ColinBarber

Yes, if you go by the nonsense Lexus CS provide. Clearly wrong and the main page of the UX on the Lexus GB website even promotes the MY23 leather option: and the latest MY23 brochure states the option:

If you have it in EV mode it will let the battery run down, but not fully depleted as that would severely damage the battery.

LED headlights weren't really in the mainstream vehicles such as the RX until 2010+. Before then they were restricted to lower intensity uses like rear brake lights (which gives a safety benefit as the person behind can react faster as the turn on quicker), or expensive high end vehicles such as the LS. I believe HIDs did improve with startup brightness over time but it was still a disadvantage to LED which is now the dominant technology, with high end vehicle now moving to laser.

Frequently taking a lithium battery down below 20% should ideally be avoided (even with a buffer below 0% that you cannot see). In the short term it won't appear to affect things but it will accelerate ageing of the battery where capacity is lost. Your 'improved' range is just calibration. The capacity was always there, the battery management system just was unaware so a full charge to 100% and running down to 10% every few months can be worthwhile.

Almost certainly not warped - very difficult to do that. Likely to be just pad material unevenly transferred to the disc. This is one of many articles that explains this: https://alconkits.com/support/brake-pad-info/110-the-real-truth-about-warped-brake-rotors

The odd extract being posted to answer a specific problem is probably ok but we cannot host a complete workshop manual unless we have permission from the copyright owner (in this case TMC).

There is an AC pressure sensor that turns the fans on when the system goes over a certain pressure (normally when you turn on the AC). Sound like you have pressurised the system too much if it is never turning off.

For what vehicle? You have posted in the RX forum but your member information states you have a series II IS.

Yep. But the series II RX didn’t have the option for LED headlights, wasn’t really a thing back then.

If you have a rotary control for headlight level in the cabin then it is halogen, if not then it has self-levelling which is required for HID lights.

The range hasn't changed, it still falls within the 40 to 69 mile range bracket. BIK increased on all the lower brackets for tax year 2022-2003 by 1% for WLTP tested vehicles, hence 7% in Feb is now 8%. If the XC60 was tested under the old NEDC testing regulations then it would have been at 8%, and remains at 8%.

John, there are options on these vehicles. As we are specifically talking about the UX in this thread then the F Sport as standard comes with fabric/Tahara (fake/vegan) leather combo seats in black with a red flash down the centre. In 2019, the £2,300 Premium Plus Pack option changes this to smooth leather (real/from a cow) seats in either red with a black flash, or all black seats. Given the OP has a red interior there is zero debate, the seats are covered in leather. If Lexus state the vehicle has Tahara or Tahara leather then it is synthetic leather, if the just state leather (they don't use the word genuine before or after) then it is real leather. The term 'genuine leather' is mainly used in the clothing/shoe industry and essentially means it is made of the cheapest leather available, possibly not even cow leather (but at least it isn't plastic).

My wife’s UX brake pedal is spongy. Took it back after a major service when the brake fluid was changed but they didn’t find anything wrong and they checked a couple of other UXs they had in stock and were the same so just seems to be a characteristic of the vehicle.

A normal UV protected clear coat should be fine. Something like this: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/car-spray-paints/halfords-clear-lacquer-500ml-468843.html

No. Just one headlight? Sounds like the shutter that is in front of the bulb is stuck/failed. Not sure there is much you can do about that other than replace the headlight (unless you want to try and break it open, fix and reseal).

Lots of little changes to make the vehicle EURO V compliant including different piston rings, exhaust, ECU mapping, transmission tweaks, factory oil grade etc.

Nothing changed with the engine/testing. The government introduced two extra bands in 2006, and as the manual had higher CO2 emissions compared to the auto it (just) fell into the next band (L) and the auto remained in band K.

I've posted this before, but for those that haven't seen it here is an insight into the electronics that operate the diff. 40-6.pdf

looks correct. That gasket is common, used on virtually every Toyota/Lexus vehicle.

No point looking at US spec sheets or names, they aren't the same as Europe/UK. Nuluxe is called Tahara and Lexus always state if it is Tahara or Leather in this country. The F Sports seats with the Premium Plus pack or Takumi pack is leather.

Continental sum it up well: https://www.continental-tires.com/car/tire-knowledge/tire-care-maintenance/tire-pressure/nitrogen-in-tires Nitrogen in highly specialized tire service applications Thanks to these inert properties, tires inflated with nitrogen are beneficial for highly specialized service applications in demanding environments, such as aviation, mining, or construction. Dry nitrogen mitigates tire pressure variations, so nitrogen-filled tires are also used in professional race car driving, where even the smallest changes in pressure can impact ultra-high-performance vehicle handling at extreme speeds. So, now we come to the big question: is nitrogen right for your tires? The fact of the matter is that inflating tires with nitrogen is not necessary for typical everyday use on a passenger car. It might even be considered a frivolous waste of money. To be clear, inflating tires with nitrogen is not harmful. Moreover, the PSI stays steady in the long term. (Tires filled with regular air lose pressure through permeation a little more quickly.) But for the most part, nitrogen makes absolutely no difference when it comes to a loss of pressure caused by tire punctures, tire bead leaks, valve leaks, or other mechanical leaks. There’s no discernible benefit over air-filled tires, and that includes performance factors such as rolling resistance, fuel economy, and tire aging.

Woodford. Hopefully no one is stupid enough to pay that much for it.

pressure sensor is at the end of the common rail - nearest the front of the vehicle I believe. I don't think there is a second sensor, that just seems like generic diagnostic equipment allowing for a second rail (V engine) and would therefore rear 0 on a single rail engine (Inline engine).

Rear diff oil schedule for Europe is every 20k miles / 4 years. The 20k miles has always struck me as a little excessive and in the US it is something like 150k miles/lifetime. I'd go with an interval of 40k miles/4 years.

That makes sense. I should have been clearer in that you should only press against the inner ring if it is being pressed onto a shaft, and the outer ring if being pressed into a housing.