ColinBarber

If you aren't using the vehicle at least a couple of times a week then yes, you will run into issues. But I think the OPs specific problem is worse than that if it is losing charge overnight.

The used car market has taken a bit of a beating over the last couple of months so it is probably more related to that but yes, once insurance renewals start going crazy then ES values will drop.

It had one fitted and made it easier to steel as it provided more leverage and stopped the wheel itself being damaged.

This seems to confirm what I thought: https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/8513048030

Drain once the vehicle has gone to sleep should be 0.05 A. This should help, although you need to push in the door switches rather than the latches in the video and you would need to disable the interior sensor on the alarm otherwise it will go off with the doors open:

Unfortunately I believe the part you are looking for comes as part of the motor assembly and isn’t available on its own. If you purchase a secondhand motor, make sure it includes that part. Also make sure you use the full part code, not just the category code. E.g. 90099-05157 for the nut. 85110R MOTOR ASSY, REAR WIPER 85130-48030 1 € 218.83 85132A COVER, REAR WIPER SHAFT 85132-53010 1 € 4.66 85168R NUT, REAR WIPER LINK PIVOT, NO.1 90099-05157 1 € 5.26 85169R WASHER, REAR WIPER LINK PIVOT, NO.1 85134-53010 1 € 6.56 85178R NUT (FOR REAR WIPER ARM SETTING) 90179-06158 1 € 1.20 85190R ARM ASSY, REAR WIPER 85241-48040 1 € 44.76 85192R COVER, REAR WIPER ARM 85292-28030 1 € 4.59 85214R RUBBER, REAR WIPER 85214-30280 1 € 11.51 85220R BLADE ASSY, REAR WIPER 85242-48030 1 € 12.81

They can be cut off in a couple of minutes, quicker still you can just cut off the bar and leave it on and many people get the wrong size which allows them to prise it off.

Minimum thickness is 8.5mm. If they are original discs then that figure will be stamped on them somewhere. INSPECT DISC THICKNESS Using a micrometer, measure the disc thickness. Minimum thickness: 8.5 mm (0.335 in.) Standard thickness: 10.0 mm (0.394 in.) If the disc thickness is less than the minimum, replace the front disc.

You will notice more loss once temperatures go negative - capacity holds up quite well when temperatures are positive Celsius. Much of your range loss would be heating the cabin. https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-502-discharging-at-high-and-low-temperatures

As has been commented, you do get a low battery warning. Unless you have managed to discharge it in the time you were away from the vehicle (cheap battery, sat on the key for hours etc.) there is the possibility of localised interference at the location where it doesn't work.

Certainly easier to go from auto to manual and keep the same ECU. As you say you need to fool it into thinking the auto box is still there and functioning correctly. All depends where you are getting the other parts from - if the donor car also has an ECU as well you might use it for ease.

Do you mean a series I IS200 1999/2004? This is the wrong forum for that vehicle but take a look here - it is under the seat and I think you have to pull out the carpet unless you cut it.

When a new car is type approved for sale, vehicle regulations means the ODB port must be within 1m of the steering wheel with no requirement for a tool to access it (I.e. if it is covered up it must just be a pull away panel).

All Lexus models are the same - deadlock is dangerous if you lock it when someone is in the car, hence why you need to double press to prevent you doing it accidentally. It only protects against someone smashing the window anyway - that isn't how vehicles are being stolen so offers no protection.

Try pushing the glass at the same time as adjusting it with the switch to give it a helping hand - to feel if it is trying to work. Also try moving to the extreme left/right to make sure nothing has been caught up in the mechanism to prevent it moving correctly. I'd guess either the motor/gearing has failed or wiring broken between the mirror and the door ECU. Try listening to the mirror when trying to operate it, you might be able to hear the motor spinning.

Sadly, yes.

It could be. If possible check your brakes lights when you press the pedal, if they fail to come on then the switch is probably the issue. If they work when it doesn’t go into Ready mode then there is another issue causing the problem.

I think you have to manually open and close the tailgate once to initialise it.

You need to remove the wiper arm and move it around one notch on the splined shaft.

Lexus use hub-centric wheels with flat washer wheel nuts. If those wheels are original Lexus wheels then the nuts are wrong, if they are aftermarket that need the wheel nuts to centre the wheel then you would use tapered ones.

This is what I do and I don’t worry about the 5 to 10% efficiency loss. However some people are more sensitive to AC and the effect it has on their eyes and skin so this may not be an option, even after making sure the vents are directed away from the face or having nanoe technology.

Mashing the throttle puts the engine into its peak power band almost instantly and keeps it there. It is the most efficient way to achieve maximum performance and similar to the way a jet engine or speedboat works where the engine speed/power is decoupled from the vehicle's speed. Any other method (progressively squeezing the throttle, using 'manual' gears) will result in slower performance. There is no debate here, just physics. Normally you putting you foot down is enough. You can use the manual gears (there are no gears, it is just simulated), so the engine is revving higher before you want to accelerate which will mean the engine reaches peak rpm a fraction of a second quicker but there wouldn't be much gain in reality. Sport mode will give a quicker throttle response and greater electrically assistance with partial throttle, but at wide open throttle the vehicle gives maximum power in all modes.

or British car. Yes, it was the European manufacturers that were penny pinching. It led to the Japanese manufacturers agreeing to put indicators on left for all international vehicles so there was consistency. That penny pinching still goes on - Most RHD vehicles from European manufacturers are compromised because controls aren't reversed. If Toyota decide a control should be nearest the driver then they maintain that for both LHD and RHD by creating a mirror image for the dashboard / centre console - you don't find that level of detail on most LHD designed vehicles.

I doubt there was anything wrong with batteries replaced under warranty other than they had been deeply discharged and damaged that way - which is technically abusing the battery and really shouldn't have been replaced under warranty - although almost impossible to prove one way or the other and as you say are probably being replaced because it is easy and shows some good will. Most posts in this thread are for issues where people have been using accessory / ignition mode rather than Ready mode when sitting in the vehicle. This will drain the battery very quickly, it is small and the vehicle's electronics, heating/fans, side lights, audio system etc. do take a lot of power. There are at least 10 warning throughout the user manual for this: Auto power off function ● If the vehicle is left in ACC or ON (the hybrid system is not operating) for more than 20 minutes with the shift position in P, the power switch will automatically turn to OFF. ● If the 12-volt battery is low with the shift position is in P and the power switch is in ACC or ON (the hybrid system is not operating). The power switch is automatically turn to OFF. However, this function cannot entirely prevent the 12-volt battery discharge. Do not leave the vehicle with the power switch in ACC or ON for long periods of time when the hybrid system is not operating. To prevent 12-volt battery discharge, ensure that the hybrid system is operating while setting up the display features. To prevent 12-volt battery discharge Do not use the functions when the hybrid system is off. To prevent 12-volt battery discharge Do not use the functions when the hybrid system is off. To prevent 12-volt battery discharge Do not leave the lights on longer than necessary when the hybrid system is off. To prevent 12-volt battery discharge Do not use the USB charging ports for a long period of time with the hybrid system stopped. To prevent 12-volt battery discharge Do not use the power outlets (12 VDC) for a long period of time with the hybrid system stopped. To prevent 12-volt battery discharge When the hybrid system is stopped, do not use the wireless charger for longer than necessary. To prevent 12-volt battery discharge, ensure that the hybrid system is operating while setting up the display features. To prevent 12-volt battery discharge, ensure that the hybrid system is operating while the changing the settings of the head-up display. To prevent 12-volt battery discharge ● Turn off the headlights and the audio system while the hybrid system is off. ● Turn off any unnecessary electrical components when the vehicle is running at a low speed for an extended period, such as in heavy traffic. Charging the 12-volt battery The electricity stored in the 12-volt battery will discharge gradually even when the vehicle is not in use, due to natural discharge and the draining effects of certain electrical appliances. If the vehicle is left for a long time, the 12-volt battery may discharge, and the hybrid system may be unable to start. (The 12-volt battery recharges automatically while the hybrid system is operating.)

The diff has different gearing between the auto and manual models. This isn't one or the other. It is achievable but IMO you would be crazy to go through all the time and expense in doing this for what is essentially a 20 year old car in the UK - I don't know if the values in Oz make it worth while.