ColinBarber

Possibly an issue with the power management ECU or the relays it controls. When the issue occurs, what items still work - interior light, can you turn on the side lights, brake lights if you press the brake pedal, horn etc. etc. When you say the steering wheel doesn't fully retract, is it only partial retracting or not at all?

It is ridiculous that Lexus cannot supply keys in a timely manner (although not as ridiculous as not being able to supply locking wheel nuts) but I suspect those keys on eBay aren't the latest sleeping or UWB keys.

The warranty was administered by a third party but ultimately backed by Toyota. Your experience is common, but as shown above and by others the extended warranty was/is available even after Relax was introduced.

Yes, that is correct. Only the series IV (2016 onwards) is.

Buying a used car from a dealer/trader gives you rights - for any fault that occurs within 6 months they seller needs to prove the fault wasn't there at sale or repair for free. So you can get your water pump fixed, but you cannot insist that Lexus do it. The alternative would be if the vehicle has been serviced by a Lexus dealer within the last 12 month it will have a Relax warranty on it, which will cover the water pump. For the brakes I'd actual check the wear level - plenty of times I've been told by a Lexus dealer they are lower than they actually are when I inspect them. If they are at 3mm, that could last a year or more before getting to 2mm on a hybrid so I'm not sure you have any comeback here, unless they told you they were in a better condition than they actual are.

if you are on a nice quiet motorway there isn't a need for radar 😉

you can change behaviour in the settings, e.g.: sounds like yours were altered with the software upgrade.

In this instance I'm not sure EUR is meaning a European destination part as it isn't in the description on Toyodiy and it isn't in the same format, it would state EUR OR HONG KONG........

That shouldn't matter because the MAF sensor is after the air filter so it will correctly measure the amount of air entering the engine even with leak around the filter. But if they loosened the clamp that holds the air filter housing to the intake (circled in green below) then that could allow air in after the MAF (circled in red). Check that the hose is pushed in correctly and the clamp is tight.

No and No. Given that both banks are affected it is likely to be an air leak in the intake somewhere after the MAF sensor (e.g. a vacuum pipe) or the MAF sensor itself (did they try and clean the MAF)? The other possibility would be leak in the exhaust but where the two banks join in the middle of the floor is probably too far away from the O2 sensors for them both to be triggered.

When you turn on cruise control, rather than giving the button a quick press you need to press and hold for a couple of seconds to enable standard CC.

It sounds like a loose connection somewhere but if the 150 A ALT fuse has blown then the alternator cannot charge the battery unless the fuse has been bypassed.

I'm confused here, are we discussing the close & lock button on the tailgate or using the kick sensor to close the boot?

Welcome Larry 🙂

I imagine your sockets are connected to a 30 Amp protected ring final circuit and therefore a 10 Amp load isn't going to trip the breaker in the consumer unit. Does/did the car state what current is being supplied when charging - it shouldn't be pulling more than 10 A if it is connected to a granny charger with a UK plug on it - if it is pulling 13 A or more then there is definitely a problem. If you have had a socket replaced, did the electrician state what was wrong with the old one? I can only assume it was burnt out but that shouldn't happen unless the socket was worn or the connections on the back a bit loose. If there is a voltage drop because of a poor connection then I would expect the charger to detect this and cut out, but the socket would still work for other devices. Also the charger shouldn't be that sensitive that something else on the circuit stops it working - that isn't a fit for purpose product.

Yes

Late 2019 (MY20) RXs have Lexus Link so you can obtain location information but it isn't a Thatcham approved tracker with a warning service or easy police access etc., and it can be defeated relatively easily so you need to be careful if you are declaring it for insurance purposes.

There should never have been any doubt, the series 3 doesn’t have headlights that are connected to one of the CAN buses - this design first appeared on the RX with the series 4. A similar design exists with all NXs, UX, ES and LC plus the IS and GS facelift models - cannot remember which RCs are affected but the CT is not. There is no such legal entity as Lexus UK, it is just a trading name of Toyota (GB) plc.

I've not heard of any exterior CFRP issues across the RC F, GS F or LC. Certainly I didn't experience any colour changes on the external parts on my GS F, or if I did it was consistent across the piece so undetectable. Weirdly it's the interior pieces on the GS F that deteriorate - my guess is they aren't properly sealed at the edges of the trim pieces.

see here: Lexus Customer Relations = chocolate fire guard. Even if Lexus has stopped offering this warranty, they still should know of its existence and advised you accordingly.

try this https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-f-2008-2014/974708-rc350-rcf-mirror-to-is250-is350-isf-2.html

LOL. Academic smart != street smart 🤣

Sounds like an ABS ring gear is damaged on one of the wheel hubs or an ABS sensor on its way out.

No! Toyota use white with a black strip for ground. Black is 12v ignition switched feed, Red is +ve electrochromatic and orange is -ve electrochromatic - these feed the door mirrors.

Not really a bearing, more of a complete hub. 43550-50031