is200 Newbie

Maybe on other cars where you can reach the oil filter from the top of the engine then this pump would be useful but you need to change the filter from below on the IS (cant be done from the top) - isn't it easier and quicker while doing so to drain the oil while under the car doing the filter? Can this pump effectively drain all of the oil and if using it are you proposing to keep the old oil filter in the car? Would keeping a residue of oil in the engine, quite conceivable 1 litre in using the pump reduce the life of the new oil you are putting in? - Maybe 1 litre is a bit excessive but theres a bit in the filter and in the pan itself - do you know the pump can remove this residue?

What is it you are looking to buy - an oil filter tool or a new housing? Who serviced the car last? The space to remove the filter cap is limited and requires the use of the specific tool along with a socket wrench. Don't know what the garage has used but best to find one that can do the job with the correct tools. The filter cap socket is not expensive and can be found easily on ebay. There have been reports on a few users having the oil filter caps replaced too tight after a service and when trying to remove it the housing cracks. One of the reasons I do my services myself (no use to you I know but its an easy job to change the oil) Might be worth you buying the filter removal tool if you are using the same garage in the future. Have them try and apply even pressure using a long bar using the correct tool. Make sure you have available a source where you can get the oil housing from before trying to remove the cover.

I have always cleaned the interior glass with the cloth I have used to buff the car after waxing it - I have never had any issues with streaks or swirls since doing this and in using this cloth its not applying wax really, just the residue it has wiped off.

Thanks

Rain-X Anyone used this on their windscreen or windows - wife has bought it to use on the conservatory and it does work and it states its for car windscreens but not convinced...

Good or bad but I have always re-used the bolts when re-greasing the pins on the calipers. I do have a spare set of bolts that came with a set of pads/discs a while ago but not found any need to use them. I don't thread lock them.

Not an LS but a 250 with the same sort of issue. Car is 12 years old - has 27k on the clock. Has a full Lexus service history so I would presume that after 6 years they would have changed the plugs? Question now is that should they really be replaced now as its a further 6 years on ... Not the correct forum to ask but would a squirt of WD40 be adequate at this point to ensure they have the best chance of being removed in the future if sprayed down the plug recesses? Its going to be approx. 7 or 8 years + until I will get the car to 60k where due to the mileage, the plugs will require changing again. I guess it is worth asking Lexus if the plugs had been replaced at the first 6 year point...

I think I have read in a previous post on the forum that some of the lights coming on can be associated with a blown brake light bulb ... worth a check

If you have the use of some ramps then that's all you need to take the exhaust off and re-adjust yourself. I would strongly suggest you do this sooner rather than later as the bolts / connection between the boxes and centre section will rust together quite quick and will become hard to disassemble over time. The boxes are not made of the same material as the centre section and will rust quicker. There are two bolts on the centre to box joint and there are two hangers on each box. Removal is, removing the two bolts, separating the boxes from the centre section and sliding the boxes off the hangers (WD40 is ideal to enable the boxes to come off the hanger easy) Place the exhaust on the ground and you can easily straighten them up by eye - it will not be hard to bend them. Take the measurement between the centre of the exhaust cutouts to ensure you don't bend them too far. You can actually bend it back into position while on the car if you had secure ramps. I have made the rear section which was the boxes and the connection to the centre section on my last 250 and I can tell you it is really easy to adjust ... The box in the picture above looks like it has been bent in, carrier damage?

+1 to Johns comments above. Easy to take a drum off to inspect but if you are experiencing extended brake travel then it will be worth your while replacing them. They are only used for the handbrake so if you are experiencing this, they have obviously worn quite a bit (if it is wear) - MOT failure... I have put up a walk through on changing the rear shoes on the tutorial section - its an easy process and you can wind the cog in to take up any slack if that's what you want to do - I am pretty sure I have indicated on the tutorial what direction to wind it up to tighten and loosen...

... also, would the fitter of the exhaust not have noticed the misalignment and corrected ? I think you have had pool service there also from the fitter.

+1 to that Regular oil changes and engine flushes got rid of it on my last 250 - below is a link that explains it well ... http://carspecmn.com/toyota-and-lexus-v6-cold-start-engine-rattle-2gr3gr4gr/

That's the same as what I have used for years

Another point - the IS had an anti rattle rubber shim on the slide pins - pretty sure its the top one on the front callipers only. Put on there to prevent rattle I found out a while ago. But, I removed them anyway with no issue on an old IS200 I had as they split while greasing the pins and when re-assembled they did not rattle just a thought though

Could this be an issue with a broken suspension spring?

Also, let your insurer know about the spoilers - shouldn't be any cost but worth it in the long run.

The ones I had on this one and previous used 3M adhesive tape (double sided) and the last ones were on the car for 5 years, no movement. I would be wary on drilling the boot unless you have a very good sealer to apply

You could keep both cars - tow the MX .... decision made ...!

The timing is a chain. It is low mileage - was a bit concerned at first as 2k per year is not a lot for one of these - it had been garaged though and it tells. A few long journeys into ownership and its all good. I was just a bit wary on the age that's all ... It has passed every MOT and has had a full service history. Due to the age I am not going to carry on with the service history at the dealers. I think it would only be good for peace of mind if I did but I do all the servicing on it anyway so I don't really see the point. Also I plan to keep it so I know what needs to be done will be done so not really worried about the depreciation. Everything on it is receipted and kept in a folder (oil / service items etc) I don't think its run in yet ! I think I will gradually add coolant to the system - partial change the fluid as its not very easy process to do the whole system - was thinking about removing it via a syringe (I have a big litre one) from the reservoir every 6 months or so and replacing a litre back in. Was thinking along the lines that it will always be partially "renewed" to a point where its getting a small change each time (I know it holds 9 litres) ... just thought this way would be easier - stupid idea or not?? Engine flush - I did not do it when I changed the oil recently but will do it at the next change. I have always done this - no conclusive proof that it helped but on the other hand I had no issue either. Just gone by what it says on the time and a few internet recommendations. It MAY? have helped to cure the VVTI rattle on startup as it went after a few flushes and oil changes on the last one I had but again, cant prove it. It should keep the engine clean and prolong the oil I reckon so, for me, I will still use it. With these low miles I am also thinking of petrol additive every so often to keep the injectors etc clean - carbon buildup was also another issue with the last car (at least that's what the internet said!!) but again, after a few doses of the BG fluid this also went so getting off on the right foot to try and prevent any issues as I reckon I will keep the car. Wifey wants a motorhome so the car will always remain low mileage as I guess we will be out in that instead.

A couple of months ago I bought a 2006 IS250 after mine was written off. The "new" one had done 25k miles - its now on 27k ish. So I have been through the usual's and all is well. I have changed oil and filters since I bought it (have not flushed the engine like I usually do but will start to do that at the next oil change). Belts, rubbers, bodywork are all good. I will carry on with the servicing of it every 6 months (oil change etc) ... as its such a low mileage for the year (12 years old) is there anything else I should be looking at or taking it easy with. Brake fluid and a partial coolant change will be next just for peace of mind its been changed...

Does the PWR mode actually use noticeably more fuel? I have used it a few times in the 6 years I have had these cars - like mentioned above it makes the gear changes more noticeable and I believe it keeps the car in the specific rev range longer and throttle response is tightened .... having it in PWR mode, does it still require warming up on a cold start ... does it bypass the safety feature for the gear box in restricting to 5th gear until warmed up or does it bypass this it can select 6th from cold?

Good spot - never noticed this before

Not sure if it applies as a general rule but the distance from the bottom of the dip to the top used to be half a litre?