ColinBarber

Only if it doesn't get chipped which obviously can happen on the underside of a vehicle. 8 years on some railings is different to the underside of a vehicle with stone chips flying about and road salt in the winter.

It's not on the website for some unknown reason. The warranty is from Lexus though, not individual dealers, and it seems most dealers are unaware it even exists (or even some people in Lexus customer services). Here the latest thread on the subject - it lists some dealers that are able to sell you a policy. Not sure on the price for an F - it used to be around £1,100 for two years but they only sell it yearly now. In the thread above an IS owner states it is around £500 per year when previously it was £800 for two years, so maybe around £700 for a GS F.

Indeed, the latest British Standard for number plates recommends no holes are drilled, although it is still legal to do so provided it doesn't make the plate difficult for humans or ANPR to read.

All Toyota/Lexus headlights have sacrificial brackets that will snap in an accident and then additional brackets can be attached to pre-formed mountings - at least that allows one repair. Once Relax ends you can purchased the old used warranty again - between 10 years and 15 years old, which has better coverage than Relax.

Until one day when the police take it away.

No need to look for dates. The MOT history shows the vehicle was registered in 2017 however it is a MY20 vehicle - unless the previous owner has spent £10,000+ on a new dashboard, centre console and touch pad, screen, heated steering wheel and button, lights, front and rear bumpers etc.

cheapest has to be a piece of duct tape 🤣, otherwise filling with epoxy. Your dealer is correct, that part isn't available from Lexus on its own - needs a new mirror. There are copies available though: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256220936993?fits=Car+Make%3ALexus|Model%3ANX&_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111314%26meid%3D7ffa6c4f39a043d89e5c0709e01c5de2%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D385239953268%26itm%3D256220936993%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D4429486%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V2V4ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecallWithVMEV3CPCAuto%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p4429486.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A2562209369937ffa6c4f39a043d89e5c0709e01c5de2|enc%3AAQAIAAABYObhgc4Nk8%2BdtAwOww4FKLaj%2FQ5qqgDlQCuqZA43WcPFUWDERCUugbbOk7XQv0JXlBfqCg2xKF3WcPghxGMFw2oSlXvfExEaMYr7I7LmrHcP6czY1wIMt0ORyKiCWt95xldincyyBx3g%2BNDW%2B%2FhWUgTaBhK6xAm%2BJIbCOMehu%2BdwFry%2FTVTk9upKAYu9QrWFFlX5WltNjGAnOiqniMUq9mRSQZ7sESiyM%2BGtvJbBdmjE1qNRnuoV%2BIdeJ%2BSntKRjgKXVPLx1Waddje7gwd5jA%2F67mOMOFV7kzoOaBeyYSOQZJLucypUzsar4IMcHcIFSAVmJw6ZKujfepOWxGyNtWNUTIzjqyQxv86P4FH39bb6M7HZvcmZDsnDJZJ6Has9EgZKz8LMeBiZy%2FWk3nD5RYc%2Ff2PQ%2Bm1QSLr1OT9vgNXiSAr3h%2FD5r8ea7nLHmCJjgZxOR2oLGTsHTy5UtLDJyoAQ%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A4429486

Changing the odometer/speedo by nearly 3% is the issue, not the physical size.

Only marginally, whereas 255/55 is significantly larger.

Headlight body, LEDs, motors, electronics are all a single sealed unit. Any failure on any element and the whole things goes in the bin, and as spare parts have huge markup on them (compared to markup on a complete vehicle) the cost to manufacture has little to do with the price the consumer pays. People complain that insurance prices are high - is it any wonder when a relatively minor accident can result in a bill of 5 digits. It is poor that a fault not caused by accidental damage isn't covered by Relax. Same for the audio system that is also thousands to replace if it fails.

Just using seafoam through the intake or fuel won't do much for piston rings clogged with carbon. You need to use the soak method. Take out the plugs, pour in some seafoam to cover the top of the piston and leave for a few hours, vacuum out and repeat a few times (moving the pistons slightly each time). After the final vacuum out, pour in some oil (like a wet compression test) and turn over to remove any remaining seafoam and dislodged bits of carbon, then do a full oil change and put the plugs back in.

Indeed. I see no point using them if they are more expensive than any main dealer who has better access to the latest information, more exposure/experience to vehicles/faults and provides a service history that is more valuable to the resale value of the vehicle. Plus you would be getting a hybrid health check and 12 month Relax warranty with a main dealer.

If you are going for the soaking method then you need to change your oil after (because some will seep through the pistons and contaminate the oil) so do all of them at the same time, otherwise you may end up doing multiple oil changes.

However under the old extended warranty a shock absorber would be fully covered against any fault (unless physically damaged by something external to the vehicle). There is no question that Relax is inferior - they should give owners the option to pay for an uplifted warranty but I'm guessing they don't want to highlight how many things aren't covered by Relax.

They would peel those off (so people that didn't know they should be there would be none the wiser), but the VIN in the windscreen and under the seat are more difficult to tamper with without notice.

I'm assuming it doesn't do it once you start the vehicle? The flashing is indicating that the immobiliser is active, which it is even when the doors are unlocked.

Two different things. Insurance companies price policies based on risk, and that risk is determined by multiple factors including age, experience, being involved in accidents or breaking driving laws etc. The alternative is everyone pays the same, at which point people with clean driving records would be upset that they are subsidising others.

The official way is to disconnect the two connectors from the brake booster. Normally if you keep the doors closed and put the key inside, so it is no longer detectable by the vehicle, then you won't get an unexpected pressuring of the system.

Both rear shocks on my GS F were leaking at 4 years / 18k miles - not enough to fail the MOT so Lexus wouldn't replace them under extended warranty (although they would have been covered - but not Relax warranty, which is worth as much as you pay for it).

I don't think it's a thing anymore, unless people are stealing particularly valuable wheels to order, in which case a locking wheel nut might not offer much protection but I'd also say it doesn't affect Lexus owners. During the 80's and 90's the theft of alloy wheels was common - there was a market for them as low end models were only fitted with steel wheels. Now, almost all vehicles come with alloys so there just isn't a demand for second hand wheels. But the specific issue here is the insurance industry, via Thatcham, still consider locking wheel nuts a security feature and it contributes to a vehicle's insurance rating. If they are deemed standard fitment by your insurance company and you don't have them then they could decline a theft claim for them - so good to hear from HMT that Lexus would make things right.

This is being changed - you can combine with Intelligent and a lite 8p version for Go: Until very recently, customers couldn’t combine an Octopus EV tariff with Outgoing Octopus for the simple fact that both tariffs were such stonkingly good deals that combining them was effectively a ‘double discount’. We regularly review our tariffs based on market changes and wholesale energy prices, and recently made the decision to change this. We’re offering customers on Intelligent Octopus the standard Outgoing Fixed price of 15p/kWh because the grid flexibility their smart charging unlocks means greater cost savings. But we’d never want Octopus Go customers to miss out – so we created a Lite version of the Outgoing Fixed tariff to give you extra reward for your solar too. https://octopus.energy/blog/outgoing-faqs/#goandoutgoing

You don't need to go through your energy supplier. But, as an aside, if you want to switch to Intelligent Octopus and don't have a compatible EV (e.g. a Lexus UX300e) then you need a charger that they can control (e.g. Ohme) - they don't control Zappi (yet).

Not all miles are the same - 10 miles on the motorway is clearly different than 10 miles stuck in traffic for hours. Ideally they should be changed on the engine run time or number of sparks but there isn't a mechanism to keep track of that. Until recently in the US the recommended change interval was 100k to 120k miles, whereas the same vehicle/engine in Europe had a 60k schedule. More recently the US schedule has been more aligned with Europe, but clearly the plugs can go 120k+ miles. Unless you are doing high mileage I'd stick with the 60k schedule though, and you need to if you are keeping up Relax warranty - I don't see this as a big issue, you will probably only ever have to change them once during your ownership of a vehicle.

That's my understanding but I see mixed reports of people still being charged for 'extras', including the OP here. Certainly if you are getting plugs changed as part of the fixed cost then there is no point in turning it down.

There is no time schedule on plugs only mileage, as per the vehicle's service schedule. Relax requires you to service according to the schedule so you are perfectly fine not to change them before 60k miles. Owners here have confirmed this with Lexus HQ in the past because dealers keep stating these lies. But in this particular case, if the plugs have never been changed after 16 years I'd at least remove and inspect them - if for nothing else other than to ensure they aren't seized to the engine.