ColinBarber

I'm 99.9% sure it is an interference engine.

Check the rear brake discs for corrosion which is a sign the rear callipers are sticking due to lack of use you get with a hybrid and regen braking. Nothing else really with regards to the car itself. It is likely to be vulnerable to theft through a CAN bus attack so make sure the Lexus dealer fits a tracker and geo-fence device. Check insurance quotes. It is going to feel very slow compared to a Supra TT. Those alloys look good. Is that a JDM Supra with a euro spec bonnet scope, or a UK vehicle with the headlight washers deleted?

It doesn’t exist. It is only available as part of the rack.

The part isn't available on its own - assuming it even comes apart without damaging the rack assembly. What is wrong with your one? If it hasn't been damaged by misuse (i.e. not from accident damage) then the Lexus Relax warranty should cover the replacement. Otherwise you would be advised to find a replacement from a breakers or look to an engineering company to strip it down and repair.

Hopefully some of the EV testers will get their hands on one at some point to do a comparison. I would expect the 300 to still be ahead because it is lighter, has thinner tyres and even if the one of the motors on the 450 isn't being used you still have inefficiency in turning the driveshafts and differential gears.

I don't think you will as it isn't a wide spread issue. The RC F has the same rack as the GS F, not the standard RC/GS one. I should probably move this thread into the F forum.

The early IS series III models had this issue and there was a TSB issued - I had my rack replaced as I had the same symptoms as you describe, although it would happen much sooner than an hour, and it got to the point where it was borderline dangerous due to the force needed to unstick it which sent you veering into the next lane. This was associated with a bad batch of racks from the initial production run - your one possibly sounds like it has developed the fault through wear rather than always being there. Hopefully you have Lexus Relax warranty so you can get it replaced before it is 10 years old. Here is the IS TSB - although this isn't in any way applicable to your vehicle.

You cannot get a 300h for £23k budget as they have only just been released. Engine is identical between the 250h and 300h, just the hybrid system that generates an extra 15bhp. they come with a fabric 'shelf'.

It is possibly the cause (if you have a multimeter you could measure the voltage in the morning before you start the car to confirm). If you change the battery, you don't need to register it - just reinitialise the window auto open/close by following the procedure in the owners manual.

It looks to me that they should all be sunk in, with the plastic tab holding the connector in place so it doesn't get pulled out when you remove the plug. It would depend on the pin length on the other end though.

Not under my control - I'll ask the admins.

Yes. It really doesn't make much sense to call it an aux battery for a non-hybrid vehicle - it's just the standard 12v battery.

Battery is in the engine bay. You can get one from Halford, Eurocarparts etc. or from a Lexus dealer: https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-rx-phase-2-auxiliary-12v-starter-battery-2/

If you want smaller rims then you would be best to stick with the standard sizes so you could drop to 17" rims with 215/60R17 tyres, and if you got some original Lexus UX rims then you wouldn't need to inform your insurance company.

All series III IS have either HID or LED lights with flat beams. With the facelift (MY17), all headlights were either LED single beam or LED triple beam design

Welcome Robin 🙂

Thanks for this, it is as I thought - you state how much charge you want to add. You need to know how much charge the car currently has and then do a quick bit of maths if you don't want to end up at 100%.

That possibly isn't a great ground as the it looks like that bolt goes into plastic and/or is possibly using the ECU body and therefore the wiring connections to it rather than the vehicle body. Not sure it will fry anything but there are better connection points. In that video the two possibilities are shown as arrows (assuming there is a nice non-painted metal bolt behind the bracket on the right). This is a LHD vehicle so you may have to find another bolt that is going directly into the body. Avoid the bolts holding the suspension strut though, as they might not have a good electrical connection because of paint and the rubber mount used on the strut.

I should clarify. Lot's of things are made in China, and that isn't necessarily a bad thing at all, but there is a difference between a well engineered product designed from a large established company with warranty and support staff available vs a unknown product that has been designed by an unknown source which dozens of unheard of companies brand with no real ability to get support or warranty and with little confidence that the safety standard logos printed on the product indicate that it has been designed and tested to meet those standards.

Yes, I believe the charger cannot tell what the battery SOC is - unlike DC charging, the car doesn't send back data to the charger. I thought (though I may be wrong) that when Octopus is controlling the charger and not the car that you set the amount of extra charge you require rather than the total amount. e.g. if you were at 50% and you want to go to 80% then you set the charge for +30%. You might want to speak to Octopus to confirm.

Letting a Lithium Ion battery sit at 100% will accelerate aging of the battery and you will therefore lose capacity faster than if you try to keep it to 80% or below (and ideally don't let it drop below 20%). The difference is minimal, so unless you are keeping the vehicle for 5+ years it isn't an issue, and even then you are only going to lose a few percentage points more than if you avoided 100%. If you need to go on a long journey, then charging to 100% is fine, but ideally you want to start driving soon after (i.e. don't charge it to 100% and let it sit for 8 hours before driving).

If you weren't using it then you may have overheated the brakes that caused the discs to warp.

No, you need higher profile tyres so the circumference remains the same (within a percentage or two). What size are your current rims?

Where you in B gear?

Apologies. I didn't read properly, although the white writing over the picture makes it difficult to read so I did only skimmed over it. Try swapping the ballasts - it's the same part code on each side so the fault should move if it is that. I doubt it is an earth point if the fault is that intermittent. Does your car have standard halogen high beams, with only dipped HIDs? If so, does the high beam still work when the HID goes off? The high beam circuit will use a different relay and fuse but the ground connection will be on the same body connection as the HID.