ColinBarber

Toyota don't make glass. It would come from one of the main manufacturers anyway so I wouldn't be too concerned if it didn't have Lexus marking on it. Given the low volume of the UX, there is probably only one, or possibly two, manufacturers that actually offer a screen. The important thing is that you get the correct screen - one designed for the HUD as it is different to the models without.

You don't have to use the side jacking points, you can also use the central front and rear positions: But yes, if you use the side points then you want a slotted block so you aren't lifting the vehicle on the seam which will fold over if not careful. Jacking points are the same for the IS and RC so I'll leave this post in the IS forum.

I attached a couple of diagrams in my previous post which may be enough. You can access the official info here for €4 per hour: https://www.lexus-tech.eu

Welcome Philip 🙂

Seems a little too long. Might be worth checking/replacing the thermostat.

8.2 litres and 2.2 litres.

Igniters have a 12v feed directly from the ignition switch and are fired from the engine ecu via direct wiring. l_02.pdfl_04.pdf

The wiring and circuit is designed to ignore any interference. For P0430, the ECU only performs testing periodically and needs two positive reading before it will trigger an error - it's a tried and tested system that is still used on cars being built today. P0430 has nothing to do with the sensor, the sensor is working fine, that's how it detected a problem. Normally this is an intermittent fault at first, as you are one the limit of what is acceptable or not, and results vary with driving conditions, but will eventually becomes more frequent and/or permanent. The only flaw is that whilst the system is testing for the Cat not working correctly, it is more often a lazy upstream Air/Fuel ratio sensor running your engine a little rich or a small air leak in the exhaust that causes to error, rather than the Cat itself (but the Cat certainly can also be on it's way out).

It will be an insurance claim as the bonnet will be deformed and need replacing, plus the pop up actuators and the sensor in the bumper need to be replaced too. Hitting a deer at 60 mph will do thousands of pounds of damage even without the pop up hood. Hopefully no one was injured (except the deer).

Can't remember on the series I but does it has a security light on the dashboard, and if so does it go out when the key is inserted to indicate the immobiliser has been disabled? When it starts, are you able to rev the engine? Is it cutting out only on idle? If you aren't getting an error code then the crank sensor is probably ok. Do you know if plugs are still sparking when the engine dies?

Is the security light going out when you insert the key in the ignition?

All European Lexus vehicles are built in Japan. The UK is aligned with the EU with regards to vehicle import tax from Japan and I thought Sweden has a higher VAT rate than the UK. Not sure if there are other duties at play here or just different market conditions/expectations that account for the price difference.

You should check for stored error codes. With the ignition on you should short pins TE1 and E1 on the diagnostic socket and count the number of flashes from Check Engine light. If system is operating normally (with no detected faults), the light will blink continuously about 2 times a second. Otherwise, the light will blink a number of times equal to the trouble code as follows: The light blinks only (.5 second ON, .5 second OFF) when indicating a number. The light will be OFF for 1.5 seconds between the first digit and the second digit of the code. If more than one code is stored, the light will be OFF for 2.5 seconds before the next code is displayed. Once all code(s) have been displayed, the light will be OFF for 4.5 seconds and then the whole sequence will repeat.

In the UK the solid colours are free, metallic paint is £770 and the 5-stage sonic colours are £1070. In Sweden you don't have the higher price for sonic colours.

The CAN bus / headlight issue is Toyota specific, which obviously includes Lexus. Some other brands have other, similar issues, and best to avoid anything Land Rover, but there are probably weak spots in most vehicles - research on forums for other brands you are considering.

The car is sensing that the physical resistance of the window is greater than normal, as if something being in its way, and therefore the anti jam safety feature is kicking in. As has been said, clean/lube the edges of the glass and runners. If you still have a problem then disconnect the battery for 30 seconds and then perform window initialisation which will make the vehicle learn the resistance for auto operation to function.

Just below the master cylinder:

No. Yes (for the NX series II), no (for the NX series I). Toyota/Lexus use Denso as the OEM for the wiper blades, normally a good starting point for replacements if you didn't have a problem with the original ones.

Different options may be available in different countries. It isn't available on a UK spec UX.

It should clear itself once you start driving (it may take a little time).

I'd have thought 16 hours was reasonable, probably quicker still for a Lexus dealer/specialist. 8 hours timing belt/water pump, 4 hours full service including plugs and 2 hours per shock. 28 hours seems like it was estimated not having done that work on that particular vehicle before and therefore over estimated. It can pay sometimes to have a specialist to do the work as they will complete it in less time (but Lexus won't be 4 times quicker so you would still be £££s in at £ 52 ph).

He can say what he wants, but legally he has to, or you can get it repaired elsewhere and he has to refund you (his choice). https://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights/advice/the-car-i-bought-has-a-problem-what-are-my-rights-aAnMC5b0ZzJb

I seem to remember the LS has a rear AC unit for both the rear passengers and active cooling of the hybrid traction battery. I think there is only one compressor and condenser but two evaporators and I imagine the extra high port is on the pipework that goes to the rear unit?

which is why it is probably better to rely on the built-in bio security of the phone.

That seems an odd fault, normally these are 100% reliable on a saloon car where the heating element cannot easily be damaged. Is the rear screen genuine, or has it possibly been replaced? Does everything else work ok, including the Air Con, as the demist signal passes through the AC control unit? There is a relay that operates the rear screen element, but it isn't a standard cheap mechanical relay, it is a solid state one with additional circuitry and around £100, not something I'd recommend replacing without doing proper fault finding to be sure it is the problem. Was this a private purchase or via a trader? If a trader then take it back and get it fixed as all faults within the first 6 months are assumed by law to be there at purchase unless the dealer can prove otherwise and they must fix the problem or compensate you.