ColinBarber

Options are limited. If you want an AGM battery then your only real option is a Lexus one from a dealer. If you are ok with a standard flooded battery then as per kotofeus' post above, a standard Bosch battery will fit, you just either need to open up the vent hole, or find a vent adapter to allow the existing hose to be connected (leaving the vent hole on the other side of the battery plugged).

S-Flow appears to be on all models, with either 2 or 3 zones (E below). You want to disable it so you get air to the back. If it's on auto then you will get restricted air flow to the rear if passengers aren't sitting there.

That would depend if your vehicle has AVS and a Sport + mode, which will firm up the suspension compared to normal.

Normally you would have a little pedal travel before the brakes engage, are you saying there isn’t any movement at all?

Engine light would definitely be on if it was in limp mode.

Here is one option (genuine Lexus replacement) https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-rx-phase-3-auxiliary-12v-starter-battery/ You don’t need to have another 12v supply connected whilst you replace the battery, but you would need to reinitialise the auto windows etc. if you don’t.

Have a look through this thread, and the others that get mentioned in it. Roof bars, rear light seals, body joints that are glued are all sources of water ingress as these vehicles age.

Rain water shouldn't enter the cabin, it would run down the windscreen and into the scuttle panel and drain away at the sides within the engine bay area, not the cabin. You would need to remove the wipers and cowling to inspect if water is draining correctly and clear out any debris from the drains. I'd inspect your windscreen to make sure there isn't any corrosion on the frame that has compromised the bonding - this is a more likely source of water into the cabin. The other source of fluid (coolant rather than rain water) on the IS200/300 is a failure of the cabin heating matrix which would need to be replaced or holes repaired.

If a live error, which makes the engine go into limp mode, is cleared then it would go back to normal. Obviously if the fault was still there it would drop back into a fault condition. Just clearing historical errors/saved data that is no longer contributing to a current error would have no effect.

Depends how serious the ECU thinks the problem is. Certainly you would expect the fault light to be on if the MAF is playing up, but not necessarily with a blocked exhaust.

Worth turning S-Flow off it you have it enabled to allow better airflow in the rear.

The EGR won't restrict the engine from revving past 3000 rpm. You should check for intake air leaks from the vacuum pipes and that the MAF sensor is correctly connected and clean. If that all appears ok and there are no fault codes (either pending or actual live faults) then you should look at the exhaust - possibly the cat has broken up and is restricting air flow.

It will get better. Within 12 months all these chargers will need to provide contactless payment as an option and operators will be forced to make them reliable. https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2023/1168/made

They don't really mention the nomenclature these days but when the first hybrid launched, the RX, it was positioned as having the economy of a 2.0 l RX but with the performance of a 4.0 l V8, hence it was called the RX 400h even though it only had a 3.3 l engine. I can only guess that 190 bhp is the cut over point where it moves from 250h to 300h (the lowest 300h to date is the series I NX with 197 bhp) - this would be the first time a model gets regraded just because of a bump in power.

I wonder if Lexus are struggling with pre-orders for the LBX. First 500 orders get a free service and now a relatively low interest rate and £500 deposit contribution - you don't normally get those offers until you have exhausted the initial interest.

You are probably correct but given that the number before the h is meant to signify the equivalent size of a normally aspirated petrol engine, does such a small increase in power really warrant a change from 2.5l to 3.0l.

They are visible on the front and rear bumpers if you do have them.

Definitely water ingress rather than just condensation. Check the sunroof drains and also look under the trim to the bottom of the boot for any water. You need to find the source and correct the issue before any water gets to the hybrid battery.

Probably. The chip box is designed to modify a stock engine, not one that has been remapped. If it was remapped properly on a rolling road then you should have an optimum set up. If you want more power then your tuner will need to remap it again to further increase boost pressure, but you should make sure the engine internals are upgraded to handle the extra power. Basic plug-in generic remaps aren't really recommended on this engine, it isn't a VW/BMW engine that is available in multiple power levels that you just unlock the next level.

It's a separate legislation to cars, but there will likely be a similar ban - too far away to know for definite if it will or will not be changed/dates moved.

No problem, I've moved it into the correct forum. Not sure it would be worth it TBH. 50 W isn't much, most portable car heaters are 100w+ and they work ok in the small space of a cabin, but a garage is much bigger - you would probably be losing heat faster than you are making it. Also worth considering that a 50 W solar panel is only capable of producing 50w in optimal conditions. In the winter, when you actually need the heat, it will product much less. As an example I've a 6.7 kW solar array on my house, currently it is very overcast and drizzling so I'm only producing 226 W. Low power tube heaters are quite good for taking the chill off a garage, but would needs a mains connection and be on for quite a few hours a day. e.g.: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hausen-Electric-Tubular-Heater-Greenhouse/dp/B01BPA18JU?th=1

American Model Years tend to start well before the beginning of the calendar year. Toyota/Lexus tend to start producing yearly updates in Aug/Sept/Oct - in the UK we have to wait a month or two afterwards because of the time it takes for the cars to be shipped around the world.

They should use slotted blocks, but most won't. Sometimes it will be ok and at other times it won't because the car raises at an angle and pushes the seam over, or as Jon states a claw creates a small loading point. Structurally it isn't a problem but you would need to get it back into shape so you can use your scissor jack (if you have one) and paint over any cracks made in the paint/stone chip otherwise it could start to rust.

You need to do some hard braking 60-10 mph to clean the pads/discs and correctly transfer pad material to the disc surface. You on'y get the sound as the vehicle stops because above 5 mph most of the braking is electrical regen rather than from the mechanical brakes. Toyota OEM are typically noisy and create lots of dust. For a CT consider replacing with EBC Greenstuff pads.