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is200 Newbie

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Everything posted by is200 Newbie

  1. I will send my address for the box of Celebrations !!!!
  2. Have you tried to reset the ECU - battery lead off for half an hour or so and reconnection.... Worth a try, costs noting other than resetting windows etc
  3. Thanks Lucky - unfortunately I cant add any more detail to the original post as it is closed and cant be edited
  4. I am pretty sure your model will have inner brake shoes as well as the pads on the disc. The wheel looks like its taken a good whack - not that wheels these days need to be smacked hard to cause this damage .... if you are only experiencing the noise when moving could the smack to the wheel have caused some of the components in the brake disc, where the shoes sit, to have moved or dislodged? The old IS200 had a dust shield on the back of the disc that needed cleaning from rust / dirt etc every so often as it suffered a bit from a screeching / whine noise and it was the rotation of the disc rubbing on a thinly machined groove in the shield that caused it from getting clogged up with rust/dirt. Its quite conceivable, if the design has not changed, that you could have bent the disk a bit or the assembly or dislodged it and its rubbing on this shield creating the noise?
  5. I don't consider old cars with low mileage myself, due to the reasons you have mentioned above as the car at the end of the day is still, in this case, coming up for 11 years old. That's why I mentioned the OP if considering it would be in a good position to haggle the price down. There's ideal info on the forum to assess against the car to see if there's issues with it. An independent check over the car by another garage / mechanic would be a good bet to see if there are issues. It would be ideal as a car that's going to be used to put mileage on it and I would imagine there would be more re-sale value if sold under the average mileage in a few years time than buying a newer one. I don't know the amount of owners it has had, it would be a different story if it has had numerous keepers over the years.
  6. Have look at this IS - being advertised on ebay Super low mileage for the year at 27k and its a 2007 SE-L https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2007-Lexus-IS-250-SE-L-Auto-Black-Black-Leather-AC-Nav-Mark-Levison-27k-mile-FSH/382304826182?hash=item590324b346:g:PMkAAOSwRNhaEX1Z Consider if you are going to put the miles on it then this mileage will be ideal - the cost is quite high though but this reflects the mileage - a good prospect for haggling to get the price down a bit. Worth a punt if you don't mind the age of the car...
  7. Search the forum for the following (ignore the spelling !!) Wing Mirros - Auto Tilt feature Thus guide will show you how to remove and replace the parts of the mirror
  8. It may or may not be the issue - It used to be that if the system was not bled properly during/after a coolant change – a full drop of coolant – and topped up without leaving a hose open for the escape of air then the air that had entered the system when “empty” could get trapped and prevent the coolant from running through the system properly, trapped by the air. A bit like the highest point in your central heating system – leave that pipe open or use as a bleed point on the system. Easiest way is to put the car on a slight incline (front of car on incline) and open the expansion tank. With the car on for a few minutes, see if the expansion tank coolant level drops, in effect you are forcing the air to the highest point of the system. If there is air in the system it will work itself out but you will need to top the system up if any air comes out. If no coolant was getting to the box, rather than providing an ambient temperature it would remain colder longer? Hence you having issues in slow start up times? Its just a thought but could be related to the recent coolant change? Its a good start to rule this out. There is a small overflow rubber pipe coming from the expansion tank – first check to see if this is blocked as it wont allow any air out of the tank naturally. If clear then carefully open the tank cap BEFORE starting the car to prevent any hot coolant spitting out Start the car keeping an eye on the bottle BE CAREFULL WHEN OPENING THE EXPANSION TANK TOP – IT MAY SPIT IF IT DOES RELEASE AIR – TRY THIS WHEN ENGINE IS COLD TO PREVENT ANY HOT COOLANT SPITTING OUT WHEN IT GETS HOT. REMOVE THE CAP FIRST BEFORE STARTING THE CAR. 5 minutes should do to see if the tank level drops or until the car gets to temp.
  9. I wasn't sure as had seen a while ago Lexus stopped replacing them - worth checking for the age of car at least. Why they have not resolved this is anyones guess as its been an issue since the early 90's
  10. When was the last time your coolant was changed? Could be ?? an issue where due to the weather it was partially frozen if degraded too much or the wrong coolant used? No expert, just a stab in the dark...
  11. I put the topic up to cover everything I could think of and what had been reported on the forum - not to deter buyers but helpful to take with you when looking at a possible new car. I doubt the exhaust and calipers will be on the extended warranty (calipers may be? but exhaust wont be) Things to also consider.... airbag recall done? / fuel seal done (if applicable?) .... doesn't cost anything other than the "hassle factor" ... also, consider the cost of plug replacement cost at around 60k miles (service schedule for them) at around £600. I would not consider the mileage of these cars to put them in a bad light providing they have been looked after and it will be pretty obvious on fist sight if they have been. As for the USB socket, I use the AUX socket in the armrest connected to an MP3 player on a 3.5mm audio jack cable and it works brilliantly, cant get the songs shown on the main screen but who does that when they are driving. Can change the tracks though as the player sits next to the gear stick. If you are looking to buy from a dealer then ask them to update the sat nav to latest spec before buying.
  12. Agreed with other members Your gearbox will not get up to 6th gear until the engines warmed up - to see this yourself select the gear selection screen on the dash and take it for a drive in the morning and you will see for 3 or 4 miles or so it will remain in 5th gear. Obviously the cold weather will affect the time it takes to warm up. Its important to keep your coolant changes up to date also as this cools the gearbox. The temp sensor for the gearbox is, I believe, on the upper side of the box and some can be affected by condensation, coupled together with the freezing weather then it may explain why its taking a while to get to speed but if at fault there will be an error thrown up. Its not normal to only get to 30. I would put a code reader on it just to see if there are any stored codes. The dash board Christmas tree lights on mine came on last week in the snow and it was the MAF sensor that needed cleaning so it is more than likely weather related as it has been cold but I would get your codes read...
  13. After the fault codes on mine from last week, I cleaned the MAF sensor this morning - a bit grubby but nothing too bad, reset the error codes and alls good.
  14. I think its the injectors on the diesel that need coding to the diesel models - pretty sure I have seen members having to do this on the forum
  15. Thinking about doing plugs early next year Knowing how awkward it is to do them it got me thinking about how I could assess to see whether they do actually need doing - car is at 105k so the mileage should dictate they need doing. I was thinking about removing the easiest one and making a judgement on how that plug is to change the whole lot or leave for a bit longer? Any thoughts?
  16. I think that's just the diesel model ??
  17. I never use a carwash for the exact reason - plus the added hassle of trying to get the owner of it to admit liability if damage is done The mirrors should just snap back into position if manually adjusted - if you have the auto fold ones then the noise would have been the motors opening the mirrors as normal (there is no sensor on them to dictate they have been pushed open / closed etc through misuse) so the motors would assume their normal operation. A car wash should not affect the use of the door though - glad to hear its back to normal though.
  18. Strangely enough, today while driving in the snow I had the TRC/engine warning etc lights come on Codes thrown up were P0172 and P0175 Felt a bit lumpy - these two codes relate to the engine not being able to set the fuel / air ratios correctly so am guessing its the MAF due to the bad weather getting dirty etc. Was due to go to Scotland tomorrow but I don't think so now due to the weather so will clean the MAF instead. ! Have you tried reading the error codes if there are any stored?
  19. I can understand it feeling "lumpy" at startup during the cold weather due to the engine adjusting to the cold temperature but it should soon go when the engine has warmed up, and you say the revs jump when coming to a stop at a junction. Does it do this all of the time or now and then - does it feel like its doing this when driving the car? Could be the engine is hunting - could be a few things .... check the air filter - TPS could be at fault if severe ... battery? ... even a bad batch of fuel if happening during driving
  20. Dealer on Ebay is listing this IS as a 250 yet the car reg (done under a check) states its a 2014 GS https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lexus-IS-250-2-5-SE-I-4dr/332472900405?hash=item4d68eddb35:g:W70AAOSwySVZ8Jm1 Don't think anyone will fall for it if it is a scam but anyone looking beware ...
  21. If there is a serial number on the wire (label) then I would contact Denso to check to see if the sensor is genuine as you don't want to do the job again - also, if new, they are supplied with a small tube of thread grease but you can use a small amount of copper ease on the threads. Its possible the last owner of this lost the tube of grease... Careful with ebay things like this as there are a lot of fakes around, especially headlight bulbs (was featured on Fake Britain on the beeb last week) If you have doubts about it being genuine I would replace the other sensor which is a 5 minute job with this one to prove it to save the hassle of removing it if duff? It doesn't look like its been used though as a used one would come out covered in light soot.
  22. The sensors (if genuine) come with a small tube of the stuff - as Colin has indicated above
  23. I have been asked 3 times in the past two months if I still had the pictures for this - for some reason they went missing from the original post and I cant edit the post to add them so have re-posted the guide below... REMOVING / REPLACING BANK 2, SENSOR 1 After replacing the faulty Bank 1, Sensor 1 sensor this week it made sense to replace the other Bank 2, Sensor 1 as they have both been in the car for the same period of time. Bank 1 took 15 minutes to do - Bank 2 took 1 hour 30 minutes to do. Both are located in the engine bay - Bank 1, Sensor 1is on the drivers side (UK models) and Bank 2, Sensor 1 is on the passenger side (UK models). Replacement of the Bank 1 sensor is in the IS250 general forum. Bank 2 is shown below. Take your time doing this one as there are a few parts to remove so be patient and do it right. Also - be careful not to drop anything through the engine on this side as it will not go straight through the engine bay to the floor as I found out with a screwdriver I dropped (shown in a picture). You can get dropped items out but its a bit of hassle doing so. There are no engine covers to remove on this side. Make sure the engine is cold. You will burn yourself if its hot !! Remove the battery terminals using a size 10 mm socket drive. Then remove the securing bar which is also a 10 mm nut. Remove the nut then lift the bar out of its securing tab as shown in the picture below (Picture 1) Next you will need to remove the frame that the battery sits in. This is a plastic formed frame - there is a connection that is secured onto the engine side of this frame that needs to be removed first before removing this from the battery. Once the connector is removed then the frame can be lifted out of the way - Picture below shows the location of the connector (picture 2) Just a note - you cannot get to the sensor without removing these items - they need to come out to replace it. It cant be got to from under the car either so the only way is down ! Picture below is of the removed battery - Panasonic? - don't know if this is the original battery that Lexus installed? (picture 3) The next picture shows the battery tray (battery removed) also shows the connector that you have removed from the battery housing - the "tray" that the battery sits on will just lift out of the way (not secured by anything) and once removed will reveal an electronic box you need to remove. While at this point it is wise to check a wiring "bung" indicated in the picture as I found when it rains that the rain passes this connection - just check for water tightness etc as the wiring from this leads into the cabin. (just thought I would check this while I had all the parts off the car) Picture below (Picture 4) With the battery tray now removed this will now reveal the electronic box and 3 plugs that need to be removed from it along with 3 bolts that need to be removed to get the unit out. The picture below describes how to remove the securing connectors from the plugs. Quite a fiddly job so be patient. Once you have the small securing tabs lifted up (by approx. 5mm) then the connector levers can be lifted upwards and in turn this will pull the connectors most of the way out. Total removal will require you to pull out gently so they are fully removed. There are 3 bolts indicated in the picture that removes the unit from the tray. I removed the bolts first as it gave me a bit of "play" to move the box around while removing the plugs but the plugs can come out first (I don't think there is a specific way to do this) (Picture 5) The picture below shows the unit removed after taking out the 3 bolts. (picture 6) The next picture shows the securing bolts (3 of them) that you will need to remove to get access to the sensor. Be careful when removing the tray as you will need to move the disconnected wires out of the way while doing this. Also - before the tray can be fully removed, there is a wire secured to it which is a bit awkward to get to the securing clip. If you are careful you can gently lift the tray up and get to the securing tab. Just squeeze these together and the clip will come off the tray. Once this is off then the tray can be lifted out... (picture 7) (picture 8) and (picture 9) Now you have the tray out the sensor can be fully visible - give it a good dose of WD40 - I found this sensor was quite tight and I used quite a bit of force (hammer and metal bar on the 22mm sensor socket) to get it loose enough to turn by hand. Careful if doing this. (3 to 4 whacks gave it up and it started to turn) the picture shows the sensor lead running to the socket. LOOSEN ONLY AT THIS POINT - You cannot see the sensor plug socket. (picture 10) The picture below shows the sensor plug / socket. It is not visible and can only be removed by feel so knowing where and how the socket is attached is important. The socket is located between the engine and bulkhead - if you look at the length of wire on the new sensor you have then this will give you a good idea of the location of the plug. The removal tab on the socket is the same as the Bank 1 socket - it is facing the bulk head. There is enough room to get both your hands in to remove the socket. Press the tab and gently pull the plug and it will come away. Take the plug out first as in doing so it will be easier as if you do the sensor first then the wires will twist as there are quite a few turns involved to take the sensor itself out. Remove the sensor and replace with the new one - take it easy at this point, due to the space involved, you could drop or damage the sensor but if you take it easy then there will be no issue. After replacing the sensor then plug it into the socket. (picture 11 and 12) The re-fitting is the opposite to removal. After completing it - and with the engine on, you will see a bit of smoke which is normal as it is the WD40 burning off and also the copper slip. It will go after a while. I hope this helps people doing the replacement - cost of both sensors was £150 (£200 if duty was applied), Denso sensors - 234-9051 - the sensors are the same for bank 1 and bank 2. Purchased from the USA
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