ColinBarber

The Celica GT-Four uses a center viscous coupling as a centre diff and permanent AWD - therefore you ideally want to replace all 4 tyres at the same time to avoid unnecessary wear from different rolling circumferences. There is no such restriction on the NX which has no mechanical connection between front and rear wheels.

That is not good and normally indicates someone covering up a fault. When was it MOT'd? If should have failed for that. It might be easier to check the signal at the engine ECU. I believe it is pin 2 of connect 6 (grey and red wire): Normal behaviour is low voltage with ignition (light on) and goes high voltage when engine started and light goes out. The above is from the GS430 but I believe ECU pin outs are the same for GS,SC and LS430 5-speed vehicles.

The system is designed to replicate a traditional vehicle with an automatic transmission. Therefore when you lift off you experience a bit of deceleration to simulate the normal engine braking effect. Additional braking effort (whether it comes from the hybrid regen braking or mechanical brakes) needs the application of the brake pedal. This isn't adjustable. The NX doesn't have a single B-mode, you have simulated gears to provide additional engine braking. Note using 'low' gears to provide braking can be less efficient than just lightly pressing the brake pedal and is really there to avoid using brakes on long descents to stop overheating, especially when towing (similar to when you would use low gear on a traditional automatic transmission).

just to add, @Upex where is your diagram from? My understanding is the GS, along with RX and others, only have a single front and rear sensor. You don't have them both sides - both headlights should operate together in terms of levelling: https://lexus.7zap.com/en/eu/lexus+gs/334510/gws191r-bexqhw/4/8418/847777/

Sensor failures are a common issue and easy to repair if it is the linkage. Even 3rd party sensors can be purchased for a few £££. Here is one example:

This is an unfortunate situation. I suspect Lexus UK won't approve a warranty repair because the car has to be fault free to placed under warranty (and wheel alignment isn't covered under warranty anyway) - so it is the dealer who will have to pay for the repair, not Lexus, hence why they don't want to. In a way it is a good thing this has been uncovered now. If you needed to get wheel alignment adjusted in the future, you could have ended up with an expensive repair bill.

I suspect it is air in the master cylinder / accumulator. You cannot fully bleed the system without techsteam as you need to put the system in a special mode and do a 'zero down' the accumulator to push all the fluid into the reservoir. CAUTION: The intelligent tester must be used for air bleeding. If not used, the air bleeding will be incomplete, which is hazardous and may lead to an accident.

RX or GS? Title says RX but posted in GS forum. Have you had your coolant changed recently, or is the level low? If not then I cannot see how an airlock has occurred and is more likely a diverter not moving. A blocked heater matrix could be the cause but these tend to get blocked slowly over time resulting in less and less heat rather than suddenly having no heat.

Please record and post here if possible. The OP hasn't been on the site since reporting this issue so we don't know if it ever got resolved.

Welcome Peter 🙂

There are two types of drivers, ones that are more economical than CC and others that aren't 🙂 Certainly it is possible to beat CC by being less aggressive on the accelerator, anticipating and reacting much sooner to congestion, allowing speed to bleed off slightly when going up hill and going slightly above the desired speed if the car accelerates down a hill rather than wasting energy by braking. Equally I know people who drive as if the accelerator pedal is a switch and CC is much more economical for them, and smoother. 🤣

🤣 no. I'm never particularly happy for other people to drive my cars, but in this instance I was specifically referring to 400+ bhp Lexus Fuji Speedway division 'F' vehicles.

If they are able to do that for free then I can imagine the type of person they have employed, and there is no way I'm letting them drive my F car!

Redline MT90 is an option. Might be worth speaking to Opie Oils to see what they recommend.

The gasket, or standard coolant pressure, isn't the problem. The engines develop severe carbon build up which causes oil consumption and head gasket failures. Piston, rings, intake and EGR were reworked to improve reliability.

A severe schedule based on road conditions only relates to engine oil, filter, brakes etc and would really only be when it is nearly always dusty (e.g dirt roads) and then you need an oil change service every 4,500 km. The transmission is sealed from the atmosphere so only driving conditions should make that move to the severe schedule, not road conditions (towing, excessive idling, taxi driving etc.). IMO it is a good thing your fluid was changed, I just don't expect it to be done again for another 90,000 km (or 6 years).

Giving the customer extra choice can only a good thing here. Some people will want to wait, others not. If extra work is needed then I expect the customer to be given the choice of waiting longer or coming back another time. Obviously if something happens and they cannot give the car back in a roadworthy condition then they will have to wait - something the customer needs to consider when choosing the while-you-wait option. The winners here will be people that live far away from a Lexus dealer. It's possible to live up to 1.5 hours away from your nearest dealer, so you could waste 6 hours if you took a courtesy car option, compared to 4 hours if you waited an hour. Even worse if you weren't happy with your nearest dealer and had to travel even further.

All services are scheduled based on them taking a set amount of time. They take into account the fact that other things will need doing across a certain percentage of cars, people will bring their car in for an urgent quick fix, people will bring their car back because of a problem with the service etc. etc. I've always been able to wait for a minor service to be done, and they will schedule vehicles based on when people will be collecting them. There really is nothing new here, other than getting a major service done quickly by getting two people to work on a car simultaneously. I imagine they will restrict how many while your wait services will be carried out in a single day. The majority of people will still arrive early, go away in a courtesy car and collect late. This may just be a cost saving measure by not having to purchase so many courtesy cars.

There isn't really a set major/big service. Different things are changed at 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 years (or the mileage equivalent). In the UK there is no scheduled transmission fluid change for the CT, unless you are on the severe schedule. Mainland Europe is almost the same as the UK (although intervals are every 9k miles/15 km rather than 10k miles for the UK). Your 90 km service would be the equivalent of a UK 60k miles service. Maybe you are on the European severe schedule, or an African one? If you are on the severe schedule then the transmission fluid drain/replace interval is 90 km.

Yes, the 08886-81210 part is Toyota WS automatic transmission fluid. Technically the official capacity for a drain and refill with filter replacement is 4.2 litres on the CT engine not 4.4 litres, but close enough.

This. Either your battery isn't fully charged and therefore drops too low before the system does its cutout, or the battery is old and isn't able to hold as much capacity as it once did. Charge it up fully with a battery charger and see how it holds up, but given its age it will probably need to be replaced. Whether you need a new battery or not, I would advise you put the vehicle in ready mode rather than just ACC mode if listening to audio. Even with a good battery you are just discharging/cycling it which will ultimately shorten its life.

Just needs a turn of the beam alignment screw doesn't it?

All the best Peter, enjoy your new toy. Let us know how you get on with it. 👍

I think they are hex plugs. Drain is easy, fill is a little more difficult as the exhaust is close. They are likely to be difficult to undo if they haven't been touched for years so you want to use some penetrating oil, clean out the hex hole on the plugs and use a socket with a good fit so you don't chew up the bolt. I'll repeat myself here - undo the filler first and then drain. You don't want to be in the position of draining out all the oil and then chew up the filler and cannot get it undone.

There are different variants of the GS. For the series III specifically (2005-2012) you have the GS300, GS430, GS460 and GS450h and obviously performance varies between them. GS430/460/450h are all quick, the 450h has the best economy but with compromised boot space (especially before 2009). They are all quiet, much better than the IS, but not LS quiet.