ColinBarber

I agree, they are normally difficult to remove so they don't just fall off. Unless you were incredibly unlucky and flicked up stone from a vehicle in front hit at just the right place to pop it off (or incredibly lucky that it hit a small replaceable panel and didn't damage the bumper).

A CAN bus attack doesn't need access to a fuse box, just access to the bus wiring which is present at the headlights. If they have strengthened the CAN bus security by using encryption, authentication or proper firewalling then it should be ok. No way to know from the press information though.

Does the car or charge show what kW rating it is actually charging at? The 300e can only charge up to 6.6 kW but that should mean fully charging in around 8 to 9 hours.

Worth looking on eBay or local breakers for a replacement. We didn't get your generation of ES in the UK so I don't think many people here will be able to offer any specific advise. Try our sister site: https://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/

As above from Steve, I would give the camera lens a wipe. Multiple beeps when you try to lock are normally because one of the doors isn't shut or a key is detected inside the vehicle.

Forced EV mode is designed for very small distances where you don't want any emissions or noise - e.g. moving your vehicle out of a garage, or pulling up the driveway late at night. You shouldn't really use it in normal driving - it is less efficient than letting the car control when to use the petrol engine or not. If you want to use when stationary that's not a problem. The time you you get will vary depending on the power draw, e.g. if you have lights, AC, heated seats on etc. If the battery gets low the petrol engine will kick in to charge it back up and shut off again, and the cycle will repeat indefinitely (until you run out of petrol).

This is how TSBs work unfortunately. The owner needs to complain of the symptom in a TSB in order to have the work done - which needs to be authorised by head office so the dealer will be paid for their labour.

Strange one. I suspect it is an electrical fault on the instrument cluster - something like a bad voltage regulator or capacitor so the signal level is too low once it gets past a certain rpm - or the gauge itself is faulty. I'd be tempted to purchase a used instrument cluster on eBay, swap the whole cluster first, then swap the gauge to help narrow down the problem. Otherwise you would at least need to pull the old one out so you can measure voltages whilst it is running.

I think Toyotec do bigger jobs though.

Transmission issues are very rare, it is possible that despite being a master technician, he/she has never seen this issue before. Have you tried contacting Toyotatec or Toyotec - both in Surrey so not a million miles away from yourself (not sure if Toyotatec would take on such a large job).

Seems a reasonable price. Will it make the car sound better - depends on your definition of better but they should be able to tailor the design to meet your needs.

No issue with disconnecting the battery for a period of time, other than you will need to reinitialise the auto windows as described in the owners manual. You should disconnect the negative terminal first to minimise the chances of shorting out your battery as you disconnect the positive terminate and accidentally touch the spanner on the car's bodywork. If you aren't removing the battery then there is no need to go near the positive terminal though, just disconnect the negative and make sure it cannot swing back and touch the battery terminal (put a rag around it to insulate it). The question is why do you want to disconnect the battery for a week? The 12 v battery should easily survive being left for 2 weeks+ if it is fully charged. If you are concerned about the battery going flat then disable smart entry. If you have your battery disconnected then your vehicle's alarm won't be operating.

Locking wheel nuts aren't fitted at the factory so aren't spec'd/sourced by TMC. They are only fitted to enhance a vehicle's Thatcham security rating - so these are either commissioned by Toyota Europe or Toyota GB.

When you say it initially presented itself as a vibration, I assume it has now had a compete failure? If it was just the damper plate then that should only be a few hundred pounds to replace. But if that failed and damaged other components then I guess it could need a new transmission, in which case you are best to look for a second hand unit from a breakers - it certainly wouldn't make financial sense to purchase new Lexus parts or for a Lexus dealer to charge you £200 per hour to fix it.

I assume you have HID/Xenon headlights on your IS? I doubt it has anything to do with the auto setting, just that the bulb is failing to start intermittently and by turning off/on by cycling switch through auto/side/on it has another attempt to start. It would be worth swapping the igniter or the bulb from one side to the other to see if the fault follows the bulb or igniter. You can then replace the faulty part, although if a bulb then it is recommended to replace both sides at the same time.

I can only speculate it is a commercial decision. It should be quite easy to contract another manufacturer to make locking wheel bolts. You can purchase compatible McGard locking wheel bolts for the NX and get them delivered in a couple of days.

If one oil provides less resistance compared to another then the engine will be more efficient, all other things being equal. Possibly you don't see enough of a difference to measure it with lots of other external factors, or maybe there were also other differences in your two oils. Toyota/Lexus continue to push this to get better economy and emissions figures - it would be far easier and cheaper to still go with 5W-30 if it didn't make a difference - most current models use 0W-16 with the very latest now using 0W-8. But the engine has to be designed for such low viscosity oil - always stick with the grades recommended in the owners manual. Definitely quieter with thicker oil.

Some photos here but doesn't state what type of cutting bit was used (doesn't look like a circular cutting disc). https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/144861-retrofitting-oem-reverse-camera/?do=findComment&comment=1309077

I guess it would get high 30s mpg. It would essentially become an RX350h (which has a combined WLTP mpg of around 43 mpg) but carrying the 170 kg extra weight of an oversized battery will make it less efficient.

Yes, that's correct.

This would very much depend if you have the ability to charge the battery or not on the 450h+.

Looks fine compared against this original press photo https://media.lexus.co.uk/images/ls-600h-exterior/#lg=1&slide=5

No, just their advert expired. It’s back up now.

What was the time period between having the brakes replaced and the problem reoccurring?

They did (different to the RC F colour): https://newsroom.lexus.eu/blazing-carnelian-a-new-colour-debut-for-the-2021-lexus-lc-coupe/ Yes only one. It is a sonic paint with 5 layers which gives it depth and will look different depending on the angle and lighting conditions. Digital cameras struggle with red but those pictures look particularly inaccurate - they appear to have been processed - I doubt the car has been wrapped a different colour.