is200 Newbie

Didn't mean no disrespect - just that a car with low miles compare to the age may need a bit more care than one used on a regular basis - mines just under 100K and I do around 5k a year, some years more than others but on average around 5k. Not stating its not looked after more than a high miler (mine) but it may need just the same or more care due to the age - I would not rest on the mileage being an indicator of the cars reliability as it needs the same care as a high miler due to the age ... if that makes sense ?

Its not always a fact that a low mileage car will not have issues - age is a big factor in components and also how its been looked after. Calipers are a given throughout the brand - even the old IS200 suffered from seized callipers so it should come as no surprise that the later models have the issue which they have. It is a surprise that they are not part of the service schedule from Lexus as surely them must know of the issue but its where moneys made in replacement of parts. Takes 1 hour tops to re-grease the pins yourself, mentioned countless times on this forum. there's no way round it - They need doing and that's that. A low mileage car - such as Steves at 2009 model is 8 years old - should ideally be on at least 90k. I have always gone for a car that has relative mileage to the age as it shows its been used regularly. A car sitting not being used, especially one with a large engine I don't think is good. Looked after it will do well but its the age that takes its toll - rubber perishes / greased joints dry up / exhausts rot if not used regularly. It shows best in the slight increase in value of an old low mileage car compared to an average / high miler. You need to consider the extra vigilance needed for a low mileage car as services would be based on the age of the car and not the mileage in most cases. Would there be an argument in having the car serviced more as its not being used as much.?

A couple of easy checks - its got to be a mechanical part to create the noise The first point - is it like a machine gun rattle? It could be something as simple of the wrong oil being used in the engine - as its a donor one did you see what went in? Second point - check for leaks, as its just gone in then its wise to do so, especially around the belts where slipping may occur if theres a water pump leak. Put the car in N and move belt to see if you can hear or feel the noise or feel a grinding - may well be a bearing on one of the pulleys but presume they were all checked before going back on the car. I would also check the calipers although if seized then the noise would be present or felt all the time - check the discs for visible scoring or uneven brake pad were. ..... its not exhaust noise from headders?

Nice wheels - and expensive I bet

Simples More people need to have a go to realise how easy the maintenance of these are. You should notice a difference in the drive, maybe mpg of you are watching it - need every mile out of it now the petrol prices are rocketing

£600 for the replacement of the plugs is a pretty accurate guide. BUT - theres a few points to consider - owners that have changed them have said theres plenty of life left in them - possibly up to 100k - having not seen for myself used ones I cant vouch for this. If you are using Lexus as the service option then they will be changed and reflected on the service history for the car at around 60k. Leaving the change to 100k will show on the service history ... depends on how you value the service history of the car. If you intend to keep the car and not change it soon and if you are piling the miles on is the service history much use in association with the car as a car over or near to 100k will be considered "less" value wise than one with low mileage if traded in or sold privately. HOWEVER - there is currently a recall for them (a fuel seal) which involves removing most parts around the plugs to get to the seal making it easier to change the plugs while doing the recall and this cost would (some one correct me if I am wrong here) be just for the price of the plugs, around £150

Below is a user recommended list of parts used and proved on their cars - where possible part numbers will be shown - the list will be updated as and when parts are proved and hopefully the post will become a good stop point for info / part numbers for components on the cars. Part numbers are shown for guidance only ****** Brake Pads (Front) Mintex brand MDB2747 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Lexus OEM 04465-53040 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Brake Pads (Rear) Mintex brand MDB2728 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Lexus OEM 04466-22190 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Brake Shoes (Rear) Lexus OEM 4654044010 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Brake Discs (Front) Brembo (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) MTEC dimpled / grooved discs (JamieG4454 - 2006 model) Lexus OEM 43512-30310 (is200 Newbie) Brake Discs (Rear) Mintex brand MDC2250 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Two types exist for the 2007 model - solid and vented - these are vented Lexus OEM 42431-30290 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Two types exist for the 2007 model - solid and vented - these are vented Lexus OEM 42431-302820 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Two types exist for the 2007 model - solid and vented - these are NON-vented Slide Pin Grease Toyota Rubber Grease 08887-83010 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Brake Squeal Compound Copper Grease (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Spark Plugs DENSO FK20HBR11 - x6 of ( thanks to chr15gb ) Tyres (Front) Avon ZV7 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Greenstar - Not suitable (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Hankook Ventus V12 Evo 2 K120 (225/45/17) (JamieG4454 - 2006 model) Goodyear Efficient grip Performance (Normski2 - 2010 model) Tyres (Rear) Avon ZV7 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Greenstar - Not suitable (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Kumho Ecsta Le Sport KU39 (245/45/17) (JamieG4454 - 2006 model) Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2 (Normski2 - 2010 model) Coolant Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (Pink) 0888980150 Pre Mixed 1 litre top-up (is200 Newbie) Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (Pink) 0888980072 Pre Mixed 5 litre refill (is200 Newbie) Oil Shell helix ultra 5w30 (JamieG4454 - 2006 220d model) Castrol Magnatec 5W 30 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Castrol Magnatec 5W 30 (Normski2 - 2010 model) Oil pan sump washer Brake Fluid Shell DOT 4 brake and clutch fluid ESL (JamieG4454 - 2006 model) Wiper Blades Denso - Passenger side DUR 050R 20" / Drivers side DU 055R 22" (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Bosch Aero Twin - Passenger Side AR20U / Drivers side AR22U (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Car Wax Headlight Bulb (HIDS) Bulb utilizing cree diodes, whitest LED, High power (JamieG4454 - 2006 model) Osram Xenarc Cool Blue Intense D4S bulbs (Normski2 - 2010 model) Sidelight Bulb Metal bodied Cree type led (Normski2 - 2010 model) Indicator Bulb Spotlight Bulb Rear Light Bulb Reversing Bulb 50w led Cree bulbs (Normski2 - 2010 model) Interior Bulb 5 SMD type (Normski2 - 2010 model) Boot Bulb Festoon SMD type - 28mm length. (Normski2 - 2010 model) Rear Seat Dome Festoon SMD type - 28mm length. (Normski2 - 2010 model) Puddle Lights 5 SMD led's - 23-25mm length max (Normski2 - 2010 model) Bank 1 / Sensor 1 Denso Air/Fuel Sensor 234-9051 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Denso Air/Fuel Sensor 234/9048 (Normski2 - 2010 model) Bank 2 / Sensor 1 Denso Air/Fuel Sensor 234-9051 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Denso Air/Fuel Sensor 234-9068 (Normski2 - 2010 model) Bank 1 / Sensor 2 Denso 234-4521 (FOR 2006 - 13 MODELS) - Downstream O2 sensor (Normski2 - 2010 model) Bank 2 / Sensor 2 Denso 234-4521 (FOR 2006 - 13 MODELS) - Downstream O2 sensor (Normski2 - 2010 model) MAF sensor cleaner CRC Air Sensor Clean PCV Valve (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve Standard Motor Products V540 (Normski2 - 2010 model) Air Filter K & N Oiled Lifetime Filter 33-2345 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Oil Filter MANN Oil filter 501820149 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Cabin Pollen Filter Toyota part number 87139-YZZ16 (Normski2 - 2010 model) Fuel Additive BG44K fuel injector and engine cleaner (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Archoil AR6200 (Normski2 - 2010 model) BG44K fuel injector and engine cleaner (Normski2 - 2010 model) Oil Additive Wynnes Engine Flush (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Differential Oil Toyota Gear Oil LT 75W-85 - 0888581060 (is200 Newbie - 2007 model) Differential Oil Sump Plug Washer Boot Strut Nitrolift gas strut - SGS Engineering - part number: GSC2655 thanks to chr15gb Rubber seal rejuvenator Wurth Rubber Fit

I would be extremely careful about what additive you put into your petrol - The Shell V power has cleaning properties and can work out cheaper and hassle free. I have used one before, BG44, which did after a few run throughs in the fuel system, clear a symptom of carbon build-up (shivering). Trusted brands will have had the development behind them to back up their claims and in most cases are more expensive to claw back some of the development costs. The likes of own brand I would question why its so cheap and what development has gone into it - likelihood a re-branded cheaper product made by a reputable manufacturer - at a guess?

Seem a popular tyre - I had these on the rears last week - good grip in wet compared to the Evergreen mind you a wet hankie would have been better than the evergreens. These Evergreens must really be bad on frontwheel drive cars!

Agree with Shahpor Something this serious cant be resolved my forum members - needs a mechanic

GOOD ON HIM !! Supermarkets should have CCTV installed within their carparks as you have no choice to use them when doing the shopping etc - yet a lot will put up disclaimers stating they are not responsible for damage caused by the clowns that cause it. Having CCTV would give you half a chance of finding out who has damaged your car. Other than the lines indicating where to park are there actual rules showing how to park? - sounds daft and this is surely a given as everyone knows what the lines mean but are there actually any indications shown anywhere on how to use the spaces (other than disable or family spaces etc) So if the supermarkets use the disclaimer for not being responsible for damage then do they have a leg to stand on in how you park to protect your car? I suppose it applies to all car parks

No amount of running the car will get rid of the lights - they are illuminated to tell you there's an issue. Best to scan the errors with a reader - they may all be associated to the engine being replaced and if you reset the codes they may not come back on again but I would check the codes to assess what to check before drivingit. Why didn't the garage that installed the engine rectify the issue - I am sure that the lights showing would make it an MOT failure

and, just as good, known cars or pre-owned cars of the members of the forum.

Looked after, to an extent they are bullet proof. The list is quite long but covers everything. Don't let it put you off as a lot of whats on the list is for information

3 owners experiencing the same thing with the same make of tyre - should make a note to avoid this brand ...

Never experienced under or oversteer in any car - I presumed it was understeer as that's what it felt like it was doing ... Just checked .... Google's a wonderful thing ... Oversteer it is

Had exactly the same issue and with the same Evergreen tyres. These were on the car (rears only) when I bought it and to be honest I have had no reason to change them until recently when the car started to feel odd at the rear end, felt it had understeer on the back tyres. Tyres had plenty of tread left but I suspected they were not up to it anymore. Posted on the forum about the issue a few weeks back - Changed to Avons and the issue went away. Like you it felt that the car was about to put the rear end out especially in the wet and at relatively low speeds. It wasn't my decision to put these tyres on but after this experience I wont touch them again. As John has stated above.. mine were 4 years old and I had done around 25k on them. Hard rubber and wet roads is not a good combination. Pretty sure, as I did, changing your tyres will make all the difference. Pressures for 17's are front = 35 / rear = 38

While its under warranty and do it ASAP to avoid any dealer hassle on wear and tear excuses, get the exhaust fully checked out for wear/rust/holes etc..- it may be worth getting it MOT'd again at a garage you trust, not one that's associated to the seller. Not saying it will be dodgy but I have had a bad experience with this on a previous car...., mot'd by the sellers garage and soon after there were wear and tear issues that should have been picked up at the mot. The only reason I am specifically stating check the exhaust out is due to the age of the car and the cost or replacement at almost £2.5k for a replacement OEM exhaust from Lexus as they are not available from the likes of ATS etc as Lexus have not issued the pattern part to manufacturers. You can obviously buy a stainless but that's your decision...

Try reading the ECU on the off chance there's an error code stored. Has it gradually got worse or just the same as from the first time you drove it? From the list above that Shahpor has donated then you can eliminate 1, 2, 3, you can realistically eliminate 4 and 5 as you would notice issues with this leaving 7 possibilities which unfortunate for this car are all electrical. If you consider a failure of No 6 & 8 (torque and speed sensors) would have flagged up constantly on the dash, then that leaves 5 areas which narrows it down considerably. Out of these 5 I would AT A GUESS put it down to a mechanical issue and that would indicate No7 (power steering motor) Someone else jump in here with their view but if that had gone then there would be no degradation in the operation of the steering, it would be dead and would be heavy all of the time. I would tend to look at the mechanicals first on this, the electricals second. The battery is fine? and your certain its definitely heavier than the Corsa you have tried... only asking as our other car is a Tigra, same chassis almost as the Corsa and the Lex is way better in steering. Also, when you done the calipers did you specifically check the rubbers as its not always obvious that they have gone - its in the list above that Shahpor has posted (lower ball joint) so could be an issue if not actually specifically checked - worth a look?

I can only mention the basics - power steering pump and fluids - didn't mention these before as don't know what system this car has. Fluids would be the first and easiest thing to check. If fluid levels ok then a fluid change maybe as I expect this would be hydroscopic fluid and pull in moisture after time. Not sure of the fluid life but expect as with brake fluid there will be one...? Tyres also - mine is on 17's and its 35 for the front and 38 for the rear You could also look at the ball joint rubbers (need wheels off to do that) see if the rubbers have perished but I expect you would hear some sort of noise if that was the case - in each case, these checks can be done at no cost - you may find an issue? Just a thought - if you are finding it difficult to turn at a low speed then you could also check to see if the calipers have seized..

Post the link to it - theres a lot of things that owners of these can spot if your not "tuned" at looking for them

My wife has a Tigra - the Lex is way much easier to steer than hers - sounds like you have an issue ...

Not really noticed a difference but I have noticed my wifes car steering is harder than the Lexus

It needs to be in top whack condition for that price - I would not worry about the miles. Make sure it has ML sound system and Nav. If you are keeping it for a while then its of no consequence but if you plan on changing it in the future, consider as its on a top whack price, then it will probably drop by around 1.5k (ish) as a trade in value. Also - make sure it is an SE L model and not an SE I

Cheers - I am only asking as I have put dual boxes on my standard 250 and sounds sportier while not intruding on the cabin. Was not a mod choice but I found a make of box that was a relatively exact fit so made the change from stainless back to mild steel. The one I have made is two pipe from the cats / into one resonator box / then 1 foot of single pipe / split into the two boxes / exiting in two pipes per box ..... pretty much stock but I have altered the pipe lengths used and its been a good match for the car. Its not as throaty as the ISF but the tone is definitely changed (for the better) when I get a chance I will post a vid with the sound..