is200 Newbie

Also - check the coolant level Is there a "gurgling" sound in the cabin by the drivers foot well when the cars running. If so it could indicate the coolant is low and needs a top up.

I am sure in deleting the cats it will be an MOT failure. Removing the sensors will certainly throw up errors and give you issues with running the car as, if I am not mistaken, these down stream ones act to adjust the running of the car to ensure the gasses coming from the cats have been reduced to an acceptable level - this wont be possible if there's no cats and it wont run correctly. The existing sensors can be fitted to a stainless system with no issue - the issue I had with the stainless one I had fitted was the noise generated by it, especially in the cabin. The issue on mine was a very loud drone at 70mph. I had a cat back on mine (centre and boxes) after the centre box joint went. Got rid of it due to the noise it created. If you going down that road, make sure the garage keeps the old system until you are happy with the stainless one as it can always go back on until a quiet exhaust can be sourced. As mentioned above, look on ebay for good used one as in my opinion it may be the better option. It seems the OEM ones are made from a better steel than mild and do last a while (in most cases !!)

From a post I made in May - I had what I thought were issues with the torque convertor (turns out it was alloy wheel issues - inner corrosion, figure that one out !!) The issue presented was the exact description of a failing convertor and after a lot of digging on the web there was a good chance as the fault was not too severe (vibration) would be cured by an oil change. Bit the bullet and had it done by a local garage who I trusted and he said it was a relative easy job - I asked him to keep some oil back for comparison - he did not change it but he said he topped it up - drained a bottles worth of old (I think a litre) and filled back up with a litre of new. I had it done again a few months back and was planning to get it done again but the garage is closed down now. He drained through the box and filled through the cooling pipes I think? But to your answer - Yes it can be done but I would not attempt it myself but looking at the comparison, it needed it - car was on 101k and now on 105k

Is this a job for Lexus or can an Indie do it - just a question?

NICE

Needs must - at the time I was stuck for an exhaust - the original one had packed in and I needed the car. Was told about this place and gave them a go. Initially it was noisy but to be honest they done a good job. I believe from what they said that mine was the first IS they had done. Living with the noise of the exhaust afterwards, while it was a novelty at first, it was too noisy but the drone was a killer and the drone sat right at 70mph (cruising speed) so it got to be an embarrassment driving it with passengers. I would recommend checking the exhaust after a while for soot marks as the welding I found out on mine was not that good - yes there is a guarantee but its a pfaf getting the car back to the manufacturer as its so far away for me both distance and time wise. I made my own in the end and the noise has disappeared completely.

I have used this one which was advertised on the forum at the time this post was started https://www.latestsatnav.co.uk/latest-2018-sat-nav-disc-update-for-toyotalexus-e1f-navigation-gen35-86-p.asp?utm_source=LexusOwnersClubUK&utm_medium=ForumLinks The disc arrived and I initially tried it but it was late at night and dark and had no luck - especially in trying to remove the disc panel (not the best time to do something like this) - but gave it a go in the light yesterday and the disc was accepted with no issue - no need to reset anything - no battery disconnection either. Not sure of the maps yet as I have not had a chance to use but will do mid November on a trip to South Wales so I will give it a good try then. No issue with losing any features of voice control at all. I have checked the version and the screen reports its a 2017 / 18 revision. I was thinking why there was a need to disconnect the battery for the car to update the firmware?....why would you need to do that as its is a DVD based system and the DVD reader is only reading the disc so there should be no need to update the firmware to do so unless hard drive update?

Your pads will move, especially if they are non oem ones. They do have a bit of play which you can especially hear when braking while moving forward and then reversing and breaking. You could put a good smear of copper ease on the shims and both pad backs - this should stop it I would expect as it would act as a lubricant (for lack of a better word)

After watching the video it makes sense that an engine flush and regular oil changes should resolve this - likelihood of the spring breaking? or the valve clogging with dirt? I would bet on dirt building up and after seeing the same resolution from users who have experienced this then it does make sense. With the immediate start up after an oil change then that also makes sense that it rattles a bit at this point as the valve is not pressurised which is what I have experienced. Its possible that the last user has made one oil change which is not enough to resolve the rattle and also you do not know if a flush was used.

No Fuel but did wash car but was nothing to shout home about - water streaks etc

If they are rattling too much you could stick the panels together with strong adhesive velcro

Pretty sure it was these http://www.vehicleclips.co.uk/toyota-engine-cover-clips-plastic-trim-fasteners-for-motor-shields-panels.html ...... in the Toyota section but the clips include measurements that you can base on an existing clip in your car

Mine only had the glove box out like yours and they went in from the foot well - yet others have reported that the whole dash has come out strange

I have experienced this with mine (but not as bad as what was heard in the video you posted) and John & John in their posts above are spot on when stating its the oil. Its an obvious issue but not one to worry about and sound worse than what it is. You will sometimes have this when changing oil as the oil reservoir that John has mentioned is drained and the engine has no means to fill it without turning on - when turning on it will rattle a bit (for a second if that) I got rid of mine after regular oil changes using an engine flush (Wynns) each time - oil changes I do every 6 months but use the right oil (5/30). You will probably get it if the cars not had the necessary oil changes - check the colour of your oil and I will bet its black which is a sure sign it needs changing. 6 months use of Magnatec when changing the oil will see the oil a dark tea colour (still opaque but starting to change) Do an oil change with a flush regularly and you will be on the road to getting rid of the noise. By the way - no - there is no code thrown up by this and it is not your timing chain judging by the sound on the video

I bought these after they were recommended by a forum member and they fit well http://www.vehicleclips.co.uk/parts-by-make/toyota.html/ Below is a picture and part number for the correct ones from Toyota

There is also this one - link below https://www.thesatnavshop.com/lexus-toyota Found this being advertised on this forum at the top of the page - does the 2015 / 2016 updates but not sure if it integrated into the handsfree so have asked the question

Nice colour - don't see many of them in that colour

No ... not picked on .. I just think that owners with these cars - which to be honest, the cars are getting on a bit (mines 11 years old in a few months time but drives maybe not as new but not far from it compared to the new cars coming of the line now and I would have thought any well kept car in this range would be the same?), unless you have the money to throw at them against the dealer prices then you need to get your hands dirty. I look after mine and always have done and always will until it does need to go to a dealer/garage for something I cant figure out. Yesterday I changed the oil, filter, cabin and cleaned and re-oiled the air filter and had a general "mooch" around the wheel arches cleaning them out before the winter. Gives a good feeling when done as like Texas has said in his post that you know exactly whats used been used and you have the satisfaction its done well (by yourself) If it was a dealer job all the time then it would warrant paying the price for a newer car not having any issues. To be honest maybe some owners don't have the room or opportunity to maintain it themselves or do work on them and have no choice to put it in a dealer Also - this web site is very good to air any issues and for members to help resolve other member car issues - theres no maintenance manuals such as the "Haynes" manuals you used to buy so the more people doing or resolving their own issues and posting here the better for all so - no not picking on anyone...

It is a good idea to disable the function - they do get frozen up especially if its rained before. The PO40 feature is a good piece of kit (I have it on mine) but consider its an optional fitted component - not specifically designed by Lexus as the designer of the mirror. Theres nothing wrong with the PO40 kit at all and works great but there would have been no consideration built in to the mirror functionality at the manufacturing stage for this as it was not an installed item as such by Lexus. If you strip the mirrors down you will see how they can be damaged - there are plastic cogs in there which control the movement, especially the mirror movement, if they struggle to move it they will sheer off or wear quickly if they are straining to move. I replaced one of my motors and cogs and had presumed this was what had happened as it makes sense. If its icy then turn the mirror heaters on and pour cold water over them to free before use

As a post I just put up against Shahpor's caliper post Checking all the components when you have the wheel off is a no brainer - when for example I do the re-greasing (a bit off topic) of the calliper pins I will check all the components and give them a clean to make sure there are no issues. Once they are cleaned I will put a squirt of WD40 in all of the components that move (obvious ones excluded) - things like the ball joint rubbers / suspension bushes - for no other reason, good or bad) that its something I have done for years now with no issue (it may have been something my dad showed me when I was helping him with his car ... don't know?) I would suggest you could do the same to yours - oil the rubbers, bushes etc, in the arches - if it disappears then you know there is possibly an issue with one and narrow it down from there. I have also heard that while the shocks are ok (something along the lines of what Rayaan said above that the inner shocks can cause a squeak. I have seen this on a few other posts against Lexus. If oiling them, remember to do the top mounts and use a WD40 can with the straw attachment as it makes the job a lot easier and cleaner.

The fibre ones from ebay are the ones I usually buy - I had quite a few last time I ordered but have finally used them all up - I will be ordering them again. The ones from Lexus are horrendous in price (for what they are) and if you specify them from the likes of Eurocar or Halfords you can only get them with the bolt and a copper washer.

Second Geoff's post Hold out for a 250 - I would not want to think that because you cant get a 250 that you would settle for a 220. They are such different cars. Doesn't the fact that you cant find a 250 but can find a 220 suggest that the 250 is more desirable?

Maintaining the callipers yourself (ok, a lot of us do it and a lot don't) also gives you peace of mind also that at least there are no issues elsewhere in the wheel arches such as brake pads low, sensors damaged, weeping shocks etc as the components in the arches do take a hammering. Its also a good idea to clean the wheel arches out from time to time – Lexus wont give them a clean, maybe a blast with a jet wash when they are returning the car but nothing as detailed as cleaning mud from parts with the wheel off. Its an ideal time to check over the tyres and alloys also, especially inner alloy for corrosion. As the wheel is off it takes no time at all to do. Its good to get into the routine of greasing the pins as at some point, for example when they wont cover the car under warranty, you will need to do it. It is an easy job and takes 1 hour tops to do all 4 and that includes cleaning out the arches. A new calliper is not necessary better than a maintained one as its not featured on any service schedule from Lexus to regrease the pins – it’s a replacement every time. I would not be surprised that the ones they do replace and re-fit are refurbished ones as Lexus wont, I would expect, still be authorising the manufacture of these as the model has changed so much over the years so what I would expect they are putting back on the car are refurbed ones, which are ok and it can be argued that they are new to some extent. I would stick my neck out also in stating that I would not take them to an indie garage to do (unless trusted) as I would want to see the callipers done properly. If the garage did not do the job properly and done a sloppy job then when seized they are going to cost £300+ per corner to replace. Not saying the garage would do a bad job but I would want to trust them to do it right as for the sake of a small amount of grease the resulting cost could be horrendous for the replacement of 2 or 3 callipers. In that case I would think it would be a case of proving they done the job badly... you would not be able to. Its good that you are still getting them done (replaced) while under warranty but there is so much more that you could check if you could do them yourself. Not having a rant, I am just putting an argument across as to the benefit of doing the job yourself and if you are keeping the car for a while (like I do) I would want to know all is well with other parts in the wheel arch.

Its not as black as it looks in the picture - the can is black and that made it look worse. Last time it was changed was March this year (do it every 6 months or so) also do a flush before change.

Its the type that's been on the car when I got it - have replaced as such every oil change. No problems. I know the diff has brass washers. Any, I presume, will do providing they meet the correct size and provide a good seal/tension