normski2

It was nicely moist, by virtue of the little pieces of Pineapple in the mix. The only sticky part is the very top which is daubed with warmed Apricot Jam. It was delicious. Sal made it ... not me. I did, however, ( in my role as "Doh" chef ) mix the contents and cut/fold the paper lining for the cake tin, and decorate the top with nuts, cherries and candied fruit slices. Why am I now salivating and dribbling ?

now then now then ..... you must be a member there then? Strange. Who doesn't like a nice bit of cake now and then?

Oooo . Look at you . Bake off tent beckoning. This is Sal's version of Mary Berry's Genoa cake. Utterly divine.

Not quite sure how Peachy's place did it ... but that is indeed a very keen price. Hope they did it all correctly. To do mine they dismantled the front section of the bodywork (rad/grill/bumper etc) and removed the engine. Apparently that is the only way you can separate and then replace the head. That is what was explained to me by Lexus... but I was not too bothered about process as they were paying ... I just wanted the thing put right. Mine had a new and modified head and some injectors all replaced under warranty. It was not just a case of dropping on a new gasket. I agree though ... it is a heck of a lot to pay.

Pretty sure the head is alloy ... so there is a tendency for it to twist/warp. I'm sure I read somewhere that the engine has "wet liners" in the piston bores which meant it could not be skimmed. Think Lexus will probably be more than £2000. The bill for mine (Lexus picked up the tab) was over £4000.

OOh .... Lemon Drizzle please Anyone who hasn't made a little mistake stand over there in Line A .... the one that is empty!! Don't worry about it ... it's how we learn. It's what I tell myself anyway! Heaven knows I've made loads and learnt loads. Can you imagine the mess my cake would turn out like!

I use the Archoil AR6200 at 1ml per 10 litres of fuel every 4th fill up. Think it was around 16p per ml or thereabouts. They do good discount offers from time to time. I use cheapest fuel I can find ... which is nearly always supermarket. The additive seems to last for ages. From here. http://www.powerenhancer.co.uk/archoil-ar6200-fuel-modification-complex-high-concentrate.html They also supply the BG44K and AR6400 bulk petrol/injection cleaner. I put a tin of BG44K in to a tank refill (50 litres) every 10,000 mls. Varies from £16 to £20 a tin. Halfords also do some similar products from the likes of Wynn's. If you can spare the time, .... not a huge amount, this is worth a read. I'm not preaching to anyone ... just offering observations. http://www.oilem.com/fuel-catalysts-archoil-ar6200-2/

Could have sworn my old is220d had one. l know it was a few years ago ... but I'm certain I changed it on that too. Maybe I've become forgetful with the passing years.

There have been a few occasions where folk have forgotten to select "recirc" before attempting to replace the cabin filter. This can cause a selector breakage if the cover door is forced up to get at the filter inside. This can be a right pain and it's been said that Lexus charge hundreds to repair this. The good news is there is rather a good thread regarding the repair of this over on the US Lexus club site. It's a good write up and there are quite a good selection of photos to view. Here is a link for anyone looking to have a go at a home repair. Equally, it's worth book marking just in case you need it in the future ....you never know!! http://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-2nd-gen-2006-2013/612326-diy-for-an-oops-moment-tried-to-replace-cabin-air-filter-without-setting-to-circ.html

Just found this useful youtube video so thought I'd share it. Ignoring the dialogue ... this demonstrates the lifting of the lid (covering the cabin filter) when you select "recirculate button" The view you get through the glove-box is somewhat different but you'll get the gist of it. The whole glove-box front has been removed for the video.

This is what you are looking for

Take a look through the lower grill at the front .... The one below the number plate. If you look on the rhs,it's just below the front impact beam. It hangs down into the air flow by about 2" or so. Could have got a plug of snow on it perhaps?

Sounds like the clutch release bearing to me.

Yep that looks like the heat sensor for the battery. It can trigger a warning I believe, but don't think it would be a VSC type more likely to be a "Battery Low" warning. But these things can work in funny ways ... so maybe it could trigger a VSC. Get it back in its rightful place and see if the VSC stops. I had a innocuous wire loose on my old 220d and that caused a VSC message to be displayed. Looked like a mechanic had possibly bashed it (and partly crushed the wire) against the engine body with the spinning of a socket handle. At least that was my best guess. If you have a code each time with VSC for the DPF then that is your issue. Wynn's and I think Millers make a dpf cleaner additive....Halfords or Eurocarparts should be able to oblige.

+1 to all that above. Exactly what I do.

Well, whad'ya know .... just found this over on the US site relating to Sensor 2 replacement!! http://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-2nd-gen-2006-2013/843618-diy-is350-oygen-sensor-replacement-p0138-bank-1-sensor-2-a.html

Very good point....kind of thing that's all too easily missed

Been doing a bit of digging to find the relevant info on the air/fuel (A/F) and oxygen (O2) sensors fitted to our vehicles. Essentially, on the is250, there are four to be considered. There are 2 Upstream sensors (Bank 1 Sensor 1 and Bank 2 Sensor 1) and 2 Downstream sensors located after the cats (Bank 1 Sensor 2 and Bank 2 Sensor 2). The engine is a V6 configuration ( sorry to say the proverbial, but needs must) so we have two Banks of three cylinders. Viewed from the front of the car the bank on the left is Bank 1 and the bank on the right is Bank 2. Found this to help clarify if anybody not sure. See below at A ... sorry, all went out whack when I uploaded it all!! The A/F sensors are good, generally speaking, for 80,000 mls or so. Lexus recommend changing between 80 and 100,000 (but they may last longer). The oxygen sensors are very important because they monitor the air/fuel ratios and exhaust of the engine, so if they fail more pollutants can be released into the atmosphere. This can also cause the engine to run into serious problems including a compromised catalytic converter. You may feel erratic acceleration, notice a bit more smoke from the exhaust, smell a petrol odour, notice your mpg start dropping and if one fails completely you'll get light up on the dash with Check VSC warning. Then you'll need to get the codes read to pinpoint the problematic one (assuming it is indeed a O2 sensor). Here is another bit of info i found which is a TSB from Lexus. This is handy as it relates to all of the Lexus vehicles. This clarifies further the individual sensor locations. See below at B I'm just about to do my 2 Upstream sensors (precautionary move .... as I've noticed a tad more smoke and slight smell of fuel, plus I'm on 74,000 mls) as Lexus will want around £650 to fit them and they are not that tricky to do your self. Newbie has done 2 splendid guides on how to do with excellent photos. Denso are not the most helpful to the UK market but the sensors can be sourced from Rockauto in the USA at much cheaper prices. Import Tax is a grey area ... sometimes you get away with it and sometimes not!! Currently, the sensors are £70-90 from Rockauto (may improve, who knows, the Dollar rate is not brill at the mo ... but heck they're still a darned site cheaper!) or anywhere around £240 each in the UK. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus Incidentally, while I'm doing these jobs I shall change the PCV valve too (easy to do while doing Bank 2 Sensor 1, having made the space to get at it!!). Again, got that at same time from Rockauto for £5.40 where Lexus want £26. The PCV valve being gummed up can lead to a bit more exhaust smoke. Out of interest here are Newbie's guides relate to his 2007 model. Newbies guide for Bank 2 Sensor 1 is within the above post. This is the best place to look as all the photos are present. Unfortunately much has gone awry in the "How To" section after the last forum update .... most pictures have vanished. If i discover any differences on a 2010 model I'll put up a walk thru with pics. The only thing I've found thus far is that the sensors have a different reference number. Maybe some modifications were made to the facelift version. The Bank 1 Sensor 2 and Bank 2 Sensor 2 units are tricky'ish to do as they are essentially under the floor and will require lifting of carpets and moving of seats to get at as they the looms pass through the floor of the car via a weather proof grommet to connect into the exhaust pipes. I hope that info is of use to some of you. Happy New Year to all and here's hoping 2017 will be a good one for all. Right, need a cuppa now!! A B

+1 to all of that what Shahpor said I would add... those bolts on the back of the head are pretty tricky to get at without a good range of sockets and varying extenders as the battery block kinda gets right in your way. If you go gently you can bend the top pipe up enough to clear the posts and get the EGR out. Clean it thoroughly and check that the piston operates and seats correctly. Once you've done it first time its peasy....and do it every 5-8000mls if I were you. I know....i had a 220d in a previous life!

Have a read of this splendid piece of work. Does seem a bit high on price. If it has Nav check that screen is fully functional. Early ones had some breakdown issues. If it's SEL check the rear sun blind a few times to see operation is good.

I'd agree with trying a detailer first. It is amazing what can be achieved with a machine polisher and the right selection of polishes. Those pictures above tell you what you need to know.

There are 2 sensors. 1 at the front and 1 at the back. These pictures should help you. Mine went screwy a couple of weeks back after discovering a horrendous pothole in the dark. The light beam dropped there and then and would not level afterwards. Set up a image screen at work and adjusted both sides and now all is good again. If you need the set up imaging I have it on file on my PC. Just shout.

I use the Archoil AR6200 at 1ml per 10 litres of fuel. At current prices its around 16p per ml. They do good discount offers from time to time It seems to last for ages. From here. http://www.powerenhancer.co.uk/archoil-ar6200-fuel-modification-complex-high-concentrate.html They also supply the BG44K and AR6400 bulk petrol/injection cleaner. I put a tin of BG44K in to a tank refill (50 litres) every 10,000 mls. Varies from £16 to £20 a tin. Halfords also do some similar products from the likes of Wynn's.

Do you know if it worked from day one? When you say its given up....is it not demisting at all ...or are there patches/lines that are clearing? The very top few lines won't as they form the aerial for the radio. The door mirrors and HRW operate at the same time. Door mirror misting can be seen evaporating off pretty quick on mine...its obvious if they are working. If it's patchy on the HRW you could try having a looksee. Any evidence of any stickers being removed prior to your purchase? Could there have been any after market tints removed? On a close look any signs of breaks in the element? These are just best guesses at this point. Don't go digging around too much as I'm guessing you still have an active purchase warranty period in force. So let them sort it after Christmas break.

Paddles .... IMHO they are very useful when you want to nip past a slower vehicle. By using the paddles you prevent the auto box making any unwanted gear changes...you remain firmly in charge of what happens and when. Makes it all like having a manual changer for a short while. You can use the stick selector as well if you'd rather. I use them pretty regularly and wouldn't be without them.