normski2

Yep

The usual type of wipers, generally speaking, are like this. I understand that Denso are the OEM type (and 20" and 22" in length) You can find them here... amongst other places http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161166354966?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Here's a thought. Wonder if it's possible to take the light pack from this to repair yours. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LEXUS-RX300-350-400H-DOOR-SILL-TRIM-PLATE-ILLUMINATED-FRONT-DRIVERS-SIDE-OFFSIDE-/371855075179?hash=item56944a276b:g:MVAAAOSw4shX76iw Might do it. In the first instance I'd want to have a look under your current sill plate to check the connectors are sound. Can you swap them across the car sides? I recall the is200 had a transformer wired into the fuse box in the footwell each side. One of those went on mine. It was somewhat swollen. I only discovered that when I swapped the plates over side to side as the dud one worked fine when swapped.

You'd need to check with seller if it's illuminated type and what colour it is. But there is this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LEXUS-IS220-IS250-DRIVER-SIDE-FRONT-DOOR-STEP-SILL-TRIM-PANEL-/222350917736?hash=item33c525c068:g:LaMAAOSwo4pYV-~K I recall seeing a set for £326 from the Lexus outlet on Ebay at one time!!

I don't think it is a bulb as such. Certainly on my old is200 Sport it was a active LED strip with two wires attached to it. Mine went on one side and I could not fix it by any method. Perhaps keep an eye on Ebay. Check the colour though they're white on my car. The is200 ones were a bit temperamental to water ingress, but i thought they had been much improved on the Mk2 IS.

Do you think the windscreen is original or might it have been replaced at some point? I've heard of occasions where the fitter has not refitted the sensor patch correctly. There is a smallish yoke piece that pulls down to the bottom of the windscreen, in a fashion that is parallel to the windscreen. This allows the back cover piece to be gently pulled back to reveal the sensor itself. It should be tight up against the glass. Don't suppose its hanging loose by any chance? Trust you're enjoying the 250 having had the 220d.

It appears, from the label that it has to be introduced via Toyota Fuel Injector Apparatus ?? ...... whatever that is. The bottle I looked at implied it was for Diesel engines. Yet their website implies use on Petrol and Diesel. Maybe this one is literally .... injectors only then. You could always try BG44K from Powerenhancer. With that, you just pour it into the tank and then add 50ltrs of fuel. The contents certainly make the Toyota stuff similar to BG44K. Pretty sure Wynn's Millers and Redex all do Petrol System cleaners too.

You can view past brochures on the lexus.co.uk site. Go into Owners then Overview then Past Lexus Brochures. Searching the 2009 listing showed the LA00 interior leather is called IVORY. Hope that helps Oakham, as I remember applied to the is200/300 up until 2005

Had mine refurbed a few months back. I'll admit I don't know if the caps are the same on your 400 as my 250 but this is what I did. I was in a similar type of quandry regarding the centre caps. I did not want the refurbing to colour over the chromed (albeit plastic) Logo. They said if I got the Logo off they would do the caps to match the wheels. So, what i did was take each wheel off one at a time and prise out the centre cap with a large flat blade screwdriver. Work around the circumference gently prising and the cap will pop out quite readily. Then put the wheel back on and proceed to the next. Soon you will have 4 centre caps to clean and inspect. I found with mine that the sprues of the plastic (think there were 4 or 5) casting for the Logo are inserted through the cap and swaged (a bit like the fattening of a rivet) over from the rear. Gently prise away the fattened plastic with a chisel or other sharp tool and the logo becomes loosened. I then used a thin butter type knife blade to slide under the Logo and release it completely. When I took the car to the refurbers I presented the caps in a bag and they did the refinishing of wheels and caps. Then I took the caps home and re-inserted the Logo back into position. It could only go one way due to the sprue positions. Then I used a hot melt glue gun to put a good blob of glue over the end of each (now a little shorter) sprue projection. The following day I just pushed the centre caps gently back into place. You could, by all means, use a more permanent type of glue such as Araldite or similar if you wished. Hope that helps Worked a treat for me.

In the interests of filling in any blanks:- Had a check back on the Rockauto website and O2 sensors are Bank 1 Sensor 2 & Bank 2 Sensor 2 For 2006 -13 vehicles ... Denso 234 4521 . These are the shielded type and require lifting the carpet to expose the floor grommet and wiring/connector Cabin Filter Obtainable from many sources Ebay, Eurocarparts etc. Can be as little as £6. Make sure you take note of the fitting instructions on the forum ... you must set the a/c selector to 'recirculate' so the filter cover lid is raised and the filter visible.

Sorry, but I have to disagree with you from my experiences. My car is 2010 facelift. Kerbing was nothing to do with the peeling. The finish was peeling from the back edge of the spokes and bubbling was in places where there was no damage at all. My is200's ( 2001 and 2004) had dreadful peeling and bubbling problems. They were replaced by Lexus with brand new wheels on the 04 ... they too peeled and bubbled after 4 years. I know because I saw them later as the car is local. My is220d (2007)had peeling finish on the alloys too. I have seen far too many Lexus' with alloy defects to think they have sorted this. From what I see nothing has changed. Lexus now even try to worm out of replacing wheels under warranty

Lexus cannot and never have, as far as I've seen, been able to get decent alloy wheel sets. Had all 4 done last year. They had suddenly become really quite dreadful in appearance. You could literally peel layers of 'foil' off each spoke. Full acid strip, repair a few minor kerbings, repaint and clear coat, all baked, balanced and refitted. They look the dogs now.

I'd endorse what Steve2006 says. Show any potential repairer that the paint is a pearlescent finish and ask them if they are confident of repairing it correctly. I've got the same finish and a couple I contacted said straight away ... No can do. I thanked them for their honesty and moved on until I found one who instilled confidence. Don't go the insurance route it's not worth the pain.

British drivers heading to the France capital are advised by the RAC that driving without a France 'clean air' sticker – which costs as little as £3.20 – makes them culpable for an on-the-spot fine of up to £117. Petrol and diesel cars registered before 1997 are banned from the capital between 8am and 8pm Failure to display a sticker will result in a fine of €68 and €135 (£58 to £117) UK registered cars can be driven without one until March 31 A sticker costs around €3.70 (£3,20) – or €4.18 (£3.60) including postage Drivers of non-French-registered vehicles though, have been offered a degree of leniency – given until March 31 to fully comply with the Crit’Air initiative. An English language section of the government website responsible for stickers launches on February 1. The scheme in Paris began on January 15, while those in Lyon and Grenoble have been running since the start of the year. The Crit’Air initiatives require all cars, motorbikes and lorries to display a windscreen sticker relating to their green credentials. Read more here:- http://www.rac.co.uk/drive/news/motoring-news/law-change-for-uk-drivers-in-french-cities/ What's the betting the gendarmes will be on the lookout for GB cars??

No, there was no additional customs fees levied by the carrier. Delivered by FedEx to the factory. In very quick time too. I literally chose the parts, stuck 'em in my trolley and then paid the cost of each part and $12 carriage. They arrived 10 days ahead of anticipated del date. I did wonder about getting nobbled for customs duty. I had seen ads for the sensors on Amazon and Ebay for eg. The unit price was a lot higher though, carriage per item of $18 and a further whack of $30+ was added for import duty. At least it was all declared on the adverts!! But it made each part almost as pricey as the UK. I think Noobie found the same when he got his sensors from Rockauto a couple of years back. Rockauto do say ..."you may be charged import duty" on their website at check out point. I found them to be very good and a speedy service. Like all these things over a distance ... you just need to do a few checks that you are getting the right parts for your particular model. The sensors for my 2010 model were different part numbers (and they look different too) from Noobies 08 model. I did a crosscheck with the Denso website to ascertain that I was getting the right parts for my car. All 3 parts are fitted and the car is all tickety-boo ...well pleased. Fingers and arms get a bit mashed though in doing those sensors!!

Hi all, I've recently purchased some service parts for my 250 from Rockauto in the USA. It was the PCV valve and both Upstream Air/Fuel Sensors (often referred to as Oxygen Sensors). They were much cheaper from Rockauto than trying to buy them within the UK or Europe and carriage was very reasonable at some $12. The only thing you need to be aware of is the fluctuations in exchange rates. But you can view the prices in £'s so it's all quite clear really. Having done this they have now issued me with a discount code to get 5% off any online purchases up to April 2nd 2017. The code can be used by anyone...I quote from their email ... "The discount takes 5% off our already-low prices. There's no limit on order size or the number of orders. Use the code for your next order, and share the code with anyone you know who works on cars or trucks " If anybody wishes to take advantage of this, send me a PM and I'll pass it on to you Here's a link if you want to have a look at their site http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus Just select your model year and then the model. Cheers Normski

Confirmation of A/F Sensors and PCV Bank 1 Sensor 1 Denso 234 9048 Bank 2 Sensor 1 Denso 234 9068 PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Valve Standard Motor Products V540

Changing the sensors and PCV valve on a 2010 is250 Mine is the SEL ML HDD Nav variant. So the parts duly arrived from the USA via Rockauto in NY. Very speedy service too!! First thing was to remove the three engine covers and also the main one in the centre. The battery and components are all removed in the same process as described by Noobies excellent guide. I had copied and printed and laminated the sheets for guidance. That way they will stand up to greasy hands and can be used again if required. Those connectors into the electronics box are right little so and so's to free up. There is a large one on the right and two on the left side as seen in the photo below The grey one on the left is conventional squeeze and pull off. The other two (as noobie points out) are somewhat different. You will need a short and small (4mm) flat blade screwdriver to prise up the little black tag. They need to come right up before you can start to lift the securing bar. This white bar has to to come up to 90º as shown on the rhs connector in the photo. This partly frees the connector but they are quite a grunt to pull right out ...and you are always thinking to yourself ...go easy don't break anything. I actually used a larger screwdriver to help prise the connector apart from the electronic box. I laid everything out on the floor in order of how it came out to help with reinstatement. There is a loom wire attached to the tray and that is a bit of a toad to squeeze at too. I found the only way i could do it was by lifting the tray upright and squeezing the tabs with long nosed pliers. I had dosed the sensors bases with WD40 a couple of times and hoped it would soak in. So I figured I'd crack on with the PCV valve first. With all the battery parts removed you can get at the valve very easily. Squeeze the wire tag and slide it upwards and then gently pull the tube off and push it out of your way under the bulkhead. Its a 19mm spanner job. A tap with a hammer on the end of the spanner had it moving. It's pretty tight though! That's the new pcv and the old one removed. The part number is that for a 2010 model. Think it covers 08-12 models IIRC. The valve should rattle but mine sounded nothing like the new one. Bit of threadlock and then refit ...simples!! New pcv fitted (sorry the pic is sideways, it wasn't when I uploaded it) All connected and pipe and tag secured. Then it was on with the sensors. For the 2010 model with Denso sensors the Bank 1 Sensor 1 is part no 234 9048, and the Bank 2 Sensor 1 is part no 234 9068. This is different to Noobies and I don't know if his would have worked in my car or not. But this is what Denso and Rockauto indicated for my car year ... so who am I not to listen. They are nicely packed and are supplied with a little tube of copper grease to apply to the threads and have threadlock pre-applied at the seat of the threads by the compression washer. This shows the part numbers together with the old sensors. The cables are different lengths. I guess 9048 could be used for both, but 9068 will not fit on Bank 1 ... it's too short by 50mm. Bank 1 Sensor 1 The 2010 vehicle differs from Noobies in that there is no fuse box to move out of the way on the drivers side. It is pretty restricted access even so! I had purchased a sensor socket from China beforehand (£3 delivered), and you will need on of these! They are a 22mm fit and are slotted to accommodate the connector wires. There is also a 3/8" square drive at one end to connect, via an adaptor, to my 1/2" drive socket set. I needed two extensions and a universal drive (to get the angle of attack correct) to get clearance above the engine components. There is no room to get any push lower down and you will end up pulverising your fingers. And you are going to need them for the second sensor!!!! It was a hell of a grunt to get the old sensor to move but it only takes 5mm of movement and it's spinning freely by hand. The actual wire connectors are awkward to undo as you are relying on feel. I had an inspection lamp and a mirror on a telescopic handle that proved invaluable in seeing what the heck was going on behind the engine block. So this is Bank 1 Sensor 1 finished. Bank 2 Sensor 1 This is a right pig to do ... sorry, but that's the truth! Access is incredibly restricted and your arms and fingers will take a bit of punishment in the process. Perseverance is the ticket!! I had to cobble up an extension to the t-bar to get the leverage right. Then the relief when the thread goes is immense!! There then follows the same PITA trying to get the wire connectors apart ... and then back together after fitting the new sensor. That's Bank 2 done! Then put all the tray, electronic unit, plug connectors, tray base, battery, battery shroud, cable clip and connect the battery. Having turned the ignition 'ON' there followed a brief bit of computer loading on my screen (I have the nav/reversing camera option) then all systems were ready.....Started first time. Radio stations were all lost ... no biggie really. [There is no radio code to be concerned about] Clock will need resetting Window switches did not need re-syncing ... maybe something changed on the facelift variant! A/C had to be reset to Auto [as it defaults to 'off'] ... at least that's what I have it set at Cabin temp setting was unaffected as were audio preferences (Bass, Mid, Treble etc) Navigator cursor defaults to showing North Which was a weird ... only spotted this driving home across the heath .... sideways!!!!!!! Tap the Compass pointer with your finger and it reverts to 'ahead' view. No idea why ... but the rain sensor for the wipers seems to working much more sensibly than it had before ...puzzling, but I'm pleased about that. Won't know much about mpg for a while as the ECU will start its learning sequence all over again over the next couple of hundred miles. What is immediately noticeable is the reduction of smoke from the exhaust, and the smell of petrol vapour has completely vanished. Seems smoother and quieter but not hugely ... could be placebo effect. I should not have driven the works van in the morning ...that probably did it!!! Whole task was around 3 hours ... Including a much needed cup of tea at the end!

Thanks Wish I'd had some plus gas then ....damn. I was a little concerned that I loaded all the relevant tools in the boot! There was little in the factory of help as are a 'woodworking site'. I knew from my own extensive searches that it would be helpful to have as much info as possible in one post. Hence the amalgamation of sources.

The parts all duly arrived from the US. Very quick turn around by Rockauto... and did not get walloped for any import duty. It's been raining all day so I put the car in the factory when the lads knocked off at 2pm. Started at 2pm and restarted the car at 4:30 pm. Both upstream sensors [Bank 1 sensor 1 and Bank 2 sensor 1] changed, and the PCV valve too. Noobies guide is excellent to follow..... Big thumbs up from me. Couple of little differences on the facelift version. I'll put up some picks and a walk through soon as. The hardest part of the whole process was loosening the original sensors so they could be removed. By heavens they were right little so and so's. A pipe extender that fits over your socket handle will come in handy. I had sprayed them a few days before with WD40 too! You have so little room to manoeuvre in there. Expect to curse and cuss a bit. The cost was £190 for both sensors, the pcv valve and carriage. I've noticed the parts have gone up over the last couple of weeks as the exchange rate has worsened. Still, better than £600+ charge from Lexus dealership. Its a no brainer to do the pcv valve while you're doing Bank 2 sensor 1 as you have removed everything that is in your way. My old pcv was certainly not as rattly as the new one...most definitely gummed up a little bit. On start up the engine was noticeably smoother and quieter. Having parked her outside in the rain it was very obvious that there was pretty much no smoke from the exhaust pipes. And none seen when reversing back up my drive 30 mins later. Anyway, i'll put up more later. Happy days

2010 model on 18" rims Tyres ... On the front rims I have Goodyear Efficientgrip Performance ... very pleased with them (and no tramlining) On the rear rims I have Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2 .....again very pleased. Think they have been superseded by Asymetric 3 now though. Both sets have done just over 34,000 mls and still good tread left. Thoroughly recommend the DENSO wiper blades ... they are oem. HID bulbs ... very pleased with Osram Xenarc Cool Blue Intense D4S bulbs. Engine Oil ... currently using Castro Magnatec 5w30 Sidelight .... Metal bodied Cree type led from Ebay Interior ... 5 SMD type from Ebay Boot and Rear Seat Dome .... Festoon SMD type from Ebay. Puddle light ... 5 SMD led's from Ebay ... 23-25mm length max. Reversing light .... 50w led Cree bulbs from Ebay Fuel Additives ... I use Archoil AR6200 every so often at 1ml per 10ltrs of fuel. About every 10,000 mls i put a can BG44K in the fuel tank as a fuel system cleaner. Air/ Fuel and O2 Sensors ... just got some DENSO items via Rockauto in the USA. Also got a PCV valve. Will advise soon

Hi Regin and welcome to the Lexus club If you are at all handy with simple tools then you can clean the EGR yourself. At least then you know that is not clogged at all. Here is a good Youtube video to guide you.

Yes, the calipers are an issue. The Slide pins need regular greasing or they are liable to seize. TBH I would expect to have a good clump of receipts with any car. I have kept a file for my car that I would pass on if I ever sell it....but its a keeper. I too came from a is200 Sport. IMHO the 250 is way ahead on every level. I was about to suggest you read Noobies post ... but I see you have.

Hope you are looking at the auto box versions. What year are you looking at? Any particular model ... SR, SEi, SEL etc. Generally, road tax is cheaper on the auto box variant. Manuals can be £495 pa although early ones are I believe £295. The Autos are £295 pa road tax. Spark plugs are not an issue as such .... there is no problem with them. Spark plug change can be a large expense though .... around £600. But, they should be done at 60,000 mls or 6 years whichever comes first. The service history should reveal that to you.

Maybe you missed this reply above?