is200 Newbie

Wave when you pass me, I am off to Cardiff on Saturday ....

If you are doing this work on the mirrors then look at replacing the puddle lights for the bright blue ones while you have the mirrors apart - picture of mine below

The dimensions of the cog threads etc are shown below

The part number of the motor is shown on the picture below but they are not manufactured anymore

Its an easy job to clean the motors - I found two cogs worn a bit - replaced them and they are working fine. Just one point to watch is when removing and replacing the mirror glass back, be gentle when doing so. Heres the walkthrough I done a while back

It wont do any harm to use it - bit more expensive than regular but with the cleaning additives, cant be bad. I have used it a few times but to be honest not on a regular basis and can say I have felt a difference in the responsiveness of the car, cant vouch for increased mileage though as cant really measure it on the roads I do but certainly not bad. I used the BG44 additive for a while and have meant to get a can for a while now but not got round to it.

I have used a K&N oiled one in mine - have done so since I got it as I used them in other cars. A bit expensive initially but its paying for itself now as I am still on the same bottle of oil but maybe get one more application out of it - its supposed to last for years without cleaning but have cleaned it every year, the much that comes out when cleaning is unbelievable - country roads and dirty winter driving. I just done it at the weekend recently after changing the oil and I can say it does make a big difference having it cleaned. After cleaning there is visible light through the fins of the filter as opposed to the original clean one I still have. There was an initial change in the responsiveness when I first changed it but its not noticeable now as I got used to it. Same as in my wifes Vauxhall that has one fitted also.

On start-up they wont move horizontally - when the headlights are on and it needs to be dark to spot it as its not very noticeable but once you do see them move then its noticeable every time but only when driving. Its easier to spot the movement when straightening up after a tight turn in the dark - if you look through the centre of the two beams (centre line down bonnet when driving) you will see the beams close up (level out) with the road again and like I said, when you notice it then you will see it easier the next time. I am not too sure if they are activated after a certain speed?

Specifically ask them to check the brake calipers out - front and back - these utilise slide pins which are prone to seizing and are not part of any service schedule by Lexus (or didn't used to be) - Easy check and most probably they will check but worth asking them to. Its a job for an indie garage moving forward really as Lexus would charge you an excessive amount to both check and replace. You can ask your MOT garage to do them at the MOT time

Wont the ecu in the car take time to adapt to the higher ron fuel? and so you wont feel the difference immediately, possibly over one / two tanks? Also - with not a lot of cars seemingly using this higher ron fuel (v-power etc) then petrol will quickly "go off" so if deciding to use it then chose a garage that has regular deliveries as it can be sat in the forecourt tanks for quite a while before being re-filled and when you come to fill up it could be a rough batch.

MY usually means "Manufactured Year"

Initially, I would check them after 6 months (hot bed of contention at the moment) only because you want to be sure enough grease has been put on to give you an indication next time on the amount to add. You can actually add too much... also a good idea to check the pins around 6 months to see if the choice of grease is a good one...

Many 100's to go as well Mine should turn over in January ...

It is a battery temperature sensor - the pic is one from an RX but it looks the same as the one on the battery frame on the IS Google told me !!

I have not long done an oil change on mine - I used A5 Magnatec - looking back on old cans I keep for the old oil then theres been a mixture of C5 and A5 used - I usually pick it up when on sale in time to do the change. As I do the change twice a year then I don't worry about these two grades. Have done me well in the past few years. The one time I used Edge I had issues with it in that I needed to regularly top it up - presume it was being burnt easier than the Magnatec - I went to Edge from Magnatec and then back to Magnatec and have used Magnatec ever since with no trouble. Found Edge was changing colour quicker than Magnatec and I needed to top it up on a regular basis over the 6 months search "Oil and Levels" on the forum - I done a comparison of them both (Edge and Magnatec) in 2014 just to see if there was any difference and there was.

I seem to remember reading a post on this forum a while back about a temperature sensor on the side of the battery. Mine (if that's what it is) is located on the left hand side of the plastic cage that goes over the battery - I guess it will sense heat from the battery area but as well as that, thinking about it then there would be engine heat also. hmmm - another gizmo to google to see what it does....

Here to pleeze ... just doing my bit. By the way - the battery "suppressor" is shown in picture 3 (not a clear pic tho) Spark plug walkthrough next (then my life is complete) although I think I will have that done with the fuel seal recall ...

Ah ha - heat sensor - I have seen that mentioned somewhere also. Makes sense to the reply on another post I made where owner experienced a hot battery ... but doesn't explain no warning tho. Anyway - tunes are back, albeit radio ... happy Christmas to me !!

They wont be genuine Lexus parts - what model is the car and were they on it when you bought it? If they were genuine parts then the part number would be stamped on them possibly on the underside or inner, check to see if its stamped.

Could be a seized caliper ?

Heres the pictures I originally posted - it really is an easy job. This is for the Bank 2 Sensor 1 side (passenger side which is the trickiest) PICTURE 1 - The offending sensor removed - this one is the same as Bank 1 Sensor 1 (same fit and wire length and is a direct replacement from the one out of the box in the previous post PICTURE 2 PICTURE 3 PICTURE 4 PICTURE 5 PICTURE 6 PICTURE 7 PICTURE 8 PICTURE 9 PICTURE 10 PICTURE 11 - I think I dropped a screwdriver at this point !! PICTURE 12 PICTURE 13 Hope this helps.... Bank 1 Sensor 1 (Drivers side) is a lot easier to remove - I have the pictures but no instruction on how to but if you remove the engine cover (long one down drivers side wing, then you should see the sensor and understand how easy it is to replace. The sensor removal tool to use is shown below which is available online / ebay etc ... I am pretty sure, including parts, its a £600 job at a dealer. - Parts if importing from USA will cost around £180 (ish) and the removal tool around £10

I have had an issue with the radio reception for a few months now - a lot of interference even on the strongest reception of the channels. I also have an issue with the cd player not playing original CD's and DVD's I changed the car battery this week as the old one was losing charge - looks like it was the original battery that was in the car. I have now noticed that the radio reception is back to normal!!? Possibly co-incidence by changing the battery but could a failing battery cause interference? ALSO - when I was removing the old battery, I needed to remove a plastic frame housing the battery which had what looks like a suppressor attached to it (or something like it) I had to unplug this "suppressor" in order to get the plastic frame out so I could get the battery out. I put the new battery in with the frame and re-connected the "suppressor" - could the action of unplugging and plugging back in this "suppressor" possibly have cleaned an "iffy" connection that was interfering with the radio signal?

Good job it was spotted before it done any damage - did you manage to get the discount in time? I have found a big difference in starting compared to the old one.

Battery came today - fitting took 10 minutes - surprisingly, the old battery sprang back to life as soon as I threatened to replace it. Will keep it as a spare but the issue with the old one was that it was losing its charge a bit when leaving the car undriven for a couple of days. Don't think 10 years is too bad for a battery life. The new one is a perfect fit and the car starts almost immediately when the start button is pressed.

Stick with the recommended sensors - not only will they perform as expected, they will last longer Bank 1 Sensor 1 and Bank 2 sensor 1 are in the engine bay and can be replaced easy - these are the expensive ones. One is easier to fit than the other but both can be done. If you are replacing one side then its wise to do the other side. Both sensor 1's are the same - theres no issue in the wire length as it will fit either side (either bank) You can order these from the USA - I replaced mine last year and purchased them from there. Picture below is of the box - part number shown and its a Denso make. I have a "walkthrough" on fitting if you plan to do yourself if you want me to post it up on the forum. I did a while back but it disappeared.