rob_clio172

Got nothing done on the car this weekend but there is a good reason why, i was working yesterday and today ive been doing this ....... Me and the wife made this whilst being pestered by Honey, she just keeps staring at it when she goes in the garden now 😂

Cheers Farqui👌

Well santa came again today, been to mine a fair few times recently 😂 this is quite possibly the one thing ive been most excited about!! I ordered this around 4weeks ago from a company called madcat industries. Its a 2jz-ge inlet manifold, comes with a fuel rail, 90mm throttle body (HUGE) and all the fixings, o-rings, blanking plates and brackets. It really is a work of art, that throttle body is so god damn big!!! The quality of it and the welds are amazing! I really cannot wait to see this lot thrown together and how it will look in the bay

Im not a fan of mad extreme kits on supras just because of how they came from factory is just pretty much perfect. On the other hand i dont mind some kits or wide arch conversions depending on the car and how its carried out, another update coming up....

Thats a stunner! Looks in great condition! And i spy a beetle too

Cheers muka, out of interest why did you get rid of the mk4 supra? TT 6speed manuals fetch big money nowadays. I would love a supra but the cost of them compared to the is300 is worlds apart....... but fully understand why they are worlds apart, very iconic car!

Hiya matey, the pistons just need the rings gapped, also need to check the wrist pin size in relation to the manley rod wrist pin bore. Rods are weighed and balanced when made/checked, manley hand write on the boxes the weight in grams of each end of the rod. The big end bores on the rods are also pre checked before they are boxed but i have also rechecked this myself and they are all spot on exactly 2.167"

Cheers matey 👍

Hey guys, got another small update from today. I made a start on the oil return in the secondary sump, the picture below shows where it is going to be fitted. This was pretty easy as i will just be using the blank part where the aristo return would normally be, thanks toyota 👍 Drilled a pilot hole then hit it with the cone cutter..... What im using is a aeroflow AN -10 female ORB weld on adaptor, this will then allow me to screw in an aeroflow AN -10 male ORB adaptor with o-ring. This was when i noticed a small ***** up, i had ordered a stainless steel weld on and the sump is alloy..... this was not going to work. I then ordered a new weld on adaptor but in alloy, luckily this was pretty cheap. This is how it will look........ And thats it pretty much until i get the new weld on and the rod bearings sorted. One last thing i did was just matched the exhaust manifold upto the cylinder head to tease myself ............ oh man it looks good!

Cheers muka, really enjoyed updating the thread, this is the interesting stuff. All the ecu locating and wiring stuff im going to try and keep short and sweet.

Thanks buddy👍

Yeah this thing is fast becoming a designer brand whore 😂 my budget also seems to be going out the window, this is going to cost me more than i anticipated 😂 ffs oh well this is what the tuning game is about i suppose, you only live once

Hey guys, well progress well and truly came to a halt!!! In 4 weeks me and the wife have had 3 birthdays, 2 weddings and a concert to go too!!!! 2 of the birthdays was mine and the wife's. So after last time i ordered new crank main bearings from toyota. I didnt replace all 7 journals just 5 that had very slight marks on them. Tbh i could have got away with re-using them but as im at this point i thought sod it just replace them. The other 2 journal bearings was completly unmarked. Also going to re-use the thrust washers as these was also unmarked and well withing spec when measured, 0.06mm measured and spec is 0.020-0.220mm. Finally done a little bit more today, got the block surfaces cleaned up for the head and sump, all silicone and oil removed. Also checked the block with a straight edge from work following the toyota manual and again all in spec, maximum allowed 0.07mm. The largest i measured 0.05mm at a push at 1 small part. Also cleaned up the sump pans, baffle and pick up pipe at work in the parts washer Also whilst all the madness of the last couple of weeks was going on i had some lovely parts turn up!! Got me pretty excited for getting this thing back together, santa really had come early! I had said in an earlier post i had orderd pistons and rods and arp studs. The wiseco pistons, arp head and main studs i did order but held back on the rods as i was having 2nd thoughts on the crowers. Heres the pistons and arp studs.......... ordered from garage whifbitz. A while back i also ordered my exhaust manifold which has also now turned up. This is a suprastore twin scroll manifold for the 2jz-ge with external wastegate port with a 44mm vband flange welded on.... looks absolute quality!! As we all know black friday has been and gone and could not resist getting a good deal, i looked absolutly everywhere for the best deal on the parts i wanted! I had now made a decision on the rods, i wanted manley H-tuff rods which are capable of 1000whp, so way more than what i want (at the moment) and sticking to the over engineered approach which toyota have always seemed to have took! I gave real street performance in america an email about the parts i wanted and some info on what parts would be best for my application, a guy called Robert Del Angel replied almost instantly which made me almost fall off my chair! Very informative and helped me out no end with quick fire emails back. On black friday night at 8:30pm our time i ordered manley H-tuff rods with arp 2000 bolts, brian crower stage 2 cams and brian crower valve springs with titanium retainers for a fantastic price matched by no one! By monday night 5:30pm our time they arrived!!!! Ordered from across the pond and arrived in 3days, 2 of which was the weekend!!! Faster than probably most uk companies could deliver not to mention cheaper than any uk company i looked at and i paid no extra for express delivery!!! I have never ever experienced customer service like this before, i emailed Robert back telling him that i had got the parts and even he was a little suprised, i also let him know how chuffed i was with his service! If only every company opperated this way. Here they are .... And the new rods next to the old 1s ...... huge!! Back to todays efforts i could now get the crank back in and new bearings with ARP main studs. I picked these up from toyota last week.... Got the studs fitted, bearings in and lucas engine lube applied..... Crankshaft then installed and main caps torqued down to 60ft lbs using the ARP lube... Thats it for now guys, hope you have enjoyed the update

97k its barely broken in, lovely cruiser

Sorry yeh i was meant to edit that after i posted, i edited some bits but forgot that, its 61.985mm. The engine has never been apart or worked, no tell tale signs of anything ever being done. Well i will be using different rods so rod bearings will definatly have to be changed. Aftermarket bearings seem to come in a "standard fitment" 1 size fits all which are meant to put you in the middle of the standard clearance range but i would rather use the toyota main bearings as the clearances can be fine tuned also they are proven to take abuse. Need to do some thinking on the rod bearings weather to use aftermarket or toyota.

Cheers 👍 there has been a couple of times ive sat back looked at everything and thought what the hell am i doing 😂😂

Small update from the garage, i now have crank removed. The bearings again are absolutly perfect no marks at all on any of them! Dont worry the crank has not been left on the floor either as i know they can warp, when ive not been measuring it its been back in the block resting. Now heres the strange bit, the bearings are perfect and the journals are also perfect but when measuring the journals with a micrometer my readings have been different to what was originally measured when assembled at factory. No much difference but for example : Journal 7 is stamped on the block as mark "4" which is 61.990mm - 61.992mm I have measured 61.885mm which would be mark "7" see picture below on the 2nd table (sorry about poor quality the forum has killed it) and this is the same case for all the main journals all under reading what the factory stamp says. Now i know this says its for 2jz-gte but my understanding is the block, crank and bearings are the same. At 1st i thought maybe its the micrometer but its calibrated and been set with the 50mm tool. So i then plastigauged it and low and behold every journal is slightly over the standard oil clearance, reading between 0.045mm - 0.050mm. Toyota says 0.026mm - 0.040mm std, maximum allowed is 0.060mm. Big question is, do i stick with this clearance as i know the crank and bearings are perfect after 12yrs and 28k and its under the maximum allowed? Or do i reset the clearances slightly lower into the top end of toyotas std spec? I say top end because its going to be hopefully running over triple the amount of standard power, not to mention the stress of boost pressure on the internals and extra heat generated and think slightly larger clearance would be beneficial. Need to do some more research and some more measuring to be 100% on this before i bang it back together. Going away from that i also made a start on locating the aem into the glove box, ive cone cuttered the inner wing for the plugs to go through and just need to order a grommet now. Had to remove the fuse box Heres the start of the hole i cut on the passenger inner wing into the footwell. Heres a view from inside The hole now is the same as the door loom grommet so getting hold of 1 of those will be prefect for it.

Absolutly love these barges, great example. How many miles does she have?

Thanks matey

Thanks matey 👍 no im not going to bother, theres no real need to add them tbh, many have done it this way without. Some people with higher bhp 2jz-gte's have also deleted the oil squirters to improve oil pressure. I will be upgrading to the GTE oil pump though. Ive also been toying with the idea of an oil cooler too.👍

So another weekend here and loads more done!! Finished off the loom, just waiting for some split corrugated plastic coating to come now... Once that was done i decided to do something about the shocking paintwork in the bay on the passenger side, i sanded the rust down from the battery acid leak and prepped the paintwork. Primer applied ....... ghetto style masking 😂 bodywork is not a speciality of mine so i was not expecting anything great but anything would be better than what was there before! Not great but alot better now. With that done i left the heater on it all day. I then started cliping the loom back in place and chucking all the little bits back in the bay on that side. I also managed to get a little more done with the engine, pulled the sumps off, oil pump removed and got the pistons/rods out of it. Engine is in fantastic condition! Not a mark on any of the rod bearings or the bores, no sign of any kind of wear. Not touched the crank mains yet as im waiting for plastigauge to come to measure oil clearances. Also getting a straight edge from work to check the block and bore gauge. Everything will be in spec but as im at this point it would be crazy not to make sure. Ive ordered some of the engine internals now wiseco pistons, brian crower rods, ARP head and main studs, looking at ACL bearings. Once thats done its onto the head, got some tasty things in mind for this too! Hope you guys are enjoying these updates 👍

Well ive had a very productive weekend and ive got loads done, more than i expected tbh! I continued sorting out the body wiring harness and the ecu box relocation. I managed to find some old brackets at work to secure the ecu box, all i had to do was shape them to hold the box and drill the holes to bolt them. The black bracket you can see here just needs straightening slightly. This is the top bracket which will secure to the fuse box bolting point. And this is how its sitting. Just need to remove the brackets now and spray them black to hide them. The next bit was mind numbing...... but strangely i had fun 😂 it was time to extend the harness. Here some stats as i like stats... 67 wires to extend. 134 soldered joints 134 shrink wraps 73 feet of wire (2,077 inches) 1 can of butane gas for my pencil torch No idea how much solder As you can see its not quite finished, i have 15 more wires todo but ran out of heat shrink and my pencil torch packed up! Once done it will be taped up and will cover it with some hard plastic split coating to protect it. The wiring has not cost me a penny, i got a complete vehicle body harness from work off a BMW F30 and just picked out the correct gauge wires (wasnt interested in wire colours) to match that of the wires on the lexus. This is the loom during the hacking. I also acquired loads of loom clips that pin the loom to the body as these will always come in handy. As this came to a halt because of the shrink wraps and pencil torch issue i moved on to the engine. Managed to get the head off pretty quick as alot of the engine was already stripped down. The engine was in fantastic condition inside which you would expect on a 12 year old engine with full service history and just 28k on the clock No signs of any sludge or staining Once the head was off i had a quick look at the pistons and bores and these too are in good condition. Not had the sumps off yet. And thats it for the weekend, looking to finish the loom some time in the week and hit it again next weekend.

You have done a great job of that it looks spot on!

The cross member will need some re working, nothing too bad though and will probably have to space the cross member out half an inch or so from the body. I had to use a w58 megan racing mount to bolt to the standard auto cross member

thanks matey. Do it!! i did look into the 6speed v160 as these can handle huge amounts of power proven upto 1000bhp but they come at a big price! i also looked at the nissan cd009 gearbox with a conversion plate as these too can handle big power but i would prefer to keep things toyota/lexus. The r154 can handle enough power for my goals although there has been people who have had these fail but this could be age and abuse related. Aslong as its treated with some mechanical sympathy i think it should be ok.