normski2

Mine is in today for the airbag job. I did mention that the dash is silent and there are no rattles/pops/cracks at all from anywhere around the dashboard. I have two videos to back up my statement too. Hopefully I won't be needing to produce them. Should get her back tonight all being well. Have a brand new IS300h to get to work. Very nice is is too. I still prefer my 2.5 V6 though, .................. but then I am very accustomed to its sound and performance.

I fully agree with the above. I had a 220d some time back. Had to have new engine,egr and dpf within 3 months of ownership. Not a particularly good start. Only consider a diesel if you are doing serious mile munching on the motor way network. Most auto 250's will return a very similar mileage. The gearbox in the diesel is a bit 'agricultural' and the ratios are a bit odd. I found 6th utterly useless unless you can do above 85mph. I now have a Auto 250 (had it for quite a few years) every day I drive it is an absolute pleasure. Try a 250 Auto. I think you'll be amazed. I get 31mpg around town and 36 to 40 on an extended run. Not too shabby for a Auto V6!! Good luck with your search, try as many as you can .... be patient and get the car you want not what some dealer wants you to have. I'd say get a 250 auto ... but I will freely admit I am biased that way.

One to add to the list Newbie. Don't think there are any batteries shown thus far. Battery For IS 250 There are quite a few to choose from, in my experience this is a good one. Bosch S4 026 068 (comes with a 4 year guarantee) Length 261 x Height 220 x Depth 175 Whichever you get, insist on a type 068. A lot of places will default you into a type 069 .... DO NOT GET THIS ... the contact posts will be at the front of the battery. The wiring loom is severely over-stretched ed to attach.

I'm not aware of any codes being used.

I saved this in my Lexus folder links when I read Noobies account of overhauling his mirrors. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221784846313?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D221784846313%26_rdc%3D1 Perhaps see if he concurs this is the correct type. Certainly looks right .... but as they say .... looks can be deceiving.

Yes you did, the upstream was the 2 sensors left and right of the engine block. That was the ones you sent me the video of. It was the downstreams that you didn't do as they are under the floor where the front seats are located.

Behind the drivers side abs cover panel, above the pedals, pretty much in line with your knees. Assuming its the same across all years

I had a 'wrongun' from ECP for an MX5 a few years ago. To their credit ECP changed it without question. Only bind was having to go back to store to get it swapped. I find you do have to double check approved fitments from just about anywhere as some details that are accessed in good faith by these companies are sometimes proved to be wrong. I generally go armed with what I know to be the correct detail now. Last weekend Halfords tried to sell me any old coolant, despite asking for 'FL22' type for wifeys newer MX5. Their booklet said they were right ...they weren't.

Eurocarparts are offering 50% off a whole stack of useful kit until Sunday 3rd September. Just enter HOLIDAY50 into the coupon area when you view your shopping cart. I've just grabbed 1x Air Filter and 2x Active charcoal Cabin Filters for £30. Bargain or what?? Also grabbed a full set of brake pads (trying Pagid this time) as they will be required in the next 5000 mls or so. Then guilt got the better of me and I got a full set of Brake pads and an Air Filter for Sal's MX5 too. I don't particularly need them right this minute, but hey, they can sit on a shelf in the garage until spring ... when they will be required. I have no affiliation with ECP ... just sharing the chance to save a bit of dosh.

Exactly what Admiral tried to do to me. Told them to do one at renewal point. Its a load of 'dangly bits' ...can't put the word as it will likely be auto censored ... but you get my drift.

Shaun (newbie) and Garry are bang on here Rishi. Lexus don't look at calipers or slide pin greasing .... they just want you to buy a new set. Mate, you did both Upstream oxygen sensors .... this will be a walk in the park for you. Just be methodical and take your time and before you know you'll be checking them every year. The more times you do it the easier and quicker it gets. Just make sure you get the correct Slide Pin grease and smallish tub of copper grease (you can get it cheap enough with Free P&P from Ebay) for the shims (each side) and a wee bit where the brake pad sits into its holding spring clip on the caliper. Incidentally. You can have a seized slide pin and not know it. That's precisely what my rear lower slide pin had done. It was seized in the 'out' position so did not allow the caliper to close onto the disc ....allowing the wheel to spin freely. Read this via Shaun's post....it's spot on and extremely instructive. Get cracking and let us know how you get on. You'll be glad to have it done and know it really has been done properly. Keith

Not totally sure but I think it was dropped on the later models.

Quite right.....top guide. I bet there is fair bit of muck in there stopping them operating properly.

About 4000 mls Washer is already on it

This was my PCV. Standard Motor Products from memory. About £5 or so. You could try attaching crocodile clips to the wires at the top of the sensor. I wouldn't let that stop me from changing them though. You'll be pretty hacked if you get the VSC and limp mode when they give up at a later date. If i recall correctly they are scheduled for changing at around 80,000 mls.

Good man! Make sure you have Read Newbie's (shaun) guide first. In fact, print off some pics or view them on an Ipad or similar. They are extremely useful. The 22mm oxygen sensor socket ...you can get 1 from Ebay for £4 or so. Just seen this type ... rather than the offset type. May be a good bet and it will do the Downstream sensor too if the need ever arises. The downstream has a protective cowling around it. A strong socket set. You'll need an extension to reach about 600mm above Bank 2 sensor to get above the engine and surrounding bodywork/components. A length of pipe that fits over the socket handle, to give more leverage. Some Copper/Anti seize grease for the new sensors at the top seat of the thread. There should be some already on the sensor. Sprayed the old sensor threads with Plusgas/WD40 or similar for several days before you want to start removal. They can be little so and so's to undo. Method of taking pictures, more on bank 2 side, it helps with re-assembly. For the PCV you'll need a 19mm spanner and a dab of loctite for the threads. Just out of interest, compare the rattle of the new and old one. Oh, and a bradawl or tiny electricians screwdriver for the bl***y awkward connectors under the battery tray. A lot of patience .... and stay calm at all times. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

I understand your reservations. You know the Denso ones will be correct. China makes a lot of very good kit. Spencer Kelly's 'Click' programme on BBC1 has been an eye opener from time to time. The Denso type are sourced from Japan. They supply loads of kit to Toyota. Wouldn't it be ironic if they outsourced some bits to China? Are you planning on doing them yourself?

**** .... this is worth looking at http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2PCS-O2-Air-Fuel-Ratio-Sensor-For-2006-2009-Lexus-IS250-IS350-GS300-Denso-Toyota-/382205995519?hash=item58fd40a9ff:g:vs0AAOSw1blZnfx~ Message them to be sure they are correct fit. Even if they take a month to arrive it's darned good value. I've just made 3 Ebay purchases from China. One item was 10 days the other two were just under 3 weeks. Bought a fair bit from China not had one problem thus far. Great for LED bulbs.

The PCV valve is worth changing at the mileage. It's peanuts ... so why not? That is also associated with a smokey exhaust. If you do Bank 2 Sensor 1, then with what you have removed its a doddle to do. To do on its own its a bit of a PITA as its awkward to get at ... unless you have some crow foot spanners. I'm no expert but it sounds like your bank 2 sensor wants doing. That is the more awkward of the two upstream sensors. Bank 2 requires you to remove the battery, its tray and the electrical parts underneath it.If it were me I'd do both Upstreams. Bank 1 is Peasy by comparison. Take a read of the whole of that link I gave you .Both Newbie and I have put up pretty good work arounds and pictures. You should get all you need from that. You'll need that sensor socket also. I've shown pics and method for the PCV too. Just be wary of the add ons from buying through Ebay as it can jack the price up quite a bit.A lot of Ebayers will tell you there is $35 or more import duty to pay on top of postage. When I bought mine from Rockauto there were no extras at all...... maybe i was lucky.

Dan, please read as much as you can about the 220d on this forum. My honest and well-intended advice would be to look elsewhere. I had a 220d and now have the 250 Auto ... it's lightyears ahead on so many levels. My 250 returns an mpg very similar to what most people get from their 220's.

Assuming you have 2007 model . These are the indicated sensors for your car. Bear in mind there are Upstream and Downstream sensors. The Up and Down are quite different animals. Here is screen shot from Denso website for 2007 Lexus IS 250 Newbies part numbers look correct. It may be Lexus quoted you for Downstream sensors by mistake? Here's the screenshot from Rockauto parts in the USA, again for 2007 IS250 I've highlighted your upstream sensors

here ya go Look at the left hand diagram above. We have the 4GR-FSE

The v6 configuration has 2 'banks' of 3 cylinders that slant left and right. Standing at the front of the car Bank 1 is to the left and Bank 2 is to the right. Go back to the link I gave you and you will see some diagrams that should make it clearer to grasp.

Well done Dean. That's a good job to have sorted yourself. You've every right to feel chuffed with yourself. Lexus would charge £1000+ I would imagine. A link to the digitizer might be useful for knowing what type goes with your model year...for others with same year. Not sure if it's one type that will work with all model years or not. Probably not If I was taking a guess. If anyone wants to see some photos to enlighten a bit further. There is quite a good selection here on the USA Lexus forum. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-2nd-gen-2006-2013/610678-frozen-navigation-screen-fix-diy.html

Have you thoroughly checked all hoses are correctly tightened after doing your plugs. Air Filter box and contents all good? You could try a solvent clean of the MAF ... it won't do any harm to cancel those out of the equation. As far as I recall Lexus points towards changing the upstream sensors around the 80,000 mls mark. That's not to say it is mandatory as you will plenty of people going over 100,000 with no issues. I did both my upstream sensors a little while back. Think I was on 75,000 or so and the car was much improved for it too. I did these as a precaution and had noticed more smoke (at idle) from the exhausts. It was here if you want to have a looksee at what is involved