is200 Newbie

This will be more often than not be caused by something being placed on the passenger seat. The sensor will sense a weight on the seat and if it does not see the seat belt having been applied then it will issue the warning 'Binging noise' It will need to have been heavy enough to set the sensor off.

If its the front then it could be one of the brake pad securing spring wires that has come off and scraping on the disc - you should be able to see if this is the case by looking through the wheel (depending on the alloys you have on the car) The rear shoes are tightened up by removing a rubber bung in the disc(with the wheel off), aligning the hole at the 9 o clock position and using a small flat head screwdriver inserted in the hole and turning the cog to the right. I put up a how to guide on this and should be linked on the forum front page

Is the sound from front or back ? When you done the rear discs did you back off the inner shoes and re-tighten? The slide/guide pins on the rear brakes that hold the pads in can get very rusted - if you didn't clean these then they could be stopping the pads from moving correctly. Also, is there any shudder in the steering wheel or the drivers seat when braking?

You can get them from the USA ebay site - plenty on there

There are two types - the one in the picture is the one I have that is secured onto two clips in the boot by the light cluster (a hook on each side) then held onto the boot floor through the plastic boot protector. Very handy for carrying things and holds quite a bit. The other one available is the boot floor net which is the one you have which is good for securing larger items in transit.

Just returned from a week in Budapest Almost one in 4 or 5 cars I saw was an RX of some sort of different years. 3 or 4 IS's and one LS - popular place for them...

They do still corrode - its the metal and not the paint that's the issue For examples just look through ebay for people selling them from their newer cars stating they need a refurb.

I change mine every 6 months or so along with an engine flush at the same time. Mainly due to the fact I do a low mileage and as John has said above it takes a bit of stress from the chain when the oil gets saturated, I usually do mine in November and in the summer. The first time I changed it with this car it was black and with each following change it has got lighter and lighter - I have used Castrols - My car used a bit of the Edge brand over a trial I done (had to top it up) over a 6 month period. I done the same trial with Magnatec and it was a lot better (I just done this out of my own curiosity). Have used Magnatec since but will be probably change the make at the next oil change. The oil is still clean, its not black but not transparent - more a golden syrup colour. I don't think its good to let it get to the point where its black as that's the point where its saturated and cant hold any more muck from the engine. Each car is different due to the way its driven but keeping the oil in good shape is a major part to a cars 'health'

I don't think there is a big issue in shocks failing ... certainly not a common issue

From what I have seen on the various forums and advertising on the web, the cataclean is more bias to using it to clean DPF's and some even state the cats as well - more for diesels than petrol. Some people have also stated that they suspected that the additive burnt out their lambda sensors. I can see the damage that can be applicable from the vapours released from these burnt and unburnt additives to the pre-cat sensors. Having seen this first hand with one I took out it did look like heat damage and sooty. But again, they are due to be changed around 70k and mine went around this time but I was also using the BG44 additive. The terraclean franchises I have contacted (two of them) do not offer a running report before applying the terraclean which makes me a bit suspicious really as there's no way of telling if there has been any benefit to the treatment as you cant compare a before and after reading. I will continue to use the shell petrol - only because that's the only garage that's local to me that provides a higher RON fuel. All the other garages around me are selling the standard 95 and I do believe that since I have been using Shell there has been a big difference in experiencing less of the carbon build up symptoms. I will use the supermarket fuel now and then but not on a regular basis.

I have used redex direct into the ports (spark plug sockets) on a car I had in the past - I let it soak for a while and then turned the engine over to expel the fluid. I can say it did work as it did throw out a lot of discoloured fluid and it did smoke a lot for a bit afterwards. If the plug removal was an easy job on these cars I would definitely give it a go but its not - maybe when I change the plugs in the future I will do it. There is an issue with these cars, not everyone has experienced it, with carbon build up - to best describe the symptom, the car shivers for no reason at all - may last for a few seconds or a few minutes. I have experienced it on mine and have used the BG44 fluid quite successfully and I do find it stops it for a while - I also use the Shell V Power which also helps. I only now experience the shiver very rarely but its still there. Hence the question about the terraclean as it has been reported it works but not knowing anyone having it done then it could be good 'marketing' I believe this issue is only applicable to the petrol engine

I do all four corners twice a year - doesn't take long to check and re-grease - saves the buggering about of un seizing them. I use the recommended Toyota red rubber grease found it to be ok so far

Coincidence ... theres no reason why working on the brakes should affect the screen (sat nav) but there a few things that you could try....(you may have caught a wire when hammering and caused a short?) 1. Disconnect the battery for a long period (overnight) then re-connect. 2. Have the car ODB scanned - it may indicate an issue connected to the fault but in having already disconnected the battery you may have cleared down the faults 3. There is a diagnostic sequence you can apply that checks out the audio / sat nav system - I cant remember it off hand (think its turning your lights on 3 times in a row in quick succession) there is a topic on the forum describing how. 4. Make sure you have checked the correct fuses - there are quite a few in the car - the user manual shows their locations. If you were using force when hammering then its wuite possible (maybe) that you have dislodged a fuse in its seat - check these are all tight..

Bought one of these from the states a couple of weeks ago - arrived today and its a handy piece of 'kit' to have as it fits very well in the boot. Holds a lot of 'bits' and stops them rolling round the boot.

Friend had a Nissan x-trail that they had work done on the diff and they filled it but they either didn't put the nut back on or it was not tight enough and when they got home they noticed oil on their drive (which is on a slope) It had to be trailered back to the dealer

The heat will work - if you have a plumbers torch then that will be ideal as the flame is small and you can control it better. It takes time and patience to free it. Its more than likely a lot of grease and dirt build up rather than its rusted in place. Tap it back and forward (left and right) while applying the heat but don't hit it hard - as soon as it starts to free up you will be able to move it by hand until it comes out.

Have they re-filled the dif - wont be the first time I have heard of it being forgotten ...

Not sure on the lights - I have seen these advertised on ebay as easy to put on??? - I am sure you will let us know. Might be good to check first to see if they are UK road legal? The spoiler, if it is a 3M adhesive backed one then all you need to do to prep the 'adhesion' area on the boot is to give it a good clean with some IPA and away you go. Mines been on over a year and still stuck fast.

50 miles on after re-setting the fault and it has not re-appeared Hoping for the best ..

Happy days ....

My car does exactly the same thing .. the best way to resolve this and it has worked for me every time is to tell your wife to stop driving it... Seriously - it does happen to mine but it just so happens that my wife will not drive it ... happy days !

so ... some digging has revealed that its either going to be an expensive repair or an instance that the error has been thrown up as a glitch of the system. The part, if that's the issue, will cost around £400 (parts and associated bits, oil etc...) but labour when added, I expect will be around £400 as its a diagnostic investigation is done first of a few parts first and then part replacement. I have also read that it could be due a dealer remap? Anyone heard of this being done or had done on theirs? Apparently this if FOC and clears the fault? Also another other option is to clear the code and pray its just a glitch thrown up by the system - I have read that water and condensation can cause this on the solenoid and throws up the fault but clears and its fine after. The ODB scanner allows me to reset the fault code which I have done as the first option so I will monitor it over the next week.

I have not done any research as to what this is yet - the forum is my first port of call before doing some digging. Got in car after work today at 5pm - sat parked up since 9 this morning. Noticed the dash 'disco lights' Check VSC / Engine and warning triangle. Code reads as P2714 - pressure control solenoid performance or stuck off ... Car drives as it should as drove 10 miles home. Question is .... what is this fault? Location of the part and any information to resolve it? Anyone had this fault reported before? thanks

I don't kneel on the seat when cleaning the interior etc for that reason - maybe being a bit too careful? There is a fan but before pulling things apart I would check the fuses for which there are many in the car - the user manual will let you know their location. if fuse ok then the next step I would do is to check any wiring connections around the seat area. Is the switch light coming on when you turn the cooling on/

It would be worth inspecting it if you know its still moving - maybe catch it in time before it does seize Suns out at the weekend .. allegedly !!??