stellar and did not put a foot wrong. Well impressed we were.

Hi John It was purely preventative. I was approaching 100,000 mls so felt it was appropriate. There was no record of it being done on any of the service history that I have, and I've had the car from 30,000mls. So I'm confident it was the original pump. I figured it wise to renew the serpentine drive belt whilst I was doing the pump. The belt has to come off as part of the procedure anyway. Those parts cost me about £93 all in, I had bought them a year ago prior to retiring ( pump was a Blueprint make). Can't remember how much the pink coolant was but you'll need 2x5ltr pots as you'll need close to 9ltr for the fill up. I'm pretty competent with spanners but like to take my time and be thorough. All in it took around 4 hours. You'll need catch pots as it gets quite messy when you pull off the old pump. The old pump was in really good condition. Bearing was silent and there was no external seepage or crust anywhere. One thing I will say is you'll need a 3/8" drive socket set to be able to get in there, a 1/2" set is no good on the pump bolts as the std drive extension is just too long.

I changed my water pump and serpentine drive belt about 4 weeks ago. Did the whole job on the drive. My drive slopes too, downwards. I had completed the task with nose down and went through the normal warm up procedure. At this point I found that even with temp set to high and fan on full blast the air in the cabin was not coming through hot at all. Turned the car around with nose pointing uphill and it was sorted within 10-15 mins. As Ahmed has pointed out the expansion tank should not be empty!

Perfect answer ….. use a g clamp and a piece of wood across the face of the piston. Tightening down the g clamp gently should move the piston back into its body giving you the clearance you need. Keep an eye on the reservoir for any spill out.

This is a puzzle. We both have a 2010 model. However, there is a difference in that wife and I both have iPhone 6S. All contacts transferred without a hitch right from first ownership of the car in 2013. That was with iPhone 4S then 5S and now 6S. All I can say is that I followed the instructions in the manual and it worked perfectly. The only bit I’m not too sure about is if I also had the phone wire connected to the USB port in the armrest at the time of transfer. Gut instinct tells me I did. Strange!!

These will be up on the roof again when the weather is a bit warmer. They are remarkably stable on the roof rack when strapped down tight. I normally poke the oars in through the ski hatch from the boot.

Aye, we get a lot of admiring looks and comments. A really nice 40yr old pair of his and hers custom built touring/road bikes. As you spotted Reynolds tubing indeed. I spent the first lock down sourcing and fitting new wheels, tubes, tyres, 6 speed cassettes, chains, derailleur sets and gear selectors. They are an absolute treat to ride now.

I have this fitted to my 250. Thule bars with the relevant foot and a Halfords rack that’s probably 25yrs old. Works a treat though. Had it on my IS200 previously but with a different foot pack for the Thule bars. Did a French holiday to Dordogne … worked a treat! The bars are locked on but I take each bike rack off with each bike and put the rack in the boot for safety as I really don’t want some itinerant to thieve it

Actually, you can just click on it .. that worked for me just now!

Sorry about that I should have checked after inserting the link. Try this https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-2nd-gen-2006-2013/612326-diy-for-an-oops-moment-tried-to-replace-cabin-air-filter-without-setting-to-circ.html Copy and paste into your browser

Take a good look at the pictures shown and take a look at yours and see if you can see any breakages anywhere.

Found it!! Have a good read thru this from first to last post. I can vouch for the JB Weld (2 pack bonding/repair glue) as being most excellent for other repairs I have undertaken. You can get it from Ebay. Link Hope that helps you and good luck with it.

This does sound like the actuator lever has been broken as the lid on the filter will lift up when set to 'Recirculate'. There was a repair procedure put up on the USA Lexus forum. I'll go see if I can find it. Its not too complicated if you are at all handy at having a go. Like others have said I too leave my A/C on and set to 'Auto' permanently. Never ever had any misting of windows in 8 years ownership.

I'm surprised a 2010 model has Halogen headlights. I thought the Headlights had changed right across all models to HID type with D4S bulb. Mine are ... I have the Osram Xenarc Cool Blue Intense D4S and they are very good. My old 2007 Lexus had Halogen H11 and they were a bit rubbish it has to said.

Hi Don't know if you need any guidance, but if you were, here are a couple of guides from quite a while back for brakes/discs on the 250.

Do you know if the Cabin Filter has ever been changed? If not, it's worth doing. If it's old and full of debris and crud you'll notice an improvement in air quality inside the car when it's changed. I get the charcoal type from Eurocarparts whenever I do a bulk buy of assorted bits. They're only £11 or so. Here is how to do it. Follow the instructions, do not force anything as a broken link can be very expensive. Once you've done it ... it's quite easy. Just remember 'recirculate button' every time before you start. Change mine every year.

I'm pretty sure our cars are not affected by any Canbus issues..... at least as far as my experiences have been thus far. I'd be very surprised if the bulbs have thrown up a VSC issue. Are you sure you haven't inadvertently knocked anything whilst changing the bulbs. Bonnet shut properly? The only thing I would say is... The type of bulbs you got with the different blade end.... I could not get them to work anywhere on my car. Worked in my son's Audi but not my Lexus. But hey you found they worked. Are they both still illuminating? Strange

That's how it is with mine ... but I'm on a facelift 2010 version. Many moons back I had a 07 220D. That did not have Bluetooth but I fitted a gadget thingy to give me Bluetooth capabilities. Lexus were incredibly slow off the mark with something as basic as Bluetooth on the earlier models.

Good shout that’s where I got my kits from. Could not remember the name, but that’s the kiddie. 🙂

You can get your parts from Lexus parts direct here on this forum, any motor part factors (euro carparts etc) or even reputable sellers on Ebay. There are many good sellers on Ebay. Always check the sellers feedback ... It's worth doing. If it were me I'd probably get all 8 slide pins and the boot kits for them and do the lot. You will usually get new caliper fastening bolts too. Your existing kit may be 12 years old if not done before. Make sure your mechanic uses Toyota Red Rubber grease for the slide pins. Crucially this grease won't attack the rubber boots and make them all stretchy and distended. I've been using it for quite some years now and I've been impressed how well it holds up over time as lube for the pins. A drop of thread lock on the caliper fixing bolts is a must too! I do my slide pins myself every year. Normally check them in spring.