ColinBarber

You need one that will operate at 433 MHz.

Firstly you need to confirm what frequency the key works at. Different countries use different standards so a US key for example won't work on a UK car.

You are correct, either the recalls were performed or your particular vehicle didn't apply. You can also check this on the Lexus website: http://www.lexus.co.uk/owners/your-lexus/#/RecallInformation Whether the database is 100% accurate is another question.

you really shouldn't use a lot of grease, it is counter productive. The slide pin with the bushing should stop the rattling. Some people remove bushing because an old one can be difficult to reinsert, or they purchase new slide pins but get two of the bottom ones.

I don't think the series I and II have identical springs. The sport is something else anyway, it was modified outside of Japan using TTE parts. It is 99% likely that the sport springs are the same as the Eibach aftermarket lowering springs, they are certainly made by Eibach.

They do, funnily enough it's a Harrier bird of prey. I think its only on the front, the rear has a standard Toyota T

No it isn't just you. Most people replying have a series II which has a much better turning circle so they don't know your pain.

I don't think they do that, it doesn't mean the self levelling isn't working. Try aiming the headlights at a wall/garage door and get somebody to sit on the boot edge - the beam should remain level rather than go up (give it a moment to adjust). Typically when properly adjusted if you drive behind a similar sized car your headlight beams should cut off just above their number plate / just below the rear window. If this is wrong then the headlamps should be checked for physical alignment before looking at the self levelling system.

I'm sure for these drivers the reason is just a complete lack of awareness of everything around them however it does cost - the energy the lights are using isn't free. Lexus estimated that just by changing the rear lights on the RX from standard bulbs to LED saved up to 1% in fuel.

Typically there is chatter from the throttle body/motor during idle so this is probably normal. http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/57347-knocking-sound-from-the-throttle-body/ http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/74866-clicking-noise-from-throttle-body/

Interesting. Essentially the same engine but the FXE doesn't have direct injection and therefore also has a lower compression ratio. Seems the FSE can only be fitted longitudinal. The NX needs a transverse fitting engine.

I'm assuming the system is the same an in the IS. The buttons along the bottom of the screen, to the right of the menu button is one with a circle. I believe that either toggles the info screen on and off or brings up screen options.

The wheels aren't too dark, para999's black wheels are non standard.

do you have any warning lights?

you need to be carefully that you don't try and level against the tip when trying to open or close the gap otherwise you can damage it. Ideally you need to bend the outer electrode on the vertical section rather than the horizontal. Here is an NGK video: Standard feeler gauges and thin nosed pliers work, you don't need one of the special tools shown.

That is really another technique, and one that is a bit extreme. What Steve is referring to is accelerate up to your speed, come off the accelerator to make the petrol engine cut out (EV light comes on), or at least so the instant mpg gauge goes off the scale and then gently reapply the accelerator so that you maintain your speed, not slow down, which hopefully will be achieved just via electric power.

Worth making sure the coolant temperature sensor is operating correctly. If it is in an airlock the engine will keep the idle speed high. You do need to let the idle speed slowly adjust on the IS200. Drive the vehicle and at every junction come to a complete stop and let it rest for 20 seconds in neutral and repeat (many times) - the idle speed should slowly come down.

Sorry didn't spot you weren't in the UK. The UK 400h vehicles don't have DRLs. You could try disconnecting the wire but it would probably be the same outcome. Without the sidelight/parking light signal it wouldn't wash, so with the wire disconnected it will never work.

you need to let it idle in Park or neutral when at a junction rather than being left in drive otherwise the ECU won't try and adjust the idle speed. Every time you do this the idle speed should come down slightly.

only really by physical inspection and at that point you may as well just replace it. Here is a previous post I found: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/80066-thermostat-location-on-a-is-200-se-auto/

The NX 300h uses the same engine as the IS 300h, and the GS 300h - the 2AR-FSE. It is just detuned to hit a certain emissions target set by Lexus. The 8AR-FTS is the new 2 litre turbo engine that will be in the NX 200t next year. The 'T' in the engine code stands for Turbo

may be a stuck/damaged thermostat, allowing too much water to pass into the radiator and be cooled.

just let it idle for 10 minutes for the ECU to bring it down. Alternatively drive it, at each junction come to a complete stop and let it idle for 30 seconds and repeat - this will accelerate the learning.

You can make setting changes using Tech stream software. It would cost you £1,000s to legally obtain a copy. We don't allow the discussion of illegal activities on these forums (software piracy for example). Even with this software, ECU firmware updates are only available to Lexus dealers as it is downloaded from Toyota's servers rather than being in-built to the software. How long do you intend to keep the vehicle? A Lexus without full Lexus service history certainly has a lower resale value, especially with a hybrid as many people as still nervous about the technology. After three years you would only be able to extend the hybrid battery warranty by having it serviced at an authorised Lexus service centre.

what's the Alfa's turning circle like though? :P