is200 Newbie

I have ran this for almost a week now after re-securing the plug into the air pipe as in the pictures above What issues could be faced from this not being connected properly - I presume hot air (fumes etc) would be sucked into the carb and burned off so am presuming heat would be the main factor missing before I re-connected it. It was obvious it was leaking before. This week after re-connecting the plug into the pipe the car has driven a bit better in the way it pulls away at junctions. Would this re-connection have been a possible cause of the improvement?

Use the following as a guide You can find it in the "How to" section of the forum. It really is an easy process. Once the caliper and carrier is off, tap the disc with a piece of wood or soft hammer and it will free itself from the hub. When fitting the new disc make doubly sure that the mating surface is clean - give it a rub down with a wire brush - if there's dirt left on the mating surface then the new disc will not seat right and cause a "wobble" when braking - it will mostly be rust dust etc anyway, so its easy to clean. If you are re-greasing the pins also then you will need suitable grease before you start the job Madasahatter is right - no need to bleed anything - just open the brake fluid reservoir cap to enable the fluid to expand when you come to push the pistons in when fitting the new pads - you will need to do this due to the extra thickness of both the pads and the disc. Use something to hold the caliper up as the fluid hose is not long enough to let the caliper rest on the floor - I user either a plant pot or a bungee cord to support it. You can also use any alcohol based cleaner (IPA - Isopropanol if you have any) When all done - remember to secure the brake fluid cap When testing make sure the brakes work - don't go racing off - this is only to ensure the protective film of oil has all been wiped off. Take your time and you will be fine - it will benefit you in the future knowing how they work but not only that, how to grease the pins. I would initially check the pins after 6 months and re-grease as required.

You shouldn't really hear them working - I don't on mine (maybe my hearings going!) but its nice to know they are stopping the car .... There may be a few reasons for you to hear them when operating; Drilled discs Grooved discs Pad mismatch Slightly warped discs (although you would feel that through the pedal or the seat) Dirt in the pad grooves - are the discs scored? Noise from front or rear? The rear has two sets per wheel - drum and pad and while its easy to check the pad wear its not so easy to check the drum shoe wear but in relation to the pads, the shoes do not take a hammering - I changed mine last year and that was nine years of use from factory. You can sometimes hear a clicking noise when braking while reversing - this is the pads moving slightly on the securing pins within the caliper - I think its from the front. No issue its just they are used to being applied with a forward force and not reverse. Maybe you have good hearing and are being a bit too fussy !

You may hear them for a short time when braking if the cars been parked up for a bit - rain then sun or dry weather will "wet then dry" the discs creating an oxide on them (normal for discs when sat for a bit) when braking what you are hearing is like a gritty/abrasive noise for a few times pressing the brake - you will hear / feel it more on a car with front and rear brake discs. Two maybe three times after pressing brake pedal it will go away - should not hear it after that. On the other hand your calipers may need to be re-greased - may be enough on them to operate but dirt can get past the rubber boots on the pins and while the grease will still be enough to work it will not operate fully and may not release as fully as expected leaving one pad or both just touching the disc.. When was the last time these were greased?

In a nut shell... if you can do it yourself then that's what I would do. You will cover more areas than what's in the service for a >105k car - The schedule for this from a Lexus dealer would be Oil / Oil filter change and an air filter change. Unless I am mistaken, the other areas Lexus would check would be inspections of areas with no physical replacements as per schedule. Doing it yourself you could do the oil / oil filter / air filter / cabin filter / brake fluid / grease caliper pins along with the inspections of the same areas that Lexus would carry out for less cost and find out how to maintain it in the process of doing so. By the prices above they have got to be indie costs - a Lexus cost for a plug change would be in the region on £600. I would have the plugs changed (yourself or indie, get the parts yourself) - 100k is about the time to change these although owners have changed at this point have said there looks to be loads of life left in them. If it is on the recall list for fuel seal then get the plugs done the same time as all the parts are removed in order to do the recall that woudl come off to do the plugs (cost is only parts and approx. 10 min labour) Oil and oil filter if you have the time / confidence is a simple job. Brakes - only if you are confident but its no big "drama" and would help you to get into the routine of greasing the pins so a benefit if you found out how to do it in the future. If you are servicing it thinking it will add value to the car then due to mileage it wont, at that mileage, unless the buyer knows the cars then it would be minimum value in selling on - if you are doing it for piece of mind then there's two arguments. Doing it yourself you know what's been used on the service is good (good oil / correct parts etc) and will give you confidence in whats used - The car will benefit from correct parts used, especially if its a keeper.. Putting it into an indie and maybe I am sceptical on this point, you wont know the parts used or the correct fluid is used, just what they have in stock or what they think is suitable. I would like to know I have used the correct parts, oils etc in a car.

Don't you get a rattle from the loose cover?

1 word - MacGyver Seemed to have worked well - just needed something under the rubber washer to stop the whole thing squashing when pressing it down to secure.

Anyone know what the ref of the nav disc is for the MKII IS (2007) and also how up to date they ended up at (did Lexus stop producing them in 2012 etc ) Western Europe covering UK

Mintex Front discs and pads £99 - free postage (ebay number 321820459908)

Apologies BANK 2 SENSOR 1 IS PASSENGER SIDE Bank 1 sensor 1 is driver side Too many numbers !!

Covers do provide sound deadening - the foam on the undercover provides this. They will also prevent a lot of loose dirt from landing on the engine. Anyway ... I will keep mine on as they will only get battered around in the garage if left off. I can see the reasoning for having them left off but theres no hassle in removing them if the securing points were stronger. I had glued the securing points back on the cover - put the cover back on this morning and the epoxy looks like its "rock ard" but I have amended the securing clips to make them a bit more secure - simple process really The securing points I have circled in Yellow (3 of) I greased these up before offering the cover back on and I also done the same to the rubber points on the cover. Before putting the cover back on and to make it a lot more secure and to make it easier to press into place without squashing the rubber securing caps on the cover I cut 2 small pieces of MDF and placed then in the recess in the rubber clips as shown below - why this was not done at the manufacturing stage who knows?? The cover went on real easy - a combination of the grease and the MDF plug. Will see how long this lasts but it looks to be solid. I used the epoxy shown below - just another type of 2 part glue but specific for plastic repairs Was out in car this morning and no annoying low speed rattles anymore. Happy Days

(CORRECTED) Bank 2 Sensor 1 is the sensor located on the passenger side (in the engine bay) - the trickier of the two sensors to replace but all thats required is a bit of patience when replacing it. Bank 1 sensor one is the easier on the drivers side - to replace this sensor its pretty straight forward It would certainly be my first port of call in getting rid of the codes you have - they are all related to the fuel mixture. The sensor is a heater air/fuel sensor so P0031 is the general fault that's being thrown up covering 300 / 301 / 303. Follow my post as per the pm I sent - but I would recommend you do both sensors in the engine bay as they have both been in there the same time and he other one will probably go shortly afterwards. When you take the offending one out, you will see what I mean by the amount of coked up soot on it. You need the extraction tool to take it out - don't try with a spanner as you will not manage it.

Good advise - would be handy to have that indicated in the cars manual but theres no real need to take it off really on a regular basis for maintenance. So far the 2 part epoxy is looking like it will hold better than before. Will need to put a blob of grease over the rubber poppers before pushing on as the rubber on the poppers is quite hard.

I know a lot of people take the engine covers off and leave them off so they can see any issues with the engine components. Has anyone tried to repair the fixing points on the covers? One of mine has been broken for a while - I had glued it a while back (cant remember what with, might have been superglue cant remember) Had another go today at fixing it as I had the cover off the car but used a 2 part epoxy, roughed the plastic up and and gave it a good blob of epoxy all around the joint. Will leave it until tomorrow to see how strong it has set - anyone else fixed theirs, if so with what? These fixings on the plastic cover are not strong at all as the other similar one to the one that's broke is a bit loose (stressed white plastic where it meets the cover is showing) and the other fixing - one at the rear of the cover is broke on two sides but held on by a further piece. I guess it could be heat damage .... As the fixing is broke I can hear it vibrate when at low speeds.

Fitted, that's pretty average price - not a lot of time needed to replace these.

Was in the engine bay today giving it a clean - I was going to give the seals a good clean also but waiting for the "gunk" to do that which has not arrived yet so will do that next week. I took the main cover off to check the pipes and bits over and found a wet oil stain on one of the pipes - circled in the picture below ... (or what looks like oil) There's no indication as to where this has come from - it looks like a oil breather pipe. Everywhere in the bay is dry - the larger pipe that the breather goes into is dry - I cant find any sign of oil anywhere else. This breather pipe however is not in its recess properly - must have been like that since I have had the car or worked loose some how as I have not taken it out at any point. Cleaned the pipe and the connecting plug and put it back together correctly - was very hard to seat back in correctly and I had to lube up the connecting plug to get it in and even that took some doing so cant see how if could have worked loose. Anyway - will keep an eye on it to see if the oil comes back ... anything I should be looking at to find the source?

Did Halfords tell you that? Seriously - get another opinion. £500 ... ??? Easily done yourself for around £250 if what they have told you is correct - cant see that though as the MOT station should have indicated worn discs - at least an advisory on them..as they wont wear down that much in 4 months since the MOT Put your reg no in the link below and that will indicate if its had any issues such as advisories on discs in the past and will give you a good indication if it could be the discs from when they were last changed (if it is shown that is) https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history It could even be something simple as a stone lodged in between the disc and the caliper or the dust plate

Gone for the Gummi Pflege See what its like - will be usefull on wifes roof seals as she has a convertible.

.... I do .... twice a year (Christmas and birthdays) .... and oh yes ... I get the petrol ...but nothing that requires opening the boot.

wife wont drive it .... bonus !!

Thanks guys - the boot could do with it as well as it sticks like a bugger, especially when its not opened that often ...

I have a "creaky" door - and am almost 100% sure its the door seal so I want to cure or rule it out by spraying some silicon spray on the seals . I want to do it at the weekend so my options to buy some will be from either Halfords or B&Q. Question is: will any silicon spray do for this or will it need to be a specific one?

Hammerite smooth works really well

LIST UPDATED

Have added to the list as it is an issue across the range