autogloss valeting

1.blitz - panel filter

2.apexi - SAFC

3.mintex - brake pads

4.skewer - Designed the custom graphics

5.kyb - shocks

6.trd - Side skirts

Cheers

Mike

Hi

other mods you may want to look at for handelling are strut braces. These will stop any chassis flex between the towers.

Performance wise? - well you could get a supercharger kit for your engine, but tbh this will reallistically only get you to around 200bhp, and will cost around £4k all in I would think.

If you did a BEAMS blacktop conversion however, the block, gearbox and ecu can probably be picker up for around £1100. You would also need the subframe as the Altezza has different mounting points to take the beams so you would bneed an altezza subframe or pay for some custom mounts welding in.

Apart from that Im pretty sure you prop shaft and diff will be fine. So prob four around £1500 all in you could get 200-210 bhp

HTH

Cheers

Mike

I wasnt happy with the last set of graphics I had on - and apparently neither was anyone on this site lol- dont get me wrong - they were fantastically designed and looked awesome - just not right for my car.

So I gave Mook a different brief this time with a bit more steer as to what I wanted............................................. and here's what he came up with:

Mook did the overall design with regards to the big graphics down the side and bonnet and then through me in a load of "jap" style fillers

oh..............and alloys refurbed curtosy of a company I have now partnered with :

Cheers

Mike

Water into one of the ignition packs?

Exactly the same as the Lexus IS200

You can get the TTE front bumper that had a built in mini splitter

Or the Qualitart qhich has a bifer front splitter

Or the Legana I think its called which looks awesome!

Have a look here

http://www.tezzaworld.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=7521

Cheers

Mike

You can always get some yellow 8mm silicon hose and wrap the leads if you are desperate.

HTH

Cheers

Mike

Im going to disagree here - sorry

the Primer and the laquer are your cheif concerns - get the primer right and you shouldnt need to really do anything with the base coat as it is going onto a smooth surface. You may as above need to flat back very lightly if you have got runs on the basecoat but light even application on 2 passes should be fine - but I would only use 3000 on this. the base coat should still look fairly flat until the laquer goes on.

The laquer - the key to getting this perfect is ................well basically not to do it this time of year unless you have a heated booth.

At the moment the air is damp and cold. This gets into the laquer and causes it to go cloudy. The laquer will also struggle to cure so you will be left with a lot of runs, and creases.

if it needs doing now rent a gas heater for a weekend to get the garage nice and toasty.

Then do 2-3 coats of laquer leaving a good couple of hours inbetween each coat. Again very light even passes - dont go over the same area more than twice.

Then flat the laquer back to remove any orange peel effect. Then asgain as above polish with harsh, medium and then fine compound to remove and scratch marks.

HTH

Cheers

Mike

You dont have to have 2 people on - i dont :)

cheers

Mike

I do run a business yes, autogloss Valeting & detailing

Cheers

Mike

That to me would be acceptable for a trade policy as it will be taken out in a business name, several cars registered, and im presuming 2+ drivers?

Get in touch with A-plan insurance - they are the broker I use, and my policy is with QBE

HTH

Cheers

Mike

Meguiars 3 stage is a very good quick fix, as aer things like black hole etc. they actually use polymers to fill in the scratches and swirls giving the effect they have disappeared. The only real way to remove them is via machine polishing.

Prevention is also better than cure, so learning a good washing technique to prevent the swirl marks is always a winner.

Basic rules:

No sponges - use a microfibre wash mitt.

Use 2 buckets - one for wash solution, one to rinse you fibre out

Dont use circular motions top clean - left to right

dont press down on the car - you should pre rinse to remove most of the muck, shampoo conditioner should then help your microfibre glide across the car.

Dont use microfibre towels to wash - the pile is not deep enough.

Anyone who wants to learn how to care for their car correctly, i do training courses at very reasonable costs!

HTH

Cheers

Mike

yeah..................again, policies that cover you 3rd party tend to be for over 25's again.

No way round it im afraid people, pay your insurance.....................and if you cant afford the insurance on a car...........................well then their is a bloody good reason for that!

Cheers

Mike

Hi

based in Knaresborough near Harrogate

Cheers

Mike

New spoiler fitted

Will be a few changes coming through ready for next season.................................................

Cheers

Mike

Some very nice looking cars there chaps - excellent work.My regular arsenal includes:

Autoglym Shampoo with conditioner

Autoglym Claybar

Autoglym vinyl and trim dressing

Autoglym Aqua wax

Rotary polisher and pads

3M fast cut plus

3M extra fine

3M Ultrafina

Poorboys Blackhole

Poorboys White diamond

Chemical guys butter wet wax

Dodo juice Purple haze

Meguiars next gen detailer

Bags fulls of microfibres

Meguiars microfibre wash mitt

tyre dressing applicator sponge

Snowfoam

A few tips for you.

1. When using your clay bar - use about a quater of the 200g bar. The clay needs to be thick enough to draw the contaminants safely into the clay. Too thin and they rest on the surface of the clay and drag and cause you more work removing micro scratches.

2. when using a clay bar - dont waste quick detailer. use some water with a drop of shampoo wax in. does exactly yhe same job of lubricating the clay bar to glide across the paintwork ant a fraction of the cost.

3. Save yourself having to use an agressive wheel cleaner everytime you do your wheels. clean them with a wheel cleaner and then take some time over them as you would your paintwork.

Polish them with SRP or something similar. Then seal them with a wheel wax. a lot of people complain this doesnt work so lets clear up a few myths around wheel wax.

Wheel wax will not stop the build up of brake dust etc. It will reduce it.

What it does though is forms a barrier to prevent the dust from sticking to your alloy and eating into it. the dust sticks to the wax.

Now this is where the wax comes into its own. You will be able to just power wash your alloys of rather than having to attack them with wheel cleaner.

4. use a proper wheelbrush (not one of the wand looking things from halfords). Most decent online detailing shops sell them at about £3.50 - they resemble pastry brushes. These take all the hard work out should you have a massive build up of dust and need to aggitate it.

You all seem to be using aqua wax - a fantastic product which I use myself - not only does it assist in drying the car but also tops your wax up.

If you are mad about your car spend £50 on some snow foam and an applicator - again these cmoe into their own during winter to remove salt deposits. Spray on as a pre-rinse and leave for 3-4 mins. then rinse off. This will pull all the surface muck off leaving you a much easier job when it comes to hand washing the car.

This will then allow you the time to wash the car as a whole rather than a panel at a time as there shouldnt be too much left to remove with a microfibre mitt hand wash.

and these are the results you get with 10 hours of machine polishing lol

A cheeky one showing a strip down the middle of the door done to show the difference

or wetsand a car for the ultimate how finish

from this :

to this

Good to see no sponges in use either lol!

Hope this helps

Thanks

mike

Some gorgeous looking cars there Baz

Very nice indeed

Cheers

Mike

I wouldnt cut the prop shaft - it will then be completely unbalanced and will damage both the diff and the output shaft.

i think you can get companies to cut and balance for you, not sure on the cost though

Cheers

Mike

You will need:

Cutom made engine mounts

ECU from a Supra automatic to enable the engine and gearbox to talk.

If its from a manual supra you will need some more wiring doing to get the Supra ecu to talk to the auto altezza ecu

some bastardisation of the wiring loom

Uprated fuel pump - you might as well go after market for this

Intercooler and pipe work plumbing in

Coilovers for the car to take into account the weight difference on the engine - i suggest coilovers as these can be adjusted.

Next you need to look at will the alteza gearbox mate up with the engine? this is where the custome mounts will also pay

However if you are drpooing a supra box in then you will need new mounts for this, a new propshaft as i doubt the existing one will fit

Geometry will need resetting

I think you will be looking in the region of £3k-£4k labour for this work tbh

You parts list will be exspensive as well

As you can see I have been looking at this as well. I am going to stick with charging my current lump. With the head being high compression as it is you can only really go low boost

Have you considered one of blits supercharger kits - adds another 55bhp - but more importantly for our cars - massive addictive hit of torque all the way through the range. torque is where we struggle so will make the car completely different.

£3200 for a full bolt on kit for the auto - includes piggyback ecu, the charger, all wiring etc.

Hope this helps

Cheers

Mike

I think the suspension needs fixing - its broken

Apart from that a gorgeous looking car - very nice

Cheers

Mike

Hi

Skirts are held on purely with tigerseal

Front splitter held on with tigetrseal and a self tapping screw in the arch at each side

Rear again purely tigerseal

Thanks

Mike

Hi

its a delta styling kit.

basically its:

TTE replica rear valance

TRD Side skirts

I believe its a C-one replica splitter.

Unless anyone can throw any light on it !

Thanks

Mike

As promised more and better photos:

Cheers

Mike

Hi yea its a delta styling kit. £200 delivered. Just ring him matey he jas a few in stock

Cheers

Mike

Well here is the dry fit of the bodykit - bit of trimming here and there and its pretty much as perfect fit

So off to my mateys for paint!! :06:

Now to think about stickers for the splitter and skirts lol

cheers

Mike

A chap from TB Developments got in touch with me after seeing some of my work asking if I could retore the paintwork on his Yellow MR2 Turbo. The paint was very badly oxidised. So he turned up and I cracked on:

First job was to test a small area to see if the paint would come back. I chose the spoiler, so you can see the massive difference it would make, and you can also see just how bad the paint was:

Some further pictures of the paint:

Wheels acid cleaned:

Snowfoamed:

After a few trials I settled on 3M Fast cut plus to begin with on a yellow pad some shots of the difference it made:

Strip up the middle of the engine cover done, again you can see how bad the paint was :

Spoiler done:

Then another pass this time with Ultrafina on a blue pad:

Car was then snowfoamed again and dried.

Now to try and make the best of the yellow. I settled on Poorboys White diamond glaze applied by rotary on lowest setting on a black finishing pad, followed by hand application of Chemical Guys Butter Wet Wax:

The end results:

Cheers

Mike