ColinBarber

My comment was related to assuming you are being asked to pay fair value rather than the roadworthiness of the vehicle.

I'd not dismiss capacitors as it is not necessarily to do with design. Aluminium electrolytic capacitors fail or degrade all the time, especially if the equipment design means they get hot (even within their operating spec). Just repaired an audio mixer today that had two 2,200uF capacitors on the voltage regulation circuit that had vented are were reading 60uF - unit was powering up and input stage was working fine but no audio out. Lexus LS dashboards fail because of capacitors. Lexus LS ECUs fail because of capacitors. There was also a big spell during the 2000's where many capacitors weren't manufactured correctly which led to a higher than average failure rate, however this headunit shouldn't be affected by that.

You sell at what the market will bear not what it costs to make, and especially with something subjective as art. However, a used car is a commodity so you wouldn't expect to be able to sell it for more than all the others. But it's buyer beware - do your research to understand fair value, don't assume a car dealer is doing the right thing by you.

Not on standard services. Only really when working on the electrical system or fuel system would they disconnect the battery. In fact they can't do a hybrid health check for 500 miles if they disconnect the battery because it will clear ECU faults and they need to ensure there isn't a pre-existing fault before issuing a warranty extension.

The power outlet's are protected by a 15 A fuse but the sockets are not really designed to exceed 10 A. So 120 to 140 W depending on the voltage. If connecting anything of high power, even for a few minutes, you should put the vehicle into Ready mode so the power is supplied by the hybrid battery/petrol engine and not the 12 v aux battery.

Oh I'm fully aware of that. I'm just saying that I find it very odd to move to a different technology and components and then still not be able to supply them when other manufacturers have changed components/suppliers to alleviate their supply chain issues.

I don’t believe the F Sport has different lights to the other grades. You just need to make sure you get a unit that is HID based rather than LED based to match your vehicle - which the unit you link to is, so should be fine. Seems expensive though. Worth checking if other breakers have a light available - e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275650731196?hash=item402e105cbc:g:rcIAAOSwBIBj1Ade&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwOFFAVpkk4DvMw8xfT%2FIUaNnZXPARKhQytrRM67a7mdpfzvIQgHuMAtIlfLYMLtJHSTQ%2FMyhkkO8QHeq64fcoWCPYjYS%2FcfJGLyTWT51NsUgSHlSK3TU4f8Gr%2FJys9RwAL9Rk7SnzO%2Fw4mX8KdDnB8YWSVGhf2s1ZFrvOF02K2jwnEVsMQiYeoQI3cCn3dB%2FZSlAr%2FMTWHAlS%2Bz4MXqfN4eCmr1g3A%2BFtHtgkNqaLXp9lCeiqFEc5Et9E5y0eyiuXw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR96Mt9OiYg

Good that the new model is now arriving with several enhancements including the use of UWB keys. I find it odd that they switched to a new technology but didn’t make sure the supply chain wasn’t affected by component shortages.

engine speed should be at 1,500 rpm (not that it should really matter as the engine doesn't run the AC). Low pressure side: 0.15 to 0.25 MPa (1.5 to 2.5 kgf/cm2, 21.3 to 35.5 psi) High pressure side: 1.37 to 1.57 MPa (14 to 16 kgf/cm2, 199.1 to 227.5 psi)

Yes. The law is related to ICE engines running unattended and pollution. You can set the AC to be on remotely with a Lexus EV but without the screen saying so the public would be unaware - that's the good thing about Tesla's dog mode because it informs the public that the climate control is on and displays the inside temperature.

It could be be related to rear steering, transmission etc. but you would normally expect to see a message in the small display giving you more information and an additional warning light. We can speculate all the different things it could be, but without another light or message to give us a clue the only way to know is to put a fault reader on and see what errors exist (and historical ones).

On a public road it would be illegal to do that.

Unfortunately it’s not a fuse. Unless the wiring has been damaged/disconnected then the light unit has failed and needs replacing. Several people have had these fail, and they are not cheap to purchase. Check on eBay for headlights, many of the breakers list items there. Just make sure you get the correct headlight as there are differences depending on the grade and year of IS300h.

They don’t warrant 90%, only 70%. They have designed it so it shouldn’t be less than 90% but you won’t get a replacement if it doesn’t match expectations.

Not sure it has one - not listed as a separate part which implies it is part of the pump.

But has the error code changed or stayed the same?

The UK needs 433 MHz keys. You shouldn't need two keys to wipe and reprogram in TS, but if that isn't working then you could try rewrite manual mode. RX400h door lock programming.pdf

P1300 is the ignition on cylinder 1 but this could just be a false error if the idle speed is very low and the car is just randomly cutting out. What is the idle speed when warm? You could try moving the coil pack to another cylinder to see if the fault moves with it or stays the same.

106 by the end of May, but the vast majority will be press, employee and dealer demonstrators. The Toyota is at around 700, with just under 300 of them registered this year (not quite sure how they ‘sold’ 400 of them last year).

The second one, 16604-31010, is correct. Lexus don't list the pulley itself on the tensioner, only the whole part is available so I cannot confirm the part but it's what Autodoc and others list so should be correct.

It somewhat depends on how well charged the battery was to begin with but yes, if the interior light was on for 24 hours you would have issues with a flat battery on a Lexus hybrid as the 12v battery isn't very high capacity. Unlikely to be anything more serious.

No you won't be able to fully see because the failure occurs on the inside - which allows coolant into the transmission fluid lines. If it were are simple as being on the outside then all you would get is a transmission leak and low fluid issues rather than a serve failure through water contamination. All you can do is perform coolant changes as per the service schedule to minimise corrosion, keep an eye on the unions because you can see signs of corrosion there and replace the rad every 10 years as preventative maintenance. The safest option is an external cooler.

No, other than a radiator would normally last longer than 7 years. The failure of the oil cooler could occur long before the rad itself needs replacing. Provided you get an eye on corrosion at the oil pipe connections and replace the radiator before it needs it then that's the best you can do to avoid the problem. That isn't the cause - the factory fitted radiator/oil coolers fail.

Passenger side footwell, right up against the left side of the vehicle - forward and higher from the lower door hinge.

It's more to do with the throttle motor clutch than the throttle body itself. I'd check the electrical connections to the TB first for corrosion.