ColinBarber

It could potentially be the crank pulley/harmonic balancer. The rubber in it could be cracking and any extra tension put on it whilst replacing the belt may have accelerated its demise, although it doesn't appear to be wobbling in the video. Worth trying to take a picture of the front if it to see if the rubber looks ok.

Tesco is no longer free as of 1 Nov I believe.

If you have a SpotlessWater site near you, and a way to transport and store it, then this is a good alternative to chemicals or filtering your own water: https://www.spotlesswater.co.uk

After a recommendation I've ordered with Kembla. They have a Portsmouth office so will cover Hampshire. Prices have risen in the last 9 months. The rapid rise of electricity prices have allowed companies to raise prices with demand, and the battery components are in short supply. I probably won't get it installed until March. 6.4 kWh 16 panels, 5kW inverter, 9.5 kWh battery (GivEnergy), bird protection, two lots of scaffolding due to east/west design. Getting on for £13k installed. E.on would be approx. £2.5k more for the same size battery, but offer 0% interest financing over 3 years.

They will at some point. There aren't enough weld spots and too much reliance on adhesive that cracks with old age on the tailgate section of the body.

To date there has certainly been fewer reports of corrosion and water ingress on the series III 450h compared to the series II 350/400h. The jury is still out as to whether that is just age related or manufacturing improvements, but given these first came out in 2009 I think we are getting to the point where we can say they seem to be holding up better than its predecessor.

Yes I think that is a translation issue, it should read the seat area rather than seat itself. The single sensor is used to determine how much heat/cooling is required for the driver. If the passenger control is different then an offset is applied to the temperature for the passenger airflow. The body/face air vents will typically have ambient temperature airflow, with hot/cold coming from the foot and windscreen vents. This is to avoid direct airflow over heating/cooling the person in the seat. Use auto mode, don't use Eco drive mode as that will restrict the climate system, and make sure your pollen filter was changed when the vehicle was serviced and is clean.

What year IS200? Manual or auto? By solenoid do you mean the starter relay?

You're driving a Lexus LS. That is a £90k+ car, so yes you do need to spend that money to get the same today. You personally might not but someone has to for there to be your equivalent in 25 years time.

For the cabin it is left of the steering wheel, behind the three vent holes shown below. There is also a humidity sensor up near the rear view mirror.

The settings are for the desired ambient temperatures of the front passengers, not the temperature of the seats nor what temperature the air is coming out of the vents. The dual system allows different temperatures to come out the side vents, rather than a standard system where they are connected together. Obviously if you have the temperatures too far apart the air in the middle will mix and the temperature is going to be somewhat in the middle of the two settings.

It could only take a couple of years to look like that depending on where it is parked. I'm sure it was changed when Lexus were servicing it.

I believe the TSB has a wear limit after which they won't replace them.

On the second screen shot if you go into options you can then change S-Flow settings which controls rear ventilation. Auto should detect if people are in the rear and disable S-Flow, then enable it when no one is there. Otherwise you can manually enable it.

Seems like they cannot do it in the time allocated and therefore don't want to. Complain to Lexus UK and go to a dealer that can do it properly in the time.

Whatever works for you but you would achieve the same outcome by lightly pressing the brake pedal - no mashing.

Unless they changed the schedule for the youngest IS300h (which I doubt) he is talking rubbish. The standard service interval for the rear diff oil is every major service (be that every 20k miles for personal use, 25k miles if you are on the extended business schedule or every 30,000 km (18k miles) in Europe). The diff oil was always changed at a major service on my 300h, and as you say it is clearly written in the schedule that comes with the vehicle. In Europe they do state every 4 years as a time interval if you aren't doing the mileage:

Yeah that is for the US only. They have different schedules to Europe.

Thanks John, I corrected my post above, 8" front and 8.5" rear.

In an ideal world the profile figure would be an absolute figure but it isn't. It indicates the ratio of the width so we all have to get our calculators out to work out the actual measurement. 40% of 245 = 98 mm. stock wheels, both 17" and 18", are 8" width. No difference between front and rear.

When you press the brake pedal the power meter will move into the charge area (1 below) which indicates the braking is being done by the hybrid system. The harder you press the more it will move until a point where it no longer moves - at that point the mechanical brakes are providing the extra braking effort. By restricting your braking to only being regen will give you better economy and reduce mechanical brake wear. You will find the needle will not alway go to the end of the meter, depending if the battery is full or too hot, but it normally will. You will also find as the car slows you get less regen and you are able to press a little harder. Just takes a little time for it to come naturally - just don't concentrate on the needle and not on the road ahead! If you need to use your mechanical brakes heavily then when you come to a stop it is worth releasing the brakes after a few seconds and creep forward half a wheel rotation and then reapply - that way the pads aren't creating a single hot spot on the discs.

I assume they will let you keep the old ones? If like the same TSB for the RC F then you will hardly notice any difference on the road, possible you would need to use a bit more force. Really you would only notice the difference on track under sustained heavy braking where you would get less performance and possibly more wear.

Do you know the fault code(s)? Depending on code it may not be the sensor at fault. Nothing really special about the O2 sensors on the IS300, unlike some Lexus vehicles that use the more expensive Air/Fuel ratio sensors. I always recommend Denso sensors, either the ones you get from Lexus directly, OEM ones or their aftermarket replacements - they are all the same quality. Other makes in theory should be fine but they sometimes have different resistance on the heater circuits which cause errors. At the bottom are the Denso parts you need for the IS. The only difference in bank 1 and bank 2 is the lead length. I've purchased from sparkplugs.co.uk before, and autodoc probably stock them as well.

just keep an eye on the timing belt. Lexus were forced to change the interval from 100k to 60k because of premature wear (caused by tensioner/pulleys failing and going out of alignment).

Same with the UX.