normski2

Bosch S4 068 .... perfect fit, price is great. Mine was about £78 delivered. +1 vote from me

I think.....if you are certain that you have dvd disc .. then you don’t have full postcode input. Think that only came with hard disc version, but I may be wrong. Thats a bit odd, given that you have other facelift features. Maybe your car is a midpoint facelift version then? Do you have a USB port in the armrest cubby?

No mine is Full postcode.....in the uk. But that is of no use abroad. You need coordinates over here in Spain

Reminds me of Cricket st Thomas. Ours is on hols too. Got off the ferry in Santander yesterday. Sat nav was faultless in getting to our apartment in the Picos de Europa. Using coordinates that i’d converted from decimal to degrees/mins and seconds via a converter. Happy holidays everyone!

Have you looked at the facelift version? It started in late 09. It will have the additional USB port in the arm rest cubby. This is how I connect my ipod to the car. Earlier vehicles only had a power outlet and a phono jack port.

Ebay is good for that. Typically, types as shown below Plenty of reliable sellers on there. £6 or so delivered 500gram tin...last ages. If you have not got any get some Red Rubber Grease too... for the caliper slide pins. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GRANVILLE-0149-Copper-Grease-Slip-Multi-Purpose-Anti-Seize-Assembly-Compound-500/362134613405?epid=2076442921&hash=item5450e7ad9d:g:TiMAAOSwzppZ5n9A https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REVOL-RED-RUBBER-GREASE-500g-BRAKE-CALIPER-REBUILDS-NEW-PRODUCT/391694432796?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

My Pagid pads do not squeal at all and never have done. Neither did my previous pads. I'm not suggesting the dust is a quality issue ... its just messy and irritatingly dirty on nice wheels. I'm guessing any pad has the potential to squeal if attention is not given to the number of shims and a smear of copper grease.

I've just fitted Pagid pads all round as well as replacing all 4 Discs (mintex). Found them to be just fine. My originals were 'Toyota' stamped and the fronts were very dusty (they do the lions share of the work). These Pagids, thus far, are distinctly less brake dusty. Front wheels are staying cleaner longer.

Oh very droll sir

Mmmm i know what you're saying. Did a similar run from Aberdeen to Bournemouth a few years back. Went to a family wedding at Drumtochty Castle. Very nice it was too. The journey in the Lexus was fab......so very comfortable. And at that stage I had a 220d!! It was fab on long runs.

It was widely used in the aviation industry. My father was using it back in the 1970's on cockpit windscreens on good old BAC1-11 aircraft! Wouldn't surprise me if its still used today.

Hope you get sorted real soon. These things can be mighty frustrating.

Yep, I coat the windscreen on both our cars. Have done for years. Wipe on thoroughly and then buff after 10 mins or so. Works a treat. I find it a good product.

I’m using a carbon version of the cabin filter, made by crossland, very good it has been too.

Meant to put these pics up a while back ... completely forgot. Must be an age thing! I've found these pouches work really well. You do need to ensure you place the fob within the inner special fabric pocket. If you don't it does not work ... that may be why some have said they found the pouch ineffective. Picture 1. Key in full view to the car as usual Picture 2. Key placed within inner compartment Picture 3. First you see me ... now you don't!

Dammit ... I stripped both mirrors right back to the bones recently to overhaul the fold action motors. I disconnected the turn signal connectors to remove the rear cowl completely. Didn't even think about the bulb that was in there. I know for sure the puddle light bulb is the usual 501 / W5W bulb. Like this:- You'll also find LED bulbs used for the puddle light. Mine are this type (no more than 23-25mm total length) Maybe its the same W5W for the turn signal. I can't find any info anywhere about the turn signal bulb on any other sites either.

+1 to both of the comments above. Its highly likely it just needs adjusting. Unless .... of course .... it's been driven a lot with the footbrake engaged!! But you would hear and feel it when starting to move. I did it once to prove a point to myself. This paragraph from my recent discs and pads overhaul should help. Rear Discs/Brakes There is a rubber grommet fixed in the disc … this covers a hole for adjusting the parking brake. Remove it and keep it for placement into your new disc. Now remove the old disc. Mine were ‘frozen’ solid (both sides) and would not budge. So it’s time to use those 8mm bolts again! A snick and a snack and it’s loose enough to remove. Now clean the parking brake shoes and parts with brake cleaner. You will be able now to see the adjuster for the footbrake and how it works. These shoes are only used for parking so are highly unlikely to be worn. But you may need to adjust the shoe to the new hub. If you turn the cog wheel you’ll see the pads move in and out. When the disc is fitted that circular access hole allows for a screwdriver to enter and engage with that cogged adjuster. Shine a torch in there if it helps to locate the little toothed cogwheel. Turn the cog towards the front of the car (on both sides of the car) to expand the shoes and provide an improved parking brake.

All the vents I've seen have been the same. Mine is not damaged in any way.....you cannot move those fixed vanes at the top of the unit. That vent you've linked to (the fixed part) will not direct the air flow to the window. By the time you've positioned that unit to the far right of the dash where it sits you'll find the air flow is anything but at the window. You can see the fixed vanes are tilted to the left ... they need to be tilted to the right.

A couple of weeks back I noticed that the passenger mirror was a little sluggish in folding back to the car. Then a few days later it would only fold half way. Then the driver’s door mirror started doing the same! There are a couple of narrowish points on my way to work each day so I always retract the mirrors at this point to avoid any unwanted impact with other vehicles going the other way. The fairly regular sight of bits of mirror backings strewn on the road is a bit of a warning at these pinch points. Lexus mirrors are not cheap to replace! I could hear that the drivers door motor was struggling a little to perform the ‘close’ movement but was absolutely fine to ‘open’. I’ve taken the mirrors off before to maintain the interior and to change the piddle lights to LED bulbs, so that part I was comfortable with. Over the course of two evenings after work I sorted both mirrors. They are both now working perfectly. I started with the passenger mirror which taught me the process and figured I’d take photos to share when doing the driver’s door. All started well with 2 photos safely stored and then I felt a few drops of rain. Mild panic set in and all thoughts of photos were abandoned in the haste to complete the work needed. Apologies to all and my thanks and credit to Shaun (Newbie) for, hopefully, not minding me use a couple of his photos to explain the process. There is a really good guide to removing the mirror plate and servicing the mirror angle/tilt motors here…. all credit to Newbie. This will show you how to get it all apart with great photos. So, I removed the mirror plate as shown below. This exposes the 4 screws that need to be removed to separate the front and rear mirror covers. Careful with the front section as there are small grip tags that hold the front in place. In the second photo the back has been removed and you can see 2 small grip tags that locate the front part of the cover onto the internal body plate. So, front and back covers were removed. The mirror plate was taped to a sheet positioned in the window opening. You have to take the front housing out over the mirror plate. It just makes everything so much easier not to have any delicate pieces dangling around that distract from the job in hand. The puddle light was unplugged and put to one side. The indicator bulb was disconnected and the wire teased away from the foam glue pad holding it to the inside of the back cover. This leaves you with just the guts of the mechanism and the main body plate to which all is attached. I’ve borrowed one of Newbies very excellent photos to show the body plate and the position of the motor I worked on. The motor is indicated by the RED ARROW. There are 3 screws to remove that fasten the motor casing over the motor. On my 2010 model you need to give a bit of slack to the wiring loom or you won’t be able to lift the casing. Gently ease the casing upwards…it pushes down onto a rubber ringed water seal that grips a little. Now you need to be careful as underneath the round section of the casing is a small electric motor mounted vertically. The motor has 2 push in connectors on the top that locate into the underside of the upper casing. You will see the two feed wires that supply the motor. The drive shaft points straight down at the bottom of the motor and is about 20mm long with a locator drive cog up near the main body. The casing may well come up with the motor still attached … not a bad thing! If it does not you need to note where the tabs plug in to the upper casing and push them gently when you relocate the motor. First time I did this I inadvertently bent both pins flat!! If this happens just carefully pinch them straight with a pair of long-nose pliers. This is type of motor but the shaft is quite long and the 2 contacts are solid metal (there are no solder points) I put a tiny (and I mean tiny) squirt of WD40 onto the bearing point of the drive shaft (gave it a twiddle too to work it in) and a tiny bit of vaseline (with a blunted cocktail stick) onto the shaft location point and surrounding drive points. Carefully reassemble the casing over the motor and refit the 3 screws. I thought I could test the mirror action at this point as the motor wires are connected. NOT SO!! Nothing happens until all the wiring is re-connected when the mirror is back together! At least that’s what I found on my version. Whilst at this point I gave everything a thorough cleaning, including the mirror casing and puddle light closing flanges. Amazing how much crap gets in there! I also removed the plastic plate behind the mirror and lubed (tiny bit of Vaseline) the drive shafts of the tilt/angle drives. I also cleaned thoroughly and squirted a little WD40 onto the turntable point where the mirror body sits on its little stand attached to the door. The final bit is refitting the mirror plate. I put a weeny bit of Vaseline onto all four clipping points (the red circles) … just to help encourage the plastic faces to slide over each other that little bit. There is a bit of a knack to removing and refitting the mirror but when you've done it once it becomes easier. Remember to push with both thumbs against the mirror right where the lower clip in point is after you've located the upper clip in points correctly. This picture below from Newbies guide explains it all perfectly.....press thumbs where the 2 circles are. Fired it all up ................. and job’s a good’un There was an immediate difference with mirrors closing fully without any hesitation, albeit not quite as quick and not quite in unison. After 3 days they were working back to normal again in perfect timing. Two weeks later and all is still good. Happy Days!!

That's exactly how I was going to perform a slow process coolant change. The thought of getting air locks put me off draining and replacing all in one hit. BG I use too. Once every 10 - 12,000mls or so. We are also pondering a motor home (likely to be LHD for european trips) as retirement beckons. Then we have to decide which car to lose the Lex or the MX5 with PRHT ....aaaaah decisions!!! Cheers Keith

Blimey that's what you call Low Mileage ... and some!! Chain

It’s possible with my car. I can have 4 phones linked. Not sure if that applies to pre facelift vehicles though.

I found it made virtually no difference to mpg.

It has totally fixed it for me .... well happy! The upper vent won’t demist the side window as it does not direct air flow at the window. The larger vent underneath would clear the side window.

Having had my 250 for over 6 years there are very few things in the design that have either puzzled me or that I disliked. But, there was one that I became intensely aware of on a 7 hour drive in France. For some time now I've noticed a peculiarity in the direction of air flow from the fixed grills on the passenger and drivers side. The passenger side directs the air flow towards the window area whereas the drivers side directs the air flow straight at my right eye. These upper vents are permanently open. I'm thinking its a design fault on the drivers side that just wasn't picked up on ... but there is a simple cure if it bugs you at all. This is the drivers side grill with fixed grill indicated by the green loop. So I removed the side of the dash and extracted the grill. It comes out quite easily with gentle force and has one plug to disconnect for the motorised flap controlling air flow to the lower grill. I then made a blanking piece of black card cut to the outline of the pipe and neatly taped it over the rear opening .......... where the foam can be seen as indicated by the yellow loop. Put the whole lot back together and its worked a treat. No more dry, irritated, tired right eye..........RESULT!!! This has no effect whatsoever on the lower grill as the piping connectors are independent of each other. So you can still direct air flow wherever you wish with this lower vent