ColinBarber

Not sure how the pipes are attached - they come with the heater matrix already attached from Lexus. If you are willing to cut the pipes and join them with couplers then you can get it out without taking out the dash. The official way, preserving the pipes, is dash out. Have a read through this old thread:

It will go through a warm up and so will the petrol engine, it isn't an EV. The system also won't allow high speed EV mode unless the petrol engine is warm because if it is needed it doesn't want to instantly put a cold engine under load. By design it gives a few seconds to engage EV drive mode before it will start the petrol engine. Obviously if the hybrid battery state of charge is too low then you will get the error as stated in the OP and the engine will start. This all varies slightly depending on the model/hybrid generation but for the IS300h: EV Drive Mode When all required conditions, some of which are listed below, are satisfied, EV drive mode can be used. Operating Condition The hybrid system temperature is not high. (The hybrid system temperature will be high when the outside air temperature is high or after the vehicle has traveled up a hill or at high speeds.) The hybrid system temperature is not low. (The hybrid system temperature will be low after the vehicle has been left for a long time when the outside air temperature is low.) The SOC is approximately 50% or higher. The vehicle speed is approximately 30 km/h (19 mph) or less. (Cold Engine Conditions) The vehicle speed is approximately 45 km/h (28 mph) or less. (Warm Engine Conditions) The accelerator pedal depression amount is a certain level or below. The defroster is off. The cruise control system is not operating.* *: Models with cruise control system or dynamic radar cruise control system Tech Tips The available cruising range during EV drive mode varies according to the SOC of the HV battery and the driving conditions such as road surfaces and hills. However, it is usually between several hundred meters (several hundred yards) and approximately 2 km (1.2 miles). EV drive mode has been provided to reduce vehicle noise, such as when entering or leaving a garage, as well as reducing the production of exhaust fumes in a garage. When the EV drive mode switch is operated by the driver, the power management control ECU uses only motor (MG2) to drive the vehicle if the operating conditions are satisfied. When all operating conditions are satisfied, pressing the EV drive mode switch causes the vehicle to enter EV drive mode, and the EV mode indicator light and EV drive indicator light will be illuminated. If any operating condition is not satisfied and the EV drive mode switch is pressed, a message is displayed on the multi-information display and a buzzer sounds to inform the driver that the EV drive mode switch operation was rejected, and EV drive mode cannot be entered. If the operating conditions are no longer met while the vehicle is traveling in EV drive mode, in order to inform the driver that EV drive mode will be canceled, a message is displayed on the multi-information display and a buzzer sounds.

Yes there is a ride height sensor but only a single one that controls both headlights - so that is ok. I would guess it is the motor you suggest, obviously it could be the ECU that controls it but most likely the mechanical part (i.e. the motor) that is the culprit.

Yes they are the same result, that's the point. I don't see the concern if the amount of time actually spend on a car isn't changing.

Only one grey. I think there was ivory, light grey and black as the three options.

You don't need to do anything as the beam pattern is flat.

ML (with larger screen) was a $$$ option on the F Sport.

That's correct. It is a single piece:

I've made it sticky. Members get upset when we do this so will see how it goes.

The NX sounds like a great fit for your requirements, provided it falls within budget. The UX, which is the sister vehicle of the C-HR, doesn't have common rattle issues, so no reason to think the new NX will develop them either. But dealers would fix the issue under warranty anyway. Rear disc corrosion is a common issue across all the Toyota/Lexus hybrids. Due to regenerative braking the mechanical brakes don't get much use, especially on the rear, so they can go weeks/months without the surface being properly cleaned. That combined with brakes that use a floating calliper design with sliding pins that seize up and you have the problem you have experienced. The only way to avoid this is to use the breaks every few weeks by performing a 'hard' stop from speed a couple of times and to get the brakes lubricated every couple of years.

Probably not, damaged is caused with a normal nut and bolt where someone with a socket wrench over does it. How is the lead connecting to the battery clamp? Can you take a picture?

I assume Lexus' thinking is no corners need to be cut or more techs employed, just that instead of 2x tech each working on a single car for 2 hours (2 cars serviced in 4 man hours) you would have 2x tech working on one car, followed by the 2x techs working on the next car (2 cars service in 4 man hours)?

Best way to get the correct key is for a member with a Takumi grade to confirm their normal key fobs have the same part-codes as yours and then use their reg to order a key card. Then get someone to programme and cut the key for you. Similar to Andrew:

Faulty brake pedal switch? Are your brake lights coming on when you press the pedal and it doesn't start?

or too lazy to properly investigate. Several people have had the same response over the years, and some have purchased the correct card and programmed it themselves.

Any two part epoxy (Gorilla, Araldite etc.) will do the job if you want it permanently fixed. Otherwise if you may want to remove it at some point then good old duct tape on the outside would work.

The striker will move, just won't easily after you loosen the bolts - you have to hit it and the plate behind it will move:

If you get a long beep when trying to lock via the door handle then it indicates one of the doors isn't shut or it thinks the key is still in the vehicle. When it does this look inside to see if the door open warning light is lit on the dashboard. You don't have a spare key left inside the car do you? Wrapped your centre console in something metallic that may cause the sensors to not operate correctly? Worth changing the battery - you should be getting a warning but maybe the one you have just cannot provide enough power for some reason. Make sure you get the right one and as Linas says above, give a genuine brand from Amazon (dispatched and sold by Amazon not a third party) so you have a chance of it not being passed its best before date.

Oh yes the marketing sounds great. However whereas the 400h had a 67 bhp rear motor the UX has a 7 bhp one. It may act as a generator when braking, but generation capacity is a function of its power and therefore generates very little - and certain not enough to overcome its weight, hence why the economy is 7% worse.

Nothing wrong with the AWD models but it is an added expense which gives you a drop in performance (unlike the other hybrids that gain power from the extra motor), economy and boot space. It isn't really the type of vehicle that benefits from AWD IMO and a FWD with all-season tyres is going to perform better than the AWD on its standard summer tyres for example, but that would be dependent on your use case and environment. With regards to the UX as a suitable vehicle in general, just make sure the boot space is sufficient for your needs - it is very small.

striker is the metal ring:

The engine is good for 200k+ miles if serviced correctly - no common issues with it. Cam belt needs to have been done at 100k miles, normally Lexus will put a sticker on the cover to show it has been done - but it sound like it may have been to an independent for its 100k service. If it snaps it will damage the engine. It would be nice if the water pump was done at the same time but not so critical and will start to leak to give a warning sign long before they give up. You would probably be looking at £400 for an independent to do the belt and pump. Not too difficult in this vehicle at it is at the front.

Same as the existing 300e with regards to the warranty. We will be waiting for EU type-approval and final spec and pricing to be finalised before any vehicles are destined for Europe. It will probably be 12 months before they start arriving.

You can purchase replacements wheels from Lexus. Part code is either 42611-33D70 or 42611-33D90 (check with your dealer to confirm the correct one) but they won't be cheap.

I would like to see it included in a major service for vehicles with a floating calliper design. But I'd hate to think what service pricing would be if they started to include it.