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ColinBarber

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Everything posted by ColinBarber

  1. There seem to be a few sports around without the correct grille, hopefully these aren't being incorrectly replaced after being involved in a front end knock. The grilles are interchangeable.
  2. no, the design pack isn't standard on any model. This does look like the standard design pack, which has been colour coded. The vehicle is pre-facelift because it doesn't have the new grille, and is possibly an SE-I or lower because it doesn't look like it has LED headlights (although difficult to tell from the photo). The roof rails have been removed which also gives it a different look.
  3. The 300h primary market is for company car buyers and completes directly against low powered diesels which also can be purchased with sporty looks. The IS isn't designed and built solely for the UK market, and with Lexus GB/Europe being a niche player they don't have the ability to bring out all variants in this region. Whilst certainly not sporty, if you want more performance you should be looking at the IS250, and its replacement the IS200t once it comes out. Unfortunately the IS350 is unlikely ever be released in this country however that successfully completes against the german equivalents in the US.
  4. I believe there should just be a plastic coupler which joins those two hoses together. The hose on the left is the main feed from the throttle body and goes down to a vacuum surge tank which then feeds to the other hoses coming back up. The hose which goes down under the engine cover is the feed from the surge tank to the Vacuum Switching Valves (VSV). One of those controls the ACIS valve which changes the air intake path within the inlet manifold at certain engine revs. This won't be able to operate if it doesn't have a vacuum feed so I suspect your lack of power coincided with the ACIS trying to operate. The part code of the coupler is 90412-05005 which you can see in the following diagram: http://eu.toyotaspares(blocked word)/images_eu_a2/172567B.gif The part should only be around £5. Until fixed you should plug up the left pipe, the one with the vacuum, otherwise the engine is pulling in air which isn't being metered and will therefore probably run lean, especially on idle.
  5. isn't that correct for 9,000 miles service schedule LSs? When the service schedule went to 10,000 the timing belt was at 100,000 miles.
  6. I think you have to delete the vehicle and then add a new vehicle complete with the device ID.
  7. I'm seeing around a 2 mpg difference, obviously with the fuel computer given a better reading.
  8. no major problems with the series II RX300 other than the air suspension can be a bit unreliable so you may want to avoid the SE-L models. If you can find an RX 350 within budget then that would be the one to go for.
  9. The MAF sensor is very important to the running of the car as it determines how much air is entering the engine. As the hot wire within the sensor becomes dirty over time the sensor indicates more air is being drawn in than actually is. The ECU, using this data, will start to add more fuel leading to poor idling, poor throttle response, increase in fuel consumption and a reduction in power. I recommend that the sensor is cleaned every 20,000 miles or every 2 years as it is very easy to do. The pictures have been taken from a GS430 but the procedure is the same for all models using 4.3 3UZ-FE engine. The MAF sensor is located on the exit of the air intake box The easiest way to remove the MAF sensor is to remove the top cover of the air box. First disconnect the MAF sensor connector (circled in red), undo the 4 lid clips (circled in blue) and then loosen the pipe clip (circled in green). The cover can now be removed. Once the cover has been removed you can now gain access to the two screws which secure the MAF sensor. Remove the two screws and pull the sensor from the housing. Looking down the tube of the sensor you should be able to see the two wires. One of the wires may look darker than the other but both will probably be dirty. Once cleaned they will both look shiny. Spray 99% pure isopropyl alcohol (available at electronic stores) onto the wires to clean and shake dry. Be careful not to use other solvents as they may damage the sensor. The wires will probably need more than just a spray to clean them so spray the alcohol onto a cotton bud and use that to wipe the wires. Be careful doing this as the wires can be easily damaged resulting in the need for a new sensor. The MAF sensor also incorporates the intake ambient air temperature sensor so it’s a good time to also give that a quick wipe. Once clean, make sure all excess cleaner has been shaken away, smear a tiny bit of oil around the sensor o-ring to make a good seal and reinstall the sensor into its housing. Refit in the reverse order making sure to plug the connector back into the sensor and the pipe clip is tight to stop any air leaks.
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