is200 Newbie

Check that the sensors that you replaced are tight and have not worked loose (worth a check) as this could cause an error and could cause a smell of fuel... You can, only if the exhaust is cold, but your hand over a tail pipe and see if the noise gets louder or the engine stalls (with the car in park) - you may need 2 people to do this on both exhausts at the same time. If the car runs on with the exhausts blocked then likelihood there's a hole in the exhaust. It the hole is small in the exhaust it may cut out or it may struggle to hold the revs.

You are not really going to gain anything from replacing the OEM with drilled rear discs - the rear brakes are not utilised as much during braking. You will probably find that the pads are the original ones so you can see the rear braking does not take a lot of the braking strain. If you want to do the discs then replace with OEM but while doing so do the drum shoes and the pads.

A couple of things .... check the rear screen demister wires are all intact. The wheels are not standard for the car. It should be on 17's and placing 18's on it will mean the tracking may need doing so check the inner of the tyres for wear (don't know when the wheels were added) One last thing that looks odd are the last two stamps in the book - is this a foreign car as the stamps seem to be foreign?

That's an average price as there are a few around these days - you can also look on Ebay and find them there. One thing you don't want is a part that requires any alterations to the flange where it connects to the centre piece of the exhaust as it is more than likely that the centre section will go next - look (if you can) around the centre resonator for rust around the pipes into and out of the box as they will generally go there due to a lack of a good support in that area. You wont get an exact replacement for your Lex, quality wise, as the exhaust systems installed on them are a higher grade of mild steel, the ones you will see being sold are of a lesser grade but serviceable none the less. Noise wise, ask the seller or manufacturer of it but generally a mild steel one will absorb the noise. Your other option would be a SS one which is dearer but would last the life of the car usually but be noisier than the stock one...

Approx how long did the full job take?

I have circled the air sensors and the approx. location of the air/fuel sensors in the engine bay - would give you a pointer in where to check. see image below ....

In your post you have stated that you have replaced the sensors ... Have you replaced all 4 or just 2 of them.. The Air/Fuel sensors are in the engine bay, the air sensors are on the exhaust. Highly unlikely the exhaust sensors have been damaged from the install of the new ones. My experience of a failing sensor is that it will initially go pending (will light up and can be removed) after a few days it will come back again and may be removed but after that it will come on and stay on, makes sense if its on the way out as it probably wont fail immediately. If you can, I would get it to the likes of ATS or somewhere and ask them to do an exhaust check - should only cost a few quid. If this is the original exhaust then it is ripe due to the age and mileage of the car. I would still get the fuel cap seal checked out as mentioned above as that's easy but for piece of mind do the exhaust as well. If the readings in comparison from both sensors, the air/fuel vs the air sensor are the same or the air sensor reading is higher then theres an issue with the cat or the exhaust between the sensors as the air sensor should have a lower reading than that of the air/fuel as the cat should be working right. The air/fuel sensor will adjust any anomalies with the reading from the air sensor until it reaches preset band of errors - if it cant then theres an issue. I cant find one at the moment but if you look at the mountings of the exhaust - I don't think they are sufficient - should the exhaust fail and drop at that point I would hate to see the damage that would cause.

For some reason I thought the fuel cap fitting issue was specific to the diesel where the system would lose pressure in the tank - maybe wrong - wait to see if any diesel owners chip in...

Take a look at the following web site - it will give you possible causes. See if you can narrow them down https://www.obd-codes.com/p0420 It does sound like an exhaust issue up towards the sensors and the only way you are going to find out if it is, is to get it up on ramps to see any indications of cracks or rest/soot marks. A lit warning on the dash is an MOT failure.

I have Khumo's fitted on all 4 feet of mine on 18's. I bought 4 alloy wheels from Lexus with the Khumo's on and was told that's the tyre they were using at the time. As for experience with them - have used them from new for over a year now and have had no issues with them. I don't do a lot of miles so I cant help with any indication of wear but over 7k miles, the wear is not noticeable

Does B have legal cover - also any witnesses or any note of any cars in the area at time of incident that you can possibly ask to see any dash cam footage. Do you have a dash cam fitted? Agree with all above - inform the police. You need to inform police and insurance - insurance will establish who is at fault in a round about way.

Anyone know if the engine oil acts as the lubricant for all of these pulleys (internal shafts etc) - I am guessing it does?

I am getting old ... I remember when bulbs were only a couple of £ ..... and it only took seconds to fit them !!!!

Search for this in the "How to guided" tab Wing Mirros - Auto Tilt feature

Also - its a good idea if you are going to be using any engine flush to make sure first that the filter cap can be released easily AND the oil drain plug can be removed easy.

Does this correspond with the work don't at MOT?

How was the battery charged - was it charged while in the car or taken out to charge - I am asking as the main fuse may have blown if the charge was made over the wrong terminals if the battery was in the car. You can try and disconnect the battery - leave for about 10 mins, re-connect and try starting again.

Looks quite clean - same spec as mine, colour, sunroof and age. Price is a bit steep for the miles it has done but I guess this will depend on the condition of the car - best to, like has been mentioned above, stand in front of it and see what you think. Age related marks I am guessing will be the biggest issue and a bit of wear to the front seats as you would expect. The sunroof is a nice addition and they are very hard to find. Definitely room for bringing the price down - exhaust / check around the water pump for a white crust / check the condition of the oil - all thinks you would expect to be ok as it has the service history to back it up. It has, throughout its life, had a hard time with tyre wear and the windscreen has been replaced - a couple of areas to check.

Thanks Linas .... the lights are actually dirty - haven't washed the car for around a month hoping the kids will do it as a christmas present !! It is only a low miler car and was garaged by the last owner who had it from new. I will look for some of the Osram ones as it seems to be a good brand and what everyone seems to use ... do you have a link to them?

Thanks for all of the info - I managed to have a look at the bulbs in the lights during the day time (have not really been bothered since buying the car) Strangely enough, and I have had an IS for 6 years now, I found out what the positions on the light stalk correspond to when turning them on - I knew what the positions meant but didn't know what position turned what light on... duh!! Number 1 is the LED bulb that someone has replaced and this corresponds to the position shown in the next picture - to be honest I thought it was 2 that was activated with the position of the switch The next position on the stalk activates the HID and keeps No 1 on. High beam activates No 2 (keeping the HID & No 1 on) - I get it now !!!! I like Leelaceys post on the fog light bulbs as they would match better the light from the HID, granted, there's a question over their efficiency in the fog. I am not really fussed on the high beam bulb (No2) as its hardly ever used so I will leave that one in. I will look to change bulb 1 to match the colour of the HID, or as best as. It is just too blue at the moment and does not have any affect at all - I thought it would fail the MOT to be honest but it passed... The Number 1 bulb in the picture is what everyone considers to be the sidelight?

Possibly the ECU adjusting to the slower driving

I didn't want to hijack the thread about LED lights currently active so I have started another one on the same lines. I bought my current IS back in Feb and I found out not long after that most of the bulbs had been changed (interior and exterior) I am a bit more concerned about the headlights. It has recently passed an MOT so not worried about the legalities of this .... The 3 different lights on the front are different colours - see images below. I would like to match them up better - I would like to keep the HIDS so would like to match the dipped which are shown as blue in the picture and the spots to the same colour as the HIDS. Does anyone know what the best type of bulbs I would need to buy to better match these up. The pictures are of the main beam side lights (or dipped) and spot lights. above light is very blue main beam and side light - I don't think they look right together main beam / side light and spot light

Fingers crossed

Agree totally with that and I knew there would be a major reduction for trade prices ... Could you guarantee the correct grade of oil being used - would a garage have the range of oils available for all cars? I actually buy the oil cheaper when it comes up on offer but you need to know when that is. The £60 for 20 litres is a good deal. If say I purchased one of these (if I found a supplier that would sell it at trade price) and used it for servicing my car, it would last just under 2 years as I do an oil change twice a year. Would there be any issue in storing an opened oil for that long taking into account the last use of it would be in a years time? Also - how much oil can really be sucked out of the engine using this method?

Was thinking the same as Peter as I had an issue a while back on a previous IS that sounds like your issue - a vibration that was only felt at around 70mph+ and a rhythmic noise at that speed+ which could only have been mechanical as it sped up and slowed down with speed. It did get worse over time and I investigated the fact that it could have been the drive shaft coupler which is only rubber but there was a lot of owners especially in the states owning other cars mentioning they had the issue and replaced the coupler and resolved the issue. However, turned out mine was associated to corrosion on the inners of the alloy wheels as I witnessed when the tyres were taken off. Once cleaned up the issue went away. It was associated to the wheels not very good at keeping their pressures. A picture below if of a coupler which could be your issue ?