is200 Newbie

Its the drivers discretion ultimately on whether they buy a part or not - the forum is here to give advice from people who have experiences in the faults other owners have or to give a good educated guess to resolve any issues. I have lived with a stainless exhaust for nearly 2 years and put up with if for this time as I did not want to spend the small part of a deposit for a new house to get an OEM one as no matter how nice the car is I will not spend that sort of money on an exhaust. Why wont Lexus release this as a pattern part to the 3rd party manufacturers - answer, its a very good revenue stream for them considering a majority of their users are business and will have no issue in spending this money on this part - it may be a part covered on a warranty plan and if that's the case the warranty, if it can be taken out after a certain age, is a very wise move but too late for me. Like Pete said above - the drone from them is bad. Its a novelty at first as you think everyone's looking at your car ... little do you know its the noise they are noticing and if you have passengers then its even worse, embarrassing !. I had mine up to temp this morning as I had putty repaired a few welds and needed it hot to set - its a common, very common, issue with stainless exhausts that they do not weld very well. May be good for a few years or so but you WILL have problems. Ask others with SS exhausts (look on other forums) - Ask an experienced welder! Anyway, when I was under the car measuring up I noticed the pipes were hot, yet the boxes were cold. They will not get up to temp quick enough to dispel any noise which I think Pete will back me up on - especially now in the cold weather and this is why they are noisy on start up - the boxes cannot absorb the noise. Once up to temp they they are good apart from the drone as I said before at around 2k revs - which is 70mph. Its from the boxes. Replace the boxes with a mild steel replacement (for which there are quite a few universal ones out there) and you will be fine. You will need to mod the pipe (add an extension or an adapter) and make sure the box hangers are located in the correct position. If it was my choice again, I would not bother - hence my final decision to get rid of this one. You can ask for a quiet SS exhaust but it will be as quiet as it can be made in SS but that will be loud compared to one manufactured in mild steel. If you can get the option for one manufactured in mild steel (a normal 3rd party manuf'd one) then chose that option. At the end of the day its your choice but in this instance I would gain as much info from people with these fitted as you can as every manufacturer of a stainless one will say theirs is best / quietest / cheapest - the cost doesn't matter if you are quibbling about £50 or so between them as you are looking for the quietest one.

They fit well.... but ....due to them being stainless steel they don't absorb the exhaust noise that well - SS is thinner metal although corrosion properties are much better than mild steel (they don't rust) There are a few points to consider. Stainless welds don't last - that's ok if you know a garage who can re-weld broken welds or you have a welder yourself. There's reports of SS cracking due to heat although on mine I have not experienced this. If its a freeflow which it more than likely will be it will create a lot of noise. The back boxes as they are not baffled enough will create a drone at motorway speeds or any driving around 1500 to 2500 revs. Its a novelty at first but after a few months you will be sorry you bought it, As its a naturally aspirated engine you need to consider keeping a bit of back pressure although this is a topic people agree to disagree on - some people think back pressure is good / some bad ... personally, having a SS exhaust fitted I am erring on the side it doesn't really matter although there must be reasoning for it as I would have expected quite a bit of development has been put into the manufacture of the OEM exhaust. My system is a stainless freeflow catback and while it got me out of a spot, like yourself unwilling to replace the middle and back section (at £2700) I had no other choice. Having the choice again - I would not have fitted it and looked for an alternative. I am at the moment looking to replace mine but out of mild steel which will be a better match. I have only this morning measured up all the parts required as I want to give it a go myself. If you have a look at the back section then you will see how easy it can be to put one together yourself if you are diy minded. I have been considering this for a few weeks now and it was only today I went under the car to get the measurements of piping and boxes I need. I also, saying about welds, noticed two welds with black soot round them and sure enough they were leaking. Now fixed with paste and clamps - its given me the drive now to make my own.

nice find - how many people will now be checking the history of their cars ...

Air filter replacement warning? Isn't this user based (info can be added to the maintenance schedule by the user on the head unit in that warnings/notifications appear after a set time when things become due such as oil change / brakes / air filter?). The fact that the warning has come up may be a bit misleading. Has it come up on the head unit or on the instrument cluster? I would side with Normski on this - and I would also check your fuel cap is on tight. The service you have had done may have dislodged some dirt when changing the air filter (if it was changed)

Diesel / short miles / loss of power / engine "hunting" / check VSC = DPF I have a petrol so have not experienced any of this but I have seen plenty of posts from diesel owners with these issues. If you do short miles and have not cleaned the DPF then I would recommend cleaning it (it does have one, unless it has been modded and removed) There are plenty of posts on this forum describing the issues and how to clean it. I have always thought that it would be a good idea for the diesel owners to purchase a spare DFP and just swap it out on a regular basis. Clean the swapped out one ready to swap it out the next time etc etc ... and do it on a regular basis.

Did you try your spare key ?

To be honest you would not have noticed the change if you had not pointed it out. Fits well with the covers on. What does it sound like/

It may be a UK part number - if I am correct in saying, these are US supplied only from Denso - if you go on their site or a distributors site then 234-9051 is a Denso OE part. The supplier should have however recognised the part number unless they don't want to reveal it to save people going direct to the supplier for these...? If you are unsure ask the garage that's fitting it to check the connection to the loom for compatibility. It should be a 5 to 10 min job for them to change this sensor out.

It looks like the correct part although a different make from the OEM Denso, expensive but like you have said you have paid for the premium delivery. I bought OEM from the USA but was prepared to wait the week it took to get here. Keep an eye out on the other sensor. Just check if you do need to order another one for Bank 2 - check the wire length. The Denso ones can be used either side due to the length of wire being sufficient. I am not sure of any other makes being long enough to do both sides. Are you fitting this one yourself?

To be honest, all I have changed has been wear and tear and easily doable yourself. Things wrong during ownership have all been (or most of them) expected failures from what others have had - a list of things below... Exhaust Rear calipers x 2 Front calipers x 2 - Although I done these as a precaution 2 x sensors (only one had gone, replaced the second as a precaution) DVD player is now not working Mirrors - tilt failed, now working The only two real costly things are the exhaust and the DVD player although I have seen DVD's on ebay for around £100. I find it easy to work on. Next jobs will be plugs / DVD if I can find one and to get the exhaust working right. You will always find things wrong with a car when you buy it as you really have no idea how its been looked after and if you look after it it will last you well. If you only ever do a service and a few checks on these then you should be motoring for a long time.

Looks like your air/fuel ratio sensor is on its way out Look at a post I put up in August last year on how to replace this - Bank 1 / Sensor 1 is the easiest one to replace. Parts will cost you around £160 (for 2 sensors or £80 for one) and fitting is easy, the only special tool you will need is shown in the guide (sensor removal tool) Get an original part (Denso) and its advisable to change both sensors although that's entirely up to you if you want to or not. Theres a recommendation to change these around 70k so it not really a fault, just part of the maintenance. If the fault has cleared and not come back on straight away then you might be lucky and it may have thrown a spurious fault to the ECU and hence the light coming on. If it comes on again (which was the case with mine) then I would look for a replacement sensor(s) as it will continue to come on / go off until it stays on. I ran mine for a week - short trips with the light on as I had no option but I would not recommend running it for longer period as you could ruin your cats. The exhaust tips on mine after running for the week were caked in soot. The replacement of this sensor is easy. The other one, bank 2 / sensor 1 is a bit more fiddly as you need small hands but do-able. I have put up a how to on that also. Lexus will charge you approx. £650 (the quote I had last year) for supply and fit. After I replaced mine the car was smoother and more fuel efficient so a worthwhile job to do. What's the mileage of your car? If you cant manage this job then it would be easy for an indie garage to replace.

Its not a quick fix - you will notice over a 3 month period or so, a reduction in the instances where it shivers. Then after that just make a judgement on when you add the BP Ultimate and maybe get into the habit of adding a can of additive every year. Might be worth you recording the times it happens just for re-assurance that what you are doing is actually helping to decrease the times it shivers. You will probably still experience it during the use of the additive and other fuel grade but give the additive and fuel a chance to work. When I done mine I used 3 tins over as many months but it did work for me. Also I did not dose the fuel up as directed (one can per full tank) I used a can per half tank and made sure I was not doing any long runs just so it could stay in the system longer. As for the higher ron fuel, this will have additives already manufactured into it. From a fill up with your BP ultimate (just make sure its 98 ron) you will definitely notice a difference after around 50 miles if filled up from empty. Difference will be in engine response. If you are not sure, try it in manual mode where its felt more.

Carbon build up - I have experienced this although my car is an IS and not an RX When I first had it I spent a lot of time looking into the cause - it was reported as a big problem in the states where they use a lower ron value of fuel than Europe .. it was put down to a buildup of carbon due to lower ron fuels being used. An upper rebuild of the engines affected cured this. How I have resolved mine was to use an additive - a lot of people report these to be a placebo effect - I used it along with changing to the higher ron fuels, filling up on alternate fills. It has worked for me - I used BG44 and Shell V Power.

No - bumper stays on - I have put a how to on how to replace the grill

You can buy a Bluetooth ODB reader from fleabay and download an app to run it - reader costs 10 £ and they are handy to have to read any codes for the future. The socket for this is under the steering wheel in the footwell. Have a look at item number 121762797822 If still getting it read by the trader make sure you see the codes stored as they may fob you off. Once cleared, if its a permanent error it will re-appear. If it does clear then it may be a gremlin but worth looking at the part the code relates to. Its a 5 minute job to check the code (if that) ... seems strange that the trader had no time to do it ?? Does your mate with the 250 have a reader?

Its not normal - if that was the case you would have disco lights on the dash every time you went over pot holes. Typical trader response now you have paid for the car. Yes - get the fault read ASAP as it could reveal an issue with something and if done early then you can go back to the trader pretty sharpish. Ask your garage to record the fault codes down for you (there may be a history of codes if the trader has not cleared then down before selling) Post the codes here and I am sure we will all let you know the best routes to take.

I would not worry about the calipers if its a deal breaker - you have said they have been changed last year. Do you have evidence of this or just the sellers word it has been done. Saying that, they are easy to replace yourself (no degree in mechanics needed!) It is a good idea and a recommended check to grease the calipers once you buy it only for peace of mind that it has been done as considering the 10 mins per corner it takes to do will save you a bill of £600 for 2 x seized calipers months down the line. Re-grease every year (every 6 months does not hurt at all) I am always wary of a car that's a low miler (depending on the car that is) as while its probably not been abused intentionally its more than likely not had the use it was designed for. Not trying to put you off at all - if the exhaust is rotted then its more than likely been used for short runs as it has not had the chance to heat up to remove any condensation and hence sat idle for a while and the condensation has had a chance to rot the exhaust. I am presuming the seller has given it a 12 month MOT ... don't be fooled by that as I have not long bought two cars for my kids and both, with a 12 month MOT on each, had things wrong with them that I had to question if it had actually been through an MOT or was it a case of a mate of a mate with a back hander type of deal ..!! Sorry - the exhaust is gonna cost you if its gone - the third party suppliers (ATS etc) cannot supply these as Lexus have not released the pattern parts in order for the suppliers to the likes of ATS etc to make them. I do not recommend a stainless one from personal experience as they are very noisy in the cabin but its a personal choice. £450 is what I paid for a centre and two back boxes in stainless and that was made to fit. I am actually looking to either replace this one with a used one or to actually change the resonator / boxes with a mild steel one sized to fit from another car not nessesary a Lexus. Not got anywhere with this yet though (not had time) Ask the seller if you can check the exhaust on a ramp - ask them if you can take it (as a test drive) to the likes of ATS or a local garage and get it on the ramp - the cost of 10 - 20 £ for this will be cheaper than replacing the exhaust if its gone and if it has and you still want it then it IS a bargaining point to bring the cost down. If you are not sure of the car in general, get an MOT check on it instigated by yourself and that may settle your decision with the specific instruction for them to check the exhaust out. Be aware also that at 60k there is a spark plug change required (although a lot of people leave this, I have read, to 100k) If it has a full service history and with the car being on the borderline of this work needing done, check it has been. Its a big job and again, it costs - last I heard it was over £600 to do a plug change ! (that's not a typo either). When was the last service done ? If you can see the stamp of the dealer it was done in then call them to ask explaining you are looking to buy the car and just want to know a few details. Also check for a white crust around the expansion tank under the bonnet which could be coolant

There are manufacturers out there that will make them. While they do a good job, if you go down the stainless route then they are very noisy and will ruin the experience of driving the car. Stainless will always be noisier than the mild steel they are made from. If you do decide to get the stainless ones then you are looking at around £250 fitted - keep an eye out for originals coming up on ebay for around £200

It would make more sense for the £109 policy if you are regularly experiencing malicious tyre damage and do use the more expensive tyres. I have never (touch wood) had any tyres maliciously damaged - I would check what they would class as accidental as that may not cover what you would think it does. Also consider what usage you have had on tyres over a year to make a judgement if its worth while

That is bad ... I have never taken the lights on mine off but I think it would warrant it on this occasion as you will need to get into the light to give it a good drying out. I don't think applying heat to the light in this occasion would sufficiently remove the water and leave the lens clear afterwards (it may leave water marks) Are you able to do a step by step for the forum if you do take the light off ?

aaahhh I had a fault light a couple of months ago - led me to the gearbox and when I checked it out it was one of those spurious codes that comes and goes with no real consequence - gearbox condensation on a sensor was what I remember reading reported a couple of times in the USA??!! Possible first indication of an oil change needed but has not come back since clearing. Will keep an eye out.

Just a bit of fun - if you cant do that with your car then what's the point Bought from Ebay listing number 221500574535 at £15 - just plug and play (no wiring or drilling) As Ishaq said above - they do look a lot better in the dark - picture shows it distorted and dull.but far from it - if I decide to put the oem lights back in I will just plug them back in.

Fitted two shadow lights tonight to the driver and passengers door Just curious to see if they worked and what they looked like. It was still quite light when I took the picture and they are brighter now in the dark. A bit of bling? Picture below

There are a lot of individual guides, worth taking a bit of time to read through the forum to find them and to also get an insight in how they work

Cheers guys I think I will leave well alone - I have read a bit about it now that confirms what you have said John ... a lot of confusion in the states as they consider this to be a sealer unit with no need to change the oil as..!? When I do decide to get it done (if I still have the car then) it will be a dealer job I think. I can feel the gear changes when in auto and I don't think its as smooth as it was when I first got it but I cant really be sure. I was thinking that a gearbox oil change would improve it. If the diff is at around a 20k interval then that will be coming up next year.