ColinBarber

If the battery was just what we would call flat (e.g. 11+ volts) then you would have been able to connect up a jump pack and 'start' the vehicle almost immediately. With a heavily discharged or faulty battery, it will drag down the voltage of the jump pack/battery where the overall system voltage is still too low for the vehicle's electronics to function correctly - it needed a few minutes to build up a small amount of charge in your 12 v battery before successfully allowing the vehicle to enter Ready mode.

Unfortunately we are all too aware of this issue on these forums. Back as far as 2021 we had reports of stolen RXs where the owner was sure the keys weren't relayed - very likely to have been a CAN bus attack, we just didn't know at the time.

Yes you can use that connection point. It's better to have it directly connected to the battery but no problem using the jump point.

No special procedure. Easy for any competent mechanic to do.

Certainly worth cleaning the MAF as a starting point.

I’ve always felt the 20k interval for the diff oil was at odds with the schedule for other fluids (too frequent). I don’t think there would be an issue if it wasn’t changed for 40k miles provided the level hadn’t dropped.

Sounds like normal auto behaviour to me if the cabin temp isn’t dropping. Once up to temp the air goes cold (well ambient and might feel cold if you have had 30+ deg air directed at you whilst the cabin was getting up to temp) and is directed to the body and away from feet. Adjust the vents or use manual air position selection if auto isn’t working for you.

The same was said when the CT launched but that went on to be a good seller, and was a stepping stone vehicle to get a new demographic into more expensive models in the future.

Cars are a wasting asset and are therefore exempt from CGT.

Looks like an exhaust leak at or before the downstream O2 sensor in bank 2 which is keeping the sensor reading lean (0.1 v) at idle.

In that case you can use a normal mains extension lead, rather than needing an extension cable on the charger output 👍

Sounds like you need a new battery - that one has probably been discharged too much, it will be damaged and will struggle to hold a charge. If you have mains near the vehicle then a small intelligent trickle charger will stop it discharging. Something like this, possibly with an extension cable if your mains supply is more than a metre away from the vehicle: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/battery-maintenance/battery-chargers/noco-genius1-1-amp-battery-charger-230262.html Alternatively a solar charger that plugs into the ODB port will prevent, or at least slow down, discharge - although probably not much use at this time of year with lack of sunlight.

The codes are just Toyota publication codes, they don't really mean anything without an index. I think EM at the beginning is Electrical Manual and the E at the end is for Europe region. EM05B5E relates to the 2007 to 2012 model, with the others being the later refreshes.

The new UX300h has been announced (although not by Lexus UK yet) which has the improved drivetrain as the new C-HR

Active in all modes, exactly the same as your RX (you don't need snow mode to activate the rear motor, it is always used when needed for performance, stability or traction).

Possibly, but EVs have much higher low end acceleration so people might drive them faster (at least get up to speed more quickly). I definitely accelerate slower in a hybrid - under partial throttle I do tend to back off a little to avoid the engine revving too much whereas in a manual I'd put my foot down more.

Hopefully that is an error rather than by design. You need both ends to be locked to stop someone removing it. If the car is on a schedule then it should lock/unlock the charge port with the doors.

No heated windscreen, other than a small area to release frozen wipers from the glass. Check you aren't in recirculate mode, which can be noisier, and also worth checking your cabin filter behind the glovebox isn't blocked (or missing).

I’ve the official Lexus ones which I purchased second hand from a person that sold their UX and so no longer required them. They are, like all Lexus roof bars, rebranded Thule ones and work well without generating excessive wind noise. Sorry, no idea about a roof box as I don’t have one.

Normal brakes.

Officially yes. Lexus state the transmission fluid is for life and doesn't need changing. Some people prefer to change it every 60k or 100k miles as there is no question the fluid will degrade over time and use - just whether it degrades enough to be an issue and certainly there are many Toyota and Lexus hybrids with 150k+ miles without ever having had the fluid changed.

The RX is a substantially more expensive vehicle so comparing sales is difficult and the new NX has definitely taken some of the RX sales. The RX theft issue is greater for Lexus because there are quite a few more on the road because it is all 2016 to 2022 RX vehicles affected rather than just 2019 to 2023 for the ES. SUVs are more desirable too. So theft numbers are higher and Lexus received bad publicity as a result.

It doesn’t have a hud. I guess the price is ok given the mileage but don’t think you need it to be that way. These cars are ultra reliable so a little more mileage won’t hurt. The difference, other than material and adjustable headrest on standard seats, is the sport seats have larger bolsters for better support when cornering. I believe the stiffness of the main seat cushions is the same.

Hi Adam Have a read through this recent thread which may help answer some of your questions

Understood. I initially thought you were saying your insurance wouldn’t cover the damaged.